Discuss Wylex cat no. 104 - 45 amp switched fuse replacement in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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One of these: RS/104 | Wylex 45A Fuse Switch Disconnector, 240V | RS Components - https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/fuse-switches/1993925/

is in my kitchen and recently got smashed by someone dropping a very heavy chopping board. The insides look ok but the housing is now useless.

The switched fuse is rated 45 amps, but there are seemingly no like for like replacements available (i'm assuming these are now somewhat antiquated and no longer standard fitment).

Screwfix sell a very similar thing rated at 60 amps:

Wylex 60A Domestic Switched Fused Unit - https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/wylex-60a-domestic-switched-fused-unit/4848j#product_additional_details_container

I'm thinking it would be ok to swap the old one out for this as it is running all the sockets for the kitchen (please note there is no electric oven, it is gas only oven and hobs), and 45amps perhaps seems low for all of the kitchen appliances. The circuit is connected to a modern set of circuit breakers further back that control the rooms in the house individually anyway.

Am I just being a bit paranoid about 15 amps?
 
The replacement you have linked is HUGE in comparison to your old one. Are you sure this unit isn't feeding a single circuit such as a shower? The supply to this is likely to be always on and as such it should be replaced by an electrician. The circuit may also need RCD protection so a different type of unit may be needed.
 
The replacement you have linked is HUGE in comparison to your old one. Are you sure this unit isn't feeding a single circuit such as a shower? The supply to this is likely to be always on and as such it should be replaced by an electrician. The circuit may also need RCD protection so a different type of unit may be needed.

No the shower is just an attachment to a tap plumbed directly into a combi boiler upstairs. This fused switch seems to be an extension for the plug sockets in the downstairs kitchen, supplying the plug sockets along one side of the room.
 
Let's have a photo. What size is the incoming cable and the circuit breaker feeding it?
Going off what you say, get an electrician in, it sounds quite complicated for someone without knowledge.
 
Let's have a photo. What size is the incoming cable and the circuit breaker feeding it?
Going off what you say, get an electrician in, it sounds quite complicated for someone without knowledge.

Images as requested.
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Let's have a photo. What size is the incoming cable and the circuit breaker feeding it?
Going off what you say, get an electrician in, it sounds quite complicated for someone without knowledge.

I can gauge the cables if required, but currently the area is screened off to stop my dog getting near (can check later).
 

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That is a 32A circuit breaker not 45A. It would be dangerous to replace with a 60A switched fuse as your circuit will not have the correct protection from overload. I'm afraid I don't give actual DIY advice as I feel it is dangerous to do so but at present it looks like you quite possibly have live electrics accessible to touch and need to get an electrician in today to remedy.
 
That is a 32A circuit breaker not 45A. It would be dangerous to replace with a 60A switched fuse as your circuit will not have the correct protection from overload. I'm afraid I don't give actual DIY advice as I feel it is dangerous to do so but at present it looks like you quite possibly have live electrics accessible to touch and need to get an electrician in today to remedy.

The circuit is already protected on the main board, I think this is a remnant from an electric cooker at sometime in the past that someone has tapped into for further sockets along one wall. The fuse must have been swapped out for a 32, the exterior casing says 45.
 
You may well be correct in regards to what you are thinking about the history behind this but that doesn’t distract from the fact you may have a live exposed terminal in your kitchen, this needs rectifying ASAP.

Could be very dangerous for anyone that comes into contact with it.
 
You don't need a switch-fuse there. Get an electrician to fit an enclosure with suitable connections and reduce the mcb to 20A, preferably a compatible Contactum one.
 
You may well be correct in regards to what you are thinking about the history behind this but that doesn’t distract from the fact you may have a live exposed terminal in your kitchen, this needs rectifying ASAP.

Could be very dangerous for anyone that comes into contact with it.

Just flicked the cooker switch off and tested the current with a non-contact voltage tester and it seems clear, so no worries hopefully. The area is screened off by a big unit and i don't have kids so there's no risk of accidental touch.
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You don't need a switch-fuse there. Get an electrician to fit an enclosure with suitable connections and reduce the mcb to 20A, preferably a compatible Contactum one.

This makes sense, will do.
 
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