Discuss Wiring diagram and ideas to resurrect dead Porsche 997.1 in the Auto Electrician Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hello Everyone, I have a very poorly 2007 997.1 RHD Manual Cab. In going through the emergency flat battery bonnet opening routine I accidentally put 24 volts into the loom via the pull out terminal in the fuse box. A costly lesson here to always reset 24/12 volt chargers back to 12v after using on 24 volt system. The car is almost electrically dead now. No ignition lights, no response to key in the ignition switch or to the remote button on the key. The only response is the automatic window drop/lift when opening and closing doors and drivers side electric window works. Apart from this all other electrical items are dead.
I have tested each and every fuse in the drivers side fuse box, all OK, and taken out and tested all the big fuses on the power distribution panel that is on the inside of the passenger side bulkhead, again all OK. There was no burning smell at the time of the incident and with the main fuses intact I am guessing something somewhere else has blown and stopped a high current scenario.
I prefer not to just tell a dealer to fix it so am attempting diagnosis and fix myself. I am hampered by lack of a wiring diagram and would appreciate borrowing one if there is a willing lender on the forum. Also very keen to receive your ideas, tips and any connections you can make that may be able to help.
I have looked at FAQs and Tech articles on the forum but not seen anything relevant, apologies if I missed anything.
Thanks in advance!
 
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plugsandsparks

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Power on these cars start at the battery, through the PDU, passenger footwell and from there go via the fusebox to each "blackbox" there are about 10 blackboxes scatterered around the vehicle. There is also the engine ECU to worry about. Sadly you will have to go through each and every one to determine which boxes have blown . I have diagrams for a similar car but the file is too big to send electronically. Where in the country are you ?
 
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Hello Plugs
Thanks very much for your reply. Agree with your analysis, lots of boxes to check! Diagrams would be a great help. I’m near Manchester, is this anywhere near you? Alternatively could the file be transferred through dropbox of google drive…what do you think?
Cheers
Matt
 
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The file is 0.633 G, will see if i can split off the wiring diagrams. I have a number of 997 blackboxes that i removed from a cayman, some will be a direct replacement and maybe of use. I am based south of chesterfield.
 
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Thanks Plugs, could we try the wetransfer method suggested by Andy? Could save time trying to carve up the file. I’m sure I will need one or more of your black boxes !!

Thanks Andy, appreciate your post.

Best rgds to both

Matt
 
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Sure, just let me know when its set up and i will upload file. Its now 35M just for the wiring diagrams. TBH, you are giving yourself a Level 10 challenge, here. It would be easier with something like Durametric, Porsche Diagnostic Store | Durametric Software Products for Sale - http://www.durametric.com/buyus.aspx
Even the instrument cluster is powered direct what they call "hot at all times" - i would start there first but you need to know that the Can Gateway is working otherwise it could look like they are all poorly.

I used to have Durametric Pro but sold it after removing all Porsche Electronics from my Cayman.

If i was trying to do what you have i would.

Get Durametric
Connect to OBD port
Ensure Can Gateway controller is working
Scan all blackboxes and see which ones respond
Replace one by one until you can see all boxes.
 
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Sure, just let me know when its set up and i will upload file. Its now 35M just for the wiring diagrams. TBH, you are giving yourself a Level 10 challenge, here. It would be easier with something like Durametric, Porsche Diagnostic Store | Durametric Software Products for Sale - http://www.durametric.com/buyus.aspx
Even the instrument cluster is powered direct what they call "hot at all times" - i would start there first but you need to know that the Can Gateway is working otherwise it could look like they are all poorly.

I used to have Durametric Pro but sold it after removing all Porsche Electronics from my Cayman.

If i was trying to do what you have i would.

