wrong wiring question

[DIY_level_2]

Hi All,
I'm new here. I searched for existing answers to this question but did not find an answer.
I was doing some sound-proofing DIY in a one room at home and pulled-in some cable to replace old 1960's cable.
Now that I've sealed all the walls and floor and turned my attention to wiring in the sockets I discovered that I've pulled-in the wrong cable - 5 core 0.75mm heating cable

I pulled-in the above 5-core 0.75 heating cable. I thought it was the type 3-core one below!

Since this is for my own house and all the floors, walls are now sealed and I cannot pull the old wires out - I've tried - am I screwed?
I was thinking that since there is just one (bedroom) socket about 5m from the main ring, I could get away with it. What do you knowledgeable people think?

 

[MJPD29]

It will need replaced. That also appears to be flex which I wouldn't be using for fixed wiring such as sockets.

It also says your from Manchester but your flag is Ireland. If you are doing this work in the free state you will need to be appropriately qualified to do so.

 

[Risteard]

It also says your from Manchester but your flag is Ireland.

I honestly feel that the inclusion of flags on this forum has created far more confusion than clarity, especially as many are logged in through VPNs.

 

[davesparks]

Neither of the cables in the picture are correct for the job.

 

[Markyd]

In the words of the pop band Orange Juice...Rip it out and start again

 

[pc1966]

I was thinking that since there is just one (bedroom) socket about 5m from the main ring, I could get away with it. What do you knowledgeable people think?

The short answer is no way should you use the 0.75mm cable

The minimum allowed for power wiring is 1.5mm CSA as a single conductor protected by a 13A fused connection unit. Without a proper ring you would also have to drop the breaker rating to no more than 20A to protect what would be a 2.5mm radial circuit.

Without wanting to come across as provocative, can I ask why you chose to use round flexible cable instead of the normal '6242Y' twin & earth type?

T&E is generally cheaper (if of similar quality) and the thicker strands of copper are more reliable for screw connections. If I use thin stranded flexible wire (such as "tri-rated switchgear") then I normally fit crimp ferrules so the screws have something solid to bite on.

 

[telectrix]

if this is just to feed 1 socket, do without it.

 

[pc1966]

Also please tell us you have some plan for proper testing?

If, as I suspect, you don't have any of the typical sparks' test kit then you can hire a multi-function tester for well under £100/week, for example:

ESS Safeforce | Add or update basket items

ESS has become one of the leading safety, survey, communications & test & measurement equipment companies in the UK. Contact us here today!

www.ess-safeforce.com

That gives you enough time to learn how to use it for basic stuff. Also you might want to get a copy of some book on testing, the usual point of reference are the IET's books, simply search for "IET guidance note 3" as a start.

 

[Dustydazzler]

hmmmm

could you not use the flex as a draw wire and pull in some 2.5

 

[rapparee]

I noticed on the 2.5mm flex you have written 34A. This cable is not fit for 34 Amps

It will be 20A or 32A if wired in a ring. But to be honest it's not really the right cable.

 

[DIY_level_2]

The short answer is no way should you use the 0.75mm cable

The minimum allowed for power wiring is 1.5mm CSA as a single conductor protected by a 13A fused connection unit. Without a proper ring you would also have to drop the breaker rating to no more than 20A to protect what would be a 2.5mm radial circuit.

I'm replacing an old spur socket taken from the ring

Without wanting to come across as provocative, can I ask why you chose to use round flexible cable instead of the normal '6242Y' twin & earth type?

Thanks for the reply. I thought it might make it easier to use the existing round cable as a draw-string for the new. As it is being pulled through holes in joists, I thought the 6242Y would kink easier and get stuck.
[automerge]1584651433[/automerge]

I noticed on the 2.5mm flex you have written 34A. This cable is not fit for 34 Amps

It will be 20A or 32A if wired in a ring. But to be honest it's not really the right cable.

The part number is 3-core 2.5mm Dikkan H05vv-f. The manufacturers specs say 34A and 300/500V
[automerge]1584651665[/automerge]

It will need replaced. That also appears to be flex which I wouldn't be using for fixed wiring such as sockets.

It also says your from Manchester but your flag is Ireland. If you are doing this work in the free state you will need to be appropriately qualified to do so.

Correct on part one - Internet obfuscation is the rule!, wrong on part two. It's neither controller nor restricted works so no certificate needs to be issued.
[automerge]1584652439[/automerge]

Also please tell us you have some plan for proper testing?

If, as I suspect, you don't have any of the typical sparks' test kit then you can hire a multi-function tester for well under £100/week, for example:

ESS Safeforce | Add or update basket items

ESS has become one of the leading safety, survey, communications & test & measurement equipment companies in the UK. Contact us here today!

www.ess-safeforce.com

That gives you enough time to learn how to use it for basic stuff. Also you might want to get a copy of some book on testing, the usual point of reference are the IET's books, simply search for "IET guidance note 3" as a start.

Thanks, I will read those testing guidelines as you suggest.

 

[Risteard]

It's neither controller nor restricted works so no certificate needs to be issued.

But there are numerous considerations, such as the fact that it is prohibited to have a joint in a flex. Also T&E must comply with I.S. 201-4. Even if the works are not Controlled or Restricted they must still comply with ET101:2008 (and from 1st April can be to I.S. 10101:2020).

But it's hard to state definitively that it's not Controlled or Restricted Works (i.e. Minor Works) without knowing what precisely is being done. Be warned that very, very little falls within the definition of Minor Works.

 

[rapparee]

I'm replacing an old spur socket taken from the ring


Thanks for the reply. I thought it might make it easier to use the existing round cable as a draw-string for the new. As it is being pulled through holes in joists, I thought the 6242Y would kink easier and get stuck.
[automerge]1584651433[/automerge]

The part number is 3-core 2.5mm Dikkan H05vv-f. The manufacturers specs say 34A and 300/500V
[automerge]1584651665[/automerge]

Correct on part one - Internet obfuscation is the rule!, wrong on part two. It's neither controller nor restricted works so no certificate needs to be issued.
[automerge]1584652439[/automerge]

Thanks, I will read those testing guidelines as you suggest.

But there are numerous considerations, such as the fact that it is prohibited to have a joint in a flex. Also T&E must comply with I.S. 201-4. Even if the works are not Controlled or Restricted they must still comply with ET101:2008 (and from 1st April can be to I.S. 10101:2020).

But it's hard to state definitively that it's not Controlled or Restricted Works (i.e. Minor Works) without knowing what precisely is being done. Be warned that very, very little falls within the definition of Minor Works.

I think it is time to wish the OP good luck in his endeavours and bid him farewell.

 

[DPG]

I agree I would leave him to it. He doesn't seem particularly bothered about doing a decent job or listening to advice.