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Hello folks
I am attempting to wire some new Down-lights in my new house , I have wired a few sets up before in previous home however the cables going into my ceiling rose seem to be missing live cables and not like the standard Twin & earth i have connected before . I can see that there is a switch wire however I am confused to how and why it is connected like this . I am not a qualified sparky as you have probably guessed 😀so was hopping someone could shed some light on this for me . No pun intended . See pic attached.
Wiring lights neutral EDD4996D-A177-438E-AC34-B92D596F6B39 - EletriciansForums.net
 
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While it is unusual, you do get "one and earth" cable for linking lights up which is what you seem to have here. The idea is you don't always need to run both L & N everywhere so you can save on copper by just running the bit you need.

However, it is rare to see (maybe more common in NI) and often simply not worth the cost of carrying both T&E as well for the rest of the job (and 3&E for two-way switching), etc!

Basically you should retain the same connections when the new lights go in. Here the 1&E is feeding the L of the light (but never assume it is the line, it might be neutral, but for most lamps it is not important) but the N of the light has two connected, presumably one is neutral back to the CU (consumer unit / fuse box) and the other is onwards to another light somewhere. So both need to be joined and to N of the new light.

If your new lights do not have suitable terminals to take two cables then you can join the existing cables using a suitable small Wagobox and some 3-way Wago terminals and then a short link of additional 1mm cable to the light. Don't have joints taped up or left open!

DIY places like Toolstation and Screwfix sell short lengths of 1mm T&E which can be used as needed for modifying light circuits (1mm only for lights though, not power which is minimum 1.5mm for never fully explained reasons in the wiring regulations) as well as suitable junction boxes.
 
There are several ways in which circuits can be installed and often depends on the spec and/or the sparky doing the work.
If looping off this for your recessed lights, you have all you need, a switched live, neutral and earth (cpc) conductors
 
While it is unusual, you do get "one and earth" cable for linking lights up which is what you seem to have here. The idea is you don't always need to run both L & N everywhere so you can save on copper by just running the bit you need.

However, it is rare to see (maybe more common in NI) and often simply not worth the cost of carrying both T&E as well for the rest of the job (and 3&E for two-way switching), etc!

Basically you should retain the same connections when the new lights go in. Here the 1&E is feeding the L of the light (but never assume it is the line, it might be neutral, but for most lamps it is not important) but the N of the light has two connected, presumably one is neutral back to the CU (consumer unit / fuse box) and the other is onwards to another light somewhere. So both need to be joined and to N of the new light.

If your new lights do not have suitable terminals to take two cables then you can join the existing cables using a suitable small Wagobox and some 3-way Wago terminals and then a short link of additional 1mm cable to the light. Don't have joints taped up or left open!

DIY places like Toolstation and Screwfix sell short lengths of 1mm T&E which can be used as needed for modifying light circuits (1mm only for lights though, not power which is minimum 1.5mm for never fully explained reasons in the wiring regulations) as well as suitable junction boxes.
Cheers mate that has helped a lot 👍🏻👍🏻
 

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