Discuss Wiring up a Woodworking shop in a rental property in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi All!! I'm new to the forum and seeking some specific advice.

Background:While I do understand and have some limited experience with running wire, wiring outlets and panel hookups in basic residential wiring, I need advice on specific challenge. I live in a rental that has garage wall outlets on 14 AWG with a 120V/15A breaker (Lights and wall outlets on separate breakers).

I am in the process of setting up a woodworking shop in the garage. I want to use a 2HP Hybrid tablesaw that is prewired to 230V but can be wired to 115V with kit (that includes a 20A breaker..inside the saw panel?). Saw has the following criteria...
Power requirements: 115V or 230V, Single-Phase, 60Hz
Full-Load current rating: 16A at 115V, 8A at 230V
Minimum circuit size: 20A at 115V, 15A at 230V
Powercord gauge: 14 AWG

Question: I am in a rental and cannot change/upgrade the internal wiring to 12AWG in order to just "Change the breaker to 20A". I do have room for additional breakers in my panel. Can I insert 15A /230V breaker (double pole 15A??) and just move the wires from the 15A/115V directly to the 15A / 230V wiring the white wire to top and black to bottom poles? As I understand it, this will only pull 8A and thus allow me to keep using the existing14AWG.
[automerge]1573515217[/automerge]
Hi All!! I'm new to the forum and seeking some specific advice.

Background:While I do understand and have some limited experience with running wire, wiring outlets and panel hookups in basic residential wiring, I need advice on specific challenge. I live in a rental that has garage wall outlets on 14 AWG with a 120V/15A breaker (Lights and wall outlets on separate breakers).

I am in the process of setting up a woodworking shop in the garage. I want to use a 2HP Hybrid tablesaw that is prewired to 230V but can be wired to 115V with kit (that includes a 20A breaker..inside the saw panel?). Saw has the following criteria...
Power requirements: 115V or 230V, Single-Phase, 60Hz
Full-Load current rating: 16A at 115V, 8A at 230V
Minimum circuit size: 20A at 115V, 15A at 230V
Powercord gauge: 14 AWG

Question: I am in a rental and cannot change/upgrade the internal wiring to 12AWG in order to just "Change the breaker to 20A". I do have room for additional breakers in my panel. Can I insert 15A /230V breaker (double pole 15A??) and just move the wires from the 15A/115V directly to the 15A / 230V wiring the white wire to top and black to bottom poles? As I understand it, this will only pull 8A and thus allow me to keep using the existing14AWG.
 
Hi All!! I'm new to the forum and seeking some specific advice.

Background:While I do understand and have some limited experience with running wire, wiring outlets and panel hookups in basic residential wiring, I need advice on specific challenge. I live in a rental that has garage wall outlets on 14 AWG with a 120V/15A breaker (Lights and wall outlets on separate breakers).

I am in the process of setting up a woodworking shop in the garage. I want to use a 2HP Hybrid tablesaw that is prewired to 230V but can be wired to 115V with kit (that includes a 20A breaker..inside the saw panel?). Saw has the following criteria...
Power requirements: 115V or 230V, Single-Phase, 60Hz
Full-Load current rating: 16A at 115V, 8A at 230V
Minimum circuit size: 20A at 115V, 15A at 230V
Powercord gauge: 14 AWG

Question: I am in a rental and cannot change/upgrade the internal wiring to 12AWG in order to just "Change the breaker to 20A". I do have room for additional breakers in my panel. Can I insert 15A /230V breaker (double pole 15A??) and just move the wires from the 15A/115V directly to the 15A / 230V wiring the white wire to top and black to bottom poles? As I understand it, this will only pull 8A and thus allow me to keep using the existing14AWG.
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@jadelong welcome to the forum first off that table saw needs to have to be a dedicated circuit. Yes you can add a 15 amp double pole breaker because you stated the FLC or full load current is 16 amps at 120vac, so your best bet is changing it over to 240vac but check the saw and make sure it’s wired for 240vac since it’s a multi tap saw. Since it’s in a garage it has to be GFCI. Yes on moving the white wire to the double pole breaker just tape it up to identify that it’s being used for a hot wire Good luck
 
@jadelong welcome to the forum first off that table saw needs to have to be a dedicated circuit. Yes you can add a 15 amp double pole breaker because you stated the FLC or full load current is 16 amps at 120vac, so your best bet is changing it over to 240vac but check the saw and make sure it’s wired for 240vac since it’s a multi tap saw. Since it’s in a garage it has to be GFCI. Yes on moving the white wire to the double pole breaker just tape it up to identify that it’s being used for a hot wire Good luck
When you move them 2 wires the black and white to the double pole breaker will there still be other outlets on that circuit. If so it’s not going to work and will burn up anything plugged it them since you changed the wires to 240vac will be on the other outlets. It will have to be a new circuit by itself.
 
