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K

KCarter90

As the title suggests, i'm looking to wire a float switch to a relay.
Here's what i have & what i know...
I have the following:
*12v float switch
*240v Eheim pump
*12v lugged power supply adaptor (input240v/output 12v)
*Relay 12vdc

So basically, i need the float switch to switch the the power to the pump off when the water level in my aquarium gets too high. I understand the very basic concept of how it all works.
I know that 4 of the 14 pins will be used on the relay.
2 of them from the 'load'.. the 240v pump
& 2 of them from the 12v adaptor/float switch..

The wiring diagram is the basic layout (obviously the relay is different to the one i will be using)
I just need to know which wires go to which of the 14 pins.
In a nutshell;
*12v wire + goes to pin ....
*12v wire - goes to pin....
*240v wire from pump to relay goes to pin.... (i understand pump wire (live/brown) will be spliced)
*240v wire from relay to plug goes to pin....

So using the diagram, (i now know it's the brown wire not the blue that will be spliced), which of the wires go to which pins...

Apologies for my lack of knowledge but that is why i was hoping for some advice, maybe a diagram that could help me...

Many thanks,
Kyle.
 

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So long as the float switch closes on high level and then powers the relay (not ideal as the relay will be always on while the tank is full.
then this would be a possible arrangement.
Wiring A Relay: for a float switch Untitled-1 copy - EletriciansForums.net
Better to have the float switch closed on low level and open on high level and release the relay back to it's unpowered state, in which case swap the cable on terminal 4 to terminal 8.
 
What could happen if the relay is on during the time the tank is full?
Would this be a complete no go?

Having the float switch close on low level isn't an option for me. I could have done this in the sump return chamber however there will be another float switch in there which tops up the water when the return chamber level goes down.
Do you know a way around this?
Or would the original idea be okay? / could it be improved?

Thank you for your assistance
 
It just means the relay is taking power (a very small amount) all the time the tank is full and the coil is energised and will be slightly warm, it would tend to reduce the lifetime of the relay but should not really be a problem.
 
Okay, so I've wired up the live wire from the pump to the relay. But I'm slightly confused with the 12 v supply & float switch wiring...
So i have the negative 12v wire from power supply going into the relay & then a positive wire from the float switch going into the relay & that leaves me with 2 open wires, positive from power supply and negative from float switch?
I'm wondering do I just join these 2 wires together? It almost doesn't seem right...
Would it be possible for you to explain how I wire these up..

Many thanks.
 

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When a cable passes through a switch it does not change from positive to negative, you are only switching the positive on and off.
So: negative from power supply to relay coil.
Positive from power supply to one side of float switch.
positive from other side of float switch to relay coil.

Wiring diagram for reference.
Wiring A Relay: for a float switch Pump and relay on float switch - EletriciansForums.net
Please ensure you do know what you are doing and are never mixing 12V and 230V and not connecting anything whilst live.
Electricity can kill and being aware of how circuits work before starting is a good idea.
Good luck and be careful.
 
I believe i've wired this all up correct now...
Clearly it all needs concealing & i do have a project box that it will all be contained in so there will be no wires exposed.
just one thing though, when i wired the live wire to pin 4 & ran a test, the pump turned on when the water level rose..
So i switched the live wire from pin 4 to pin 8 & then it ran as i had hoped, so the pump turned off when the water level rose.
From what you can see, does this all seem okay to you? It all runs as it's supposed to & happily i didn't get electrocuted so that's a bonus!
 

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Seems OK, as you say you need it enclosed and also make sure there is strain relief on the cables so that they will not pull directly on the terminals.
If you can get some sleeving or extra insulation on the 12V cables this will help to ensure there is no cross over of power.

The change of terminal from 4 to 8 may mean I misinterpreted the relay diagram or that the float switch operates to open on rise.
 

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