Get Durametric
Connect to OBD port
Ensure Can Gateway controller is working
Scan all blackboxes and see which ones respond
Replace one by one until you can see all boxes.
Right I'll get wetransfer set up and let you know.
Agree it's a bit of a challenge but despite messing up big time in causing the problem I do have a bit of electrical/electronic aptitude and have the time to spend on it having just retired. Input from people like yourself is invaluable because as you probably know Porsche and their dealers guard all info likely to assist DIYers jealously.
I had some help today from a local Auto Electrician, he's not an expert in CAN bus so we did some basic stuff and he found we are not getting 12v to the footwell fusebox even though the power distribution board and fuses are all OK. A few weeks ago I saw a matched ignition keyswitch, key, transponder control module and ECU for sale on Ebay and for the £170 asked thought I should just buy it. We put all those units into place today and not a lot happened except the 'new' key will now enter and exit the ignition key hole, i.e. it is not trapped as the original one was after the dose of 24v. The guy thought we should try a body control unit next. He thought there must be some logic and relay control over powering up the fusebox and that we are missing that at the least. I'm interested to know your view and also whether you know which used control modules have to be a 'matched' set from a single donor vehicle, and which can just be bought and coded to this car. Can the durametric do some or all of the coding, and what coding if any must be done by dealer.
Thanks,
Matt



The key has been trapped in the ignition since it happened (I have released it a coupl of times with the little manual latch).
 
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Right I'll get wetransfer set up and let you know.
Agree it's a bit of a challenge but despite messing up big time in causing the problem I do have a bit of electrical/electronic aptitude and have the time to spend on it having just retired. Input from people like yourself is invaluable because as you probably know Porsche and their dealers guard all info likely to assist DIYers jealously.
I had some help today from a local Auto Electrician, he's not an expert in CAN bus so we did some basic stuff and he found we are not getting 12v to the footwell fusebox even though the power distribution board and fuses are all OK. A few weeks ago I saw a matched ignition keyswitch, key, transponder control module and ECU for sale on Ebay and for the £170 asked thought I should just buy it. We put all those units into place today and not a lot happened except the 'new' key will now enter and exit the ignition key hole, i.e. it is not trapped as the original one was after the dose of 24v. The guy thought we should try a body control unit next. He thought there must be some logic and relay control over powering up the fusebox and that we are missing that at the least. I'm interested to know your view and also whether you know which used control modules have to be a 'matched' set from a single donor vehicle, and which can just be bought and coded to this car. Can the durametric do some or all of the coding, and what coding if any must be done by dealer.
Thanks,
Matt



The key has been trapped in the ignition since it happened (I have released it a coupl of times with the little manual latch).
Forgot to mention we hooked up this guys diagnostic kit to the OBD socket. I didn't note what make his kit is, probably not a durametric. He couldn't 'see' any signal from any of the modules.
 
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There are multiple connections from the PDU passenger side just above where your toes would be to the fusebox , drivers side just right of where your right leg would be. If you are not getting 12V at that fusebox , its a good place to start BUT not all fuses are "hot all time" some only become hot following activation of blackbox controllers. As mentioned i would not do it that way, there are many blind alleys lurking which will make diagnosing almost impossible. BTW there are at least 3 separate CAn Buses, hence the Gateway which is very important , ODB port is only on one bus.
 
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Cannot remember which are coded, durametric can code "options" but not vehicle - Thats Porsche :-(
Sure, just let me know when its set up and i will upload file. Its now 35M just for the wiring diagrams. TBH, you are giving yourself a Level 10 challenge, here. It would be easier with something like Durametric, Porsche Diagnostic Store | Durametric Software Products for Sale - http://www.durametric.com/buyus.aspx
Even the instrument cluster is powered direct what they call "hot at all times" - i would start there first but you need to know that the Can Gateway is working otherwise it could look like they are all poorly.

I used to have Durametric Pro but sold it after removing all Porsche Electronics from my Cayman.

If i was trying to do what you have i would.

Get Durametric
Connect to OBD port
Ensure Can Gateway controller is working
Scan all blackboxes and see which ones respond
Replace one by one until you can see all boxes.
I'd love to get a copy of those diagrams. I have electrical issues with my 997 courtesy of the previous owner, although nit as bad as Wookie's.
 
