Discuss Wiring and switch comfused. Adivice needed.. in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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spanner

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Hi.
Well I'm not normally on the elecrical forum, but need a little advise to where I'm going wrong.!

Could you please explain! If I'm going to take a live from a plug socket, does this have to go via

a fused unswitched spur outlet first?, and what would be the sufficient fuse size for this task for

low voltage downlights??

Can the wiring arrangement go in tandem to and from tranformer to transformer brown live/ blue

neutral/yg/earth
and then to a light switch??

Need your perfect advise would be much much appreciated:eek:mg_smile:
 
P

Plonker 3

I don't mean this too sound harsh, but if you do not understand what you are doing, then get a electrician in who will be able to do the job competently and safely. Meaning that there will be no danger to any one who will come into contact with what you are doing.
 

joe j

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I don't mean this too sound harsh, but if you do not understand what you are doing, then get a electrician in who will be able to do the job competently and safely. Meaning that there will be no danger to any one who will come into contact with what you are doing.
Not harsh enough. This sort of post (and person) should be filtered out.
 

darkwood

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Need alot more info--- yes you are required to fuse down, you need to explain which room its in, low voltage lighting used to be the choice of many but with GU10 (230v) having led and cfl options it now a lighting scheme i avoid as its future is looking grim and IMHO its a poor choice although others might argue different. Im not too sure of your wiring explanation it showing a lack of understanding and if this is the case you should really be using a professional electrician.

Just to put this in context if the room is either a bathroom or kitchen then it is notifiable and you shouldn't be undertaking this yourself with your knowledge, you are also making additions to a socket circuit and in doing so you have to fully test the circuit and bring it up to 17th edition to conform with regulations this will include rcd protection, checking the earthing system complies and all test results meet reg's to keep you and your family safe in the event of a fault.
 

darkwood

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Not harsh enough. This sort of post (and person) should be filtered out.
I would say your response is too harsh as this is a forum for the general public as well as electricians, the OP has asked a perfectly reasonable question of which ive answered with a reply that gives boths an explanation and a caution to the OP, simply expressing your views which may or may not be correct without any constructive input drags the very nature of what this forum is about down a level or two.
 
S

Swicade

Low voltage lighting is soooo last year....best off fitting LED fire rated unit's.

As stated depending on the location of the lights it might be notifiable.

Even better than that would be to get a sparks in and stick to plumbing....unsure if 'Defined Part P for plumbers' includes lighting circuits.
 
T

thomas1981

socket to transformer,to transformer,to switch? How is this going to work? This would mean you've taken a permanent live to the lights.
 

Amp David

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Spanner, welcome aboard but please spend a few quid on an electrician mate. You'll be better off in the long run


Welcome aboard, he's been a member since 2010!:confused5:

Must be quiet on the DIY front lately:1eye:
 
S

Swicade

I feel as though i should offer an apology for my previous post regarding 'Defined Part P'...was wrong for me to take out my frustration at an elderly lass down the road being ripped off by a local Plumber claiming to be Part P registered (when he's only defined part p) who changed her 16th edition consumer unit for a 17th edition (which was unnecessary) and charged £500 for the resulting birdsnest.

I'm in no way implying all plumbers do this and full apologies to Spanner.
 
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spanner

Active EF Member
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Thank you for all your magnificient cooperation chaps... We got it sorted , as I'd stated it was the way it was vocabbed to me.. I've been an sorted it since and the issue was, there were no 'return Live' back to the lighting switch.. And the reason was for the blow was the neutral wire and live were connected together down stream of installation Haa..ooh. Had to pullup plaster board after continuity testing to find it had all been wired in tandem from the 5amp fused spur aaaalllll the wat to the light switch which just simply meant NO LIVE SWITCHING..
 
G

Guest111

from August to nearly January! beggar me I'd have rewired a housing estate by now and on my own!
 

darkwood

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@spanner .... I'll re-iterate from my previous post in that their is alot more to simply connecting circuits up like install methods, fire safety, correct cable calcs... it honestly seems to me you have attempted this little project using a practical DIY book which give poor, dated and sometimes dangerous advice as has been discussed numerous times on here.
Your fault was a basic glaring mistake that should never have happened if cables were correctly identified and colour coded and with regards to the fault you are lucky this one operated a fuse/mcb or rcd as many other faults can exist that will put your family in danger and you may be unaware of both from a shock risk to fire risk.

Electrical reg's are just a starter you also have to comply with building regs and any ceiling you have fitted them into will still be required to maintain the existing fire protection i.e. Fire rated fitting or suitable hoods fitted.

Im just skimming the surface here but hope you start to appreciate the job you undertook 'may' fall far short of required and consider anon- related fire in the room with the new lighting can you assure us the ceiling will maintain protection from fire spread for approx 20mins if cut into plasterboard (as an example) .... IMHO i would sleep better knowing the fittings keep the fire at bay for 20mins to increase the chance of my family surviving and escaping.

Just something to ponder on when you consider those LV lamps and fitting without fire rating are one of the biggest fire risks in the house after the cooker.
 
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