In order to abide to code and use the 15A Two Pole 240V breaker for the saw, all loads (in your case, every receptacle) in this particular circuit need to be eliminated to create a direct line or what is properly referred to as a 'dedicated ciruit' from the 240V source (the panel) to the 2HP (1492W) motor via outlet and cord. 1492W / 240V = 6.21A. Once the receptacles along with their pigtails are removed from each junction box, identify that the white conductors inside each box are now 'hot' by applying black or red tape; this is also done at the panel to the white conductor of this circuit. The receptacle which is to be used for the saw and is now the only device on the circuit has to be GFCI and rated for 240V with the old neutral inside the box now acting as an identified (black or red tape) 'hot' conductor.

Consult a licensed Electrician in your area and do not attempt to do this on your own.
 
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Thanks @Zeus88 and @Megawatt for the replies. Luckily, yes, this is the only outlet on the circuit. So it would stand to reason this would be a dedicated circuit. Assuming I go this route, While this would be limiting given my current circumstances, it would give me one other outlet in the garage on another breaker. But then again, I only need to run one tool at a time. Thanks all!
 
You're welcome. Also, I do not recall ever seeing a GFCI 240V 15A Receptacle, so I think a regular 240V 15A Receptacle (with two horizontal slots on the face) will suffice in this situation.
 
Thanks @Zeus88 and @Megawatt for the replies. Luckily, yes, this is the only outlet on the circuit. So it would stand to reason this would be a dedicated circuit. Assuming I go this route, While this would be limiting given my current circumstances, it would give me one other outlet in the garage on another breaker. But then again, I only need to run one tool at a time. Thanks all!
In order to abide to code and use the 15A Two Pole 240V breaker for the saw, all loads (in your case, every receptacle) in this particular circuit need to be eliminated to create a direct line or what is properly referred to as a 'dedicated ciruit' from the 240V source (the panel) to the 2HP (1492W) motor via outlet and cord. 1492W / 240V = 6.21A. Once the receptacles along with their pigtails are removed from each junction box, identify that the white conductors inside each box are now 'hot' by applying black or red tape; this is also done at the panel to the white conductor of this circuit. The receptacle which is to be used for the saw and is now the only device on the circuit has to be GFCI and rated for 240V with the old neutral inside the box now acting as an identified (black or red tape) 'hot' conductor.

Consult a licensed Electrician in your area and do not attempt to do this on your own.
you are welcome and good luck
 
You're welcome. Also, I do not recall ever seeing a GFCI 240V 15A Receptacle, so I think a regular 240V 15A Receptacle (with two horizontal slots on the face) will suffice in this situation.
@zeuss88 I was referring to a breaker not a receptacle. I guess I should have said that
 
I am located in Canada, and our code is similar to the US, and the terminology is identical. The code slightly varies from province to province here and from state to state in the US because of weather conditions, etc. The first response by Megewatt stated that all receptacles in garages have to be GFCI protected; I made the same recommendation for you in my first post, assuming this is American code. Here in Canada, garage receptacles do not have to be GFCI. In your case, you will need a 240V rated 15A receptacle for the table saw to plug into, as far as I know this particular type of receptacle does not come in GFCI form, thus it is acceptable to use the regular model. GFCI receptacles are the ones with the test and reset buttons on them. This is what my second comment was alluding to.
 
I am located in Canada, and our code is similar to the US, and the terminology is identical. The code slightly varies from province to province here and from state to state in the US because of weather conditions, etc. The first response by Megewatt stated that all receptacles in garages have to be GFCI protected; I made the same recommendation for you in my first post, assuming this is American code. Here in Canada, garage receptacles do not have to be GFCI. In your case, you will need a 240V rated 15A receptacle for the table saw to plug into, as far as I know this particular type of receptacle does not come in GFCI form, thus it is acceptable to use the regular model. GFCI receptacles are the ones with the test and reset buttons on them. This is what my second comment was alluding to.
Zeus88 sorry for the misinterpretation I was referring to a breaker, I know that they don’t make 240vac receptacles and got to reading the NEC it being a piece of equipment it does not require GFCI protection
 

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