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There are multiple connections from the PDU passenger side just above where your toes would be to the fusebox , drivers side just right of where your right leg would be. If you are not getting 12V at that fusebox , its a good place to start BUT not all fuses are "hot all time" some only become hot following activation of blackbox controllers. As mentioned i would not do it that way, there are many blind alleys lurking which will make diagnosing almost impossible. BTW there are at least 3 separate CAn Buses, hence the Gateway which is very important , ODB port is only on one bus.
Hi Plugs,

Thanks again for your replies and the wiring diag. You are right about the level 10 challenge 😬

I found a guy based in Slovakia who has a PIWIS and knows how to use it ! He supplied me with a set of used control modules coded to my VIN and with the matching security codes needed to get the thing started. He advised that you need ECU, PASM, Steering Lock and Keys all matched and he coded and supplied them plus another ignition switch and gateway. The steering lock was a bit of a pig, I needed to dismantle lower dash panels to access it, and getting to the ECU with inoperative and closed soft top was also tricky, however once all fitted the car ‘woke up’ and started OK. I switched the original key blades into the supplied key fobs so they will operate the door lock and glove box lock OK.

To my delight the instrument cluster is working but I still have some non-trivial issues to resolve. I’m getting the following warning text messages displayed on the instrument cluster
Battery/Generator, PSM Failure, Soft Top not in position (to be expected), rear lid not closed (to be expected), System Fault Visit Workshop.
In addition there are warning lights lit on the instrument display for
Air bags, ABS.
Also the headlights are immediately on full at start up and do not respond to the light switch, and the front radiator cooling fans come on immediately at full blast, which doesn’t seem right to me when car is first started and idling.
The buttons for seat heating, rear window heater, PSM and rear spoiler lift/lower are inoperative.
Climate control is OK
Electric door windows and mirrors are OK
Just realised I haven’t checked the brake lights.

My contact was initially most concerned about the battery/generator warning and suggested first a new regulator which made no difference and then said it was possible the old regulator (if it had failed due to the overvoltage) may have damaged the replacement ECU he had sent. That was a bad moment! However he suggested I could get another ECU with same bosch part number (in addition to same porsche part number) and take the Flash and EEPROM chips out of the one he supplied and put them into this second replacement ECU. So having learned to hot air solder I did this and the second replacement ECU behaved exactly same as first replacement, car starts etc. but behaviour and error messages are unchanged. Finally I put in a full replacement decent used alternator, but again the Battery/Generator warning message remains. I should say that the battery is new and fully charged.

Feeding this all back to my contact he now suggests a replacement BCM but I think this will need coding to the car. if coding is necessary I’m not sure it can be done ‘off vehicle‘ so this is my next learning opportunity (to put it positively).

Any comments you or others may have will be gratefully received.

Best,

Matt
 
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Hi Matt, give me a couple of days and will try and work out what common component could cause all these errors. Worried about the CAN Buses at the moment as if messages are not getting through, you will see this type of thing, even though each component is working. e.g. the fans do need a Can message to the local controller otherwise they default to always on.
 
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👍 thanks Plugs, incidentally I said ‘PASM’ above when I meant ‘Transponder Module’
Cheers,
 
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Had a quick look and there is only one common component and its the CAN gateway. However its possible that a number of controllers are also poorly. The Battery / gen one should be an easy fix.

e.g. Battery voltage is picked up by engine ECU, then its is transmitted over Can "Drive" to the Gateway which then sends the message over to Can "Instrument" which is then read by the instrument cluster. So for this to work you need: Working Alternator, ECU, Gateway and Instrument Cluster.

The Front controller that does the headlights and Fans amongst other things is on a different Can; Can "Comfort" this relies on messages from the engine ECU on Can "Drive" to know when to come on, e.g. when engine is hot etc.

Unless these CAN messages are getting through normal service will not be resumed.
 
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Had a quick look and there is only one common component and its the CAN gateway. However its possible that a number of controllers are also poorly. The Battery / gen one should be an easy fix.

e.g. Battery voltage is picked up by engine ECU, then its is transmitted over Can "Drive" to the Gateway which then sends the message over to Can "Instrument" which is then read by the instrument cluster. So for this to work you need: Working Alternator, ECU, Gateway and Instrument Cluster.

The Front controller that does the headlights and Fans amongst other things is on a different Can; Can "Comfort" this relies on messages from the engine ECU on Can "Drive" to know when to come on, e.g. when engine is hot etc.

Unless these CAN messages are getting through normal service will not be resumed.
Thanks for this, it all makes sense! A recent development in the quest is that I’ve found a local indy who has a PIWIS and who is happy to come round to my place and run a diagnostic. Possibly this week, TBA. I will keep you posted and thanks again for your interest and help.
Cheers,
Matt
 

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