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Replacing a 13A plug fuse with solid brass

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I read once, never seen one for sale, that there is a solid brass replacement for the standard 13A fuse in a 13A plug. This is to eliminate the fusing in the plug, which is handy when having a heavy appliance plugged in behind itself, like under worktops which are isolated and fused by an FCU.

Anyone know where they are available, if they are?

On a dedicated radial with its own MCB and say a 20A isolator switch a washing machine can have a 15A fuseless round pin socket and plug. That is fine, but many manufacturers say that if you remove the 13A moulded plug the guarantee is void. This would never hold up court if an appliance is connected to regulation being sound and safe, but it is avoiding the hassle factor from these irresponsible makers.
 
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You can also get fused 15A plugs but the British Standard only permits a maximum 5A fuse, solid link time?
 
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You can also get fused 15A plugs but the British Standard only permits a maximum 5A fuse, solid link time?
You can still use BS 546 style round pin fuseless plugs and sockets according to BS7671. These are 2A, 5A and 15A, as long as the socket is shuttered.

15A round pin fuseless plugs are not allowed directly on final ring circuits only square pin 13A fused. See: BS7671. section: 433.1.204.

BS 546, 2A, 5A and 15A are permitted on radials, and that is also a radial spur off a final ring. See: BS7671. section: 553.1.3 Table 55.1.

So you can have a 13A FCU off a Final Ring Circuit, with a 15A fuseless round pin BS 546 say behind a washing machine. Which is the best way to go in such a situation, so the fuse is not inaccessible. And to keep a 13A plug from overheating around the fuse in a continuous 13A current draw.

You can have a 15A mcb with a number of BS 546 15A fuseless plugs on a radial in your home. All legal and above board.
 
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Perhaps you might explain the reasoning behind wanting to explore this particular line of thinking, given the infrequent occurrence of blown appliance fuses? It seems as though many respondents, myself included, struggle to comprehend the problem you're seeking to overcome.
 
Perhaps you might explain the reasoning behind wanting to explore this particular line of thinking, given the infrequent occurrence of blown appliance fuses? It seems as though many respondents, myself included, struggle to comprehend the problem you're seeking to overcome.
I recapped that a few times in the thread. People do not read the whole thread just the last couple of posts.
But you might have noticed this in my last post:

"And to keep a 13A plug from overheating around the fuse in a continuous 13A current draw."

This was used on a tumble dryer. Moulded a well. This rarely happens using 15A round pin.

1635000904677.jpeg
 
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I recapped that a few times in the thread. People do not read the whole thread just the last couple of posts.
But you might have noticed this in my last post:

"And to keep a 13A plug from overheating around the fuse in a continuous 13A current draw."

This was used on a tumble dryer. Moulded a well. This rarely happens using 15A round pin.

View attachment 91298
That doesn't look like a fuse issue as both pins have suffered thermal damage.
 
Just making a point. A 15A fuseless plug without a fuse, as opposed to 13A with a fuse, is more manly being far less likely to overheat
Yes but that moulded plug doesn't appear to be damaged because of the fuse so how would a solid link make any difference. You seem to be drifting from ruptured fuses to thermally damaged plugs which a solid link would not resolve.
 
Yes but that moulded plug doesn't appear to be damaged because of the fuse so how would a solid link make any difference. You seem to be drifting from ruptured fuses to thermally damaged plugs which a solid link would not resolve.
Lets close this thread now please ??
 
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Yes but that moulded plug doesn't appear to be damaged because of the fuse so how would a solid link make any difference. You seem to be drifting from ruptured fuses to thermally damaged plugs which a solid link would not resolve.
That may be the case, but the points are:
1) a 15A plug can take more current;
2) no fuse avoids a hot spot.
3) a potential hot spot is hidden.
 
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That may be the case, but the points are:
1) a 15A plug can take more current;
2) no fuse avoids a hot spot.
3) a potential hot spot is hidden.

Incorrect to say 'no fuse avoids a hot spot'. Even if you had a solid link, it could still suffer from poor contact with the fuse clips, just like a fuse can.

I admire your persistence, but you are not really getting anywhere.
 
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