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payney

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hi there guys just a quick one, i have to wire a long corridor with muiltple pirs controling one set of lights in singles using trunking and conduit. Can anyone explain the best way of wiring as im fairly new to the trade and have never wired more than one pir......
 
hi there guys just a quick one, i have to wire a long corridor with muiltple pirs controling one set of lights in singles using trunking and conduit. Can anyone explain the best way of wiring as im fairly new to the trade and have never wired more than one pir......
your switched lives,neutrals and earths,can be taken to fittings and pirs,permenant lives also reqd at your pirs.You have to be carefull with your selection of pirs if you are using fluorescent lights as not all are compatable.Depending on the situation it can sometimes be easier to keep wiring to switches(pirs) totally separate and wire thru a contactor.This solution could be usefull if you had to install more lights than one circuit could handle,and then all you would be switching with your pirs would be the coil of your contactors.
 
P

payney

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  • #4
thanks for your help but its not really helped any, i understand the contactor way its not really suitable in this situation. There are 4 pirs all capable of switching the load which are low energy downlights 1*26w they will be wired into emergency gregs (clicks) so do i take my feed and neutral to my first pir and then link the rest out ,feed, sw and neutral and then come back and send the sw and neutrals to all my lights. Hope im not over conplicating things.:confused::confused::confused::confused:
 
thanks for your help but its not really helped any, i understand the contactor way its not really suitable in this situation. There are 4 pirs all capable of switching the load which are low energy downlights 1*26w they will be wired into emergency gregs (clicks) so do i take my feed and neutral to my first pir and then link the rest out ,feed, sw and neutral and then come back and send the sw and neutrals to all my lights. Hope im not over conplicating things.:confused::confused::confused::confused:
no you,can drop off your switchwire and neutral to your clik as you go along.they will be a common connection throughout. But you might find it less of a brain strain to simply have a live,sw live,N+E at all your points.This would then also give you the option of being able to use any point as an emergency fitting if required,and any point can then be used for a pir or light fitting. Hopefully you can make sense of this
 
P

payney

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  • #6
does this mean if any one of the four pirs are activated all the lights will come on. One more thing does it matter which i wire to first ie a light or pir...
 

Had8Lives

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Arms
There's no particular right or wrong way of wiring this. Personally for safety's sake, I would wire this using a contactor & make sure there is a clearly marked isolator on at least the switched live. Thing is you'll have multiple automated switches controlling one switch wire which could be potentially dangerous. By this I mean if someone with minimal electrical knowledge was relying (somewhat stupidly I know) on the PIR not triggering one of the lights while they changed a tube and someone else walked down the corridor they could get a shock. Just a thought.
 
P

payney

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #8
i understand what your saying and can half agree with your point, but i am a big beliver in anything can be dangerous in the wrong hands and all electrical items are potentially deadly. This is why im wiring each light and pir to its each individual isolation point (click). Saying that it would be easier wiring it in your suggested manor but it has been specified in the spec for it to be done as the origanal question states.
 
does this mean if any one of the four pirs are activated all the lights will come on. One more thing does it matter which i wire to first ie a light or pir...
If you do as I suggested,all lights come on together,activation from any sensor,and if you wire in the 4wire method as I would recomend,you just wire from board L,N,E, into first point(it doesn't matter-pir OR light click),then 4 wires out to every point.This will give you a permenant live,switched live,neutral,and earth at every klik rose.You then use what you need from the flex ,switched live,or perm live and switched live.If you are useing ready made up 4core flexes which sometimes come with the plug and socket,don't forget to safely terminate the unused permenant live,if not required.
I'm surprised you havn't mentioned emergency lighting,as most long corridors would be on an escape route and would require this.
Another tip to save confusion when you are wireing your 2 single browns is to use a 2.5 for one of them (say switched live)so you can tell them apart at a glance.
 
P

payney

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #10
thanks for your help and there are emergencies, im going to make every greg an emergency one. I actually sat and looked at the drawing today and realised its actually very simple ha ha.
 
S

SEC-Tom

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  • #11
We've been doing the landlords in the past few weeks which have included PIRs and EM lights. It confused me completely and I didn't have a clue what my colleague had done and how it was going to work but after sitting down and drawing it all out it came to just like that. Always best to sit and have a look it's probably more simple than it seems at first glance.
 
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samjardine

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #12
Can anyone tell me if a security light with a built in PIR has a maximum height for fitting. PIR has max 12 mt range.
I am wondering if I should go for an independent PIR and separate light
 
M

mark_

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #13
Check the instructions first they will all vary. What height did you want to mount it?
 

telectrix

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Mentor
Arms
Esteemed
Can anyone tell me if a security light with a built in PIR has a maximum height for fitting. PIR has max 12 mt range.
I am wondering if I should go for an independent PIR and separate light
most advise mounting at around 10ft. this is not always practicable. i've seen them fitted at 20ft. the only thing there is that you will lose some of the range,as the distance down to ground level is greater.
 

i=p/u

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Arms
and if its a cheap one , it says 2.5m mounting height and 12m range, but you may forget about the 12m range so i would go separate light and pir
 
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samjardine

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #16
I am looking at lights from b&q which have PIRs attached they have a 12.5 metre range. I was thinking of trying them and if not that good coverage adding an extra PIR.
Can anyone recommend a good PIR that has a good range. 180 degree arc of cover
 

i=p/u

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Arms
timeguard is the ones i pick up along me waysss in me old kit bag it goesssssssssssssssssssssss with all me troublessssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss
 
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samjardine

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #18
I have a light with a built in pir, the connection block in the light has Neutral blue, earth green /yellow, live brown and red live to light.
If I wire the power through the separate pir first which has a connection block with neutral blue, live brown and live red to light
do I connect the red live wire to the red light wire on the built in light pir for both pirs to work?
 
K

Knobhead

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #19
You’ve bought it now:

Read the instructions!
 
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