Discuss Wiring for new 16 Amp oven in the Electrical Appliances Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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It is not something you can say “it’s only a little over”
The limit is 13A, not 13.2A not 13.05A
13A IS THE MAXIMUM.
End of discussion.
I completely agree with you, as I said in my original post I had no intention of connecting to a 3 pin plug. I fully appreciate that the regs and max current ratings are there purely for safety and under no circumstances should they be exceeded.
I was merely asking to satisfy my own curiosity and I apologise for any confusion this has caused.
 
Could be way off the mark here.... if the existing socket was off a RFC then the MCB would be rated at 32A.
Would it be possible / acceptable for an electrician to remove the existing socket and fit a cooker control unit, providing the cable to the oven is suitably sized, say 6mm?
 
Yes, you are way off the mark. It is not permitted to connect loads greater than 13A to a ring final.
All connections to ring final circuits must have a fuse of no more than 13A (usually a fused BS1361 plug or an FCU).

In fact, the guidance is that fixed loads of more that 2KW should be on their own dedicated circuit.
 
Yes, you are way off the mark. It is not permitted to connect loads greater than 13A to a ring final.
All connections to ring final circuits must have a fuse of no more than 13A (usually a fused BS1361 plug or an FCU).

In fact, the guidance is that fixed loads of more that 2KW should be on their own dedicated circuit.
I didn’t think it would be as simple as that somehow :sweatsmile: so I either need to buy an oven under 2.9kW that has a plug fitted or get a sparky to run a new cable from the CU with a 16Amp MCB?
 
I didn’t think it would be as simple as that somehow :sweatsmile: so I either need to buy an oven under 2.9kW that has a plug fitted or get a sparky to run a new cable from the CU with a 16Amp MCB?
Hi - the common approach for providing power to electric cooking appliances is by their own circuit. While the design can vary, its often a 6mm cable with a 32A overload protective device. The actual appliance connection method used is then varied to suit the appliance.
Are you saying you have no cooker circuit?
 
Could be way off the mark here.... if the existing socket was off a RFC then the MCB would be rated at 32A.
Would it be possible / acceptable for an electrician to remove the existing socket and fit a cooker control unit, providing the cable to the oven is suitably sized, say 6mm?
NO
 
Hi - the common approach for providing power to electric cooking appliances is by their own circuit. While the design can vary, its often a 6mm cable with a 32A overload protective device. The actual appliance connection method used is then varied to suit the appliance.
Are you saying you have no cooker circuit?
I do have a cooker circuit but as far as know that’s for the electric hob on the other side of the room.
So it could be that the socket isn’t part of the RFC but is actually fed from its own 32A MCB?

If that was the case would it be acceptable /conforming to remove the socket and fit a JB/cooker connection unit with some 6mm T&E to the oven?
 
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Hi - in that case I think you need an Electrician and a new circuit to suit. Someone here maybe able to help if you post up your locale :) .
 
Hi - in that case I think you need an Electrician and a new circuit to suit. Someone here maybe able to help if you post up your locale :) .
Thanks Wilko, think I may just swap the oven for one under 3kW that can be plugged in, sounds less messy. I have solid floors so cables can’t be run underneath downstairs floorboards.

If the existing socket is supplied from its own circuit on 32A MCB, would an electrician just remove the socket and fit a cooker control unit with some 6mm T&E to the oven?

Thanks again
 
They might well do that but you need someone to actually come and look before quoting.
 
Also at 240+ volts the actual current and power will be higher than that stated for sure 230 volts

This assumes the stated power rating isn't the 240V rating. Most heating elements are still built to the exact same spec as before this mythical voltage change so the published ratings of a lot of appliances are still the 240V ratings.
Electric showers are a good example, they usually have a nice big power rating on the box with small print stating the lower, less attractive, 230V rating.
 
Thank you everyone for your replies and patience, it is appreciated.

Would I be right in thinking this is not a situation whereby a competent electrician would apply diversity?

Thanks again
Beeg
 
Just had a quick look at the current v time graphs and apparently a 13A fuse can have 20A through it and not blow :eek:
but the Titanic could have 20 holes in it and not sink, but it did.
 
Thank you everyone for your replies and patience, it is appreciated.

Would I be right in thinking this is not a situation whereby a competent electrician would apply diversity?

Thanks again
Beeg
my thoughts. stick iton a 13A plug. get a camp meter and see how much you can get the current up to by switching everything on. bear in mind the initial current will be higher than once it's started cycling on stats.
 
my thoughts. stick iton a 13A plug. get a camp meter and see how much you can get the current up to by switching everything on. bear in mind the initial current will be higher than once it's started cycling on stats.
I understand the theory behind this, however would it not be a contravention of the regs as it is connecting something with a stated max load above 13amps to a 13amp socket/ring final circuit?
 

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