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UK Tenant Having Electrical Safety Test Carried Out - What to Look For?

Discuss Tenant Having Electrical Safety Test Carried Out - What to Look For? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi all, I'd be very grateful for any advice you can give me.

I currently live in a rented property which was built in 1972 - it still has the original fusebox and wiring, and some really ropey DIY electrics that the landlord did himself when he lived in the house in the 80's/90's (there's a stereo speaker wired into the bathroom ceiling, for example - it's not connected to anything or live, but it gives you an idea of what kind of DIY he was getting up to).

We're due an electrical safety test next week, which is something that's been kicked down the road since the first lockdown.

My question is, how bad is this report likely to be? He won't spend any money on the house, and if it's going to cost him a lot of money there's a very good chance I'm going to be looking for a new home in the very near future. I just want to be prepared, so any information you can give me would be really appreciated.
 
make a note of the time spent in the property .Anything under a hour is pathetic .Also the laws are changing about bad landlords etc .So dont be too scared of him etc . Either state to the electrician "are you here to carry out a full EICR test to the book or just issue a cheap report for the benefit of the landlord only "
 
make a note of the time spent in the property .Anything under a hour is pathetic .Also the laws are changing about bad landlords etc .So dont be too scared of him etc . Either state to the electrician "are you here to carry out a full EICR test to the book or just issue a cheap report for the benefit of the landlord only "
I've already spoken to the sparky, he sounded like he wanted to jump off a bridge but in fairness he said it was going to take at least 2 hours. I'm not concerned about him, I'm sure he's pretty decent.

Do you know if the fusebox and associated wiring is likely to be legal, or will it need to be replaced?

The whole thing is going to be a nightmare - there's a plug socket behind the dishwasher, and the only way that thing is coming out is if he removes one of the kitchen units. It's so wedged in you can't even get a finger hold on it.
 
“At least 2 hours”???

Smallish house, then?


Do us a favour…. Photograph a few things that you think aren’t up to scratch…. Ie broken or loose sockets, the fuse board, what sort of light fitting is in the bathroom.
Post them up on here and we can discuss amongst ourselves.

When you get the EICR done… post that up here as well, with any personal details of the property or the electrician redacted, and we might see if he’s missed some glaringly obvious things to report on.
 
Offer the spark a cup of tea on arrival,

be friendly and offer to move things for him if it would help him.

if you know where the main water stop cock is, try to empty the cupboard that undoubtedly prevents access to it.

normally a spark will talk to you about what they find but try not to take up to much of his time
 
Hi all, I'd be very grateful for any advice you can give me.

I currently live in a rented property which was built in 1972 - it still has the original fusebox and wiring, and some really ropey DIY electrics that the landlord did himself when he lived in the house in the 80's/90's (there's a stereo speaker wired into the bathroom ceiling, for example - it's not connected to anything or live, but it gives you an idea of what kind of DIY he was getting up to).

We're due an electrical safety test next week, which is something that's been kicked down the road since the first lockdown.

My question is, how bad is this report likely to be? He won't spend any money on the house, and if it's going to cost him a lot of money there's a very good chance I'm going to be looking for a new home in the very near future. I just want to be prepared, so any information you can give me would be really appreciated.
I suspect the distribution board will require replacement. You can buy a CU for about £50. Light switches and sockets are cheap as chips. Perhaps sockets and switches. The CU will need to be replaced by a registered electrician. Buiklding Regs Part P. But as far as the cabling is concerned, the big job, there's no particular reason why it should need replacing. If it passes the EICR insulation tests then it should be ok. Age isn't the deciding factor.
 
Two points .

2 hours to do an EICR. Minimum 4 to 8 hours depending on size of property. More if it’s a very large large house.

£50 for a consumer unit. I’ve seen some real cheapies with up from RCD with 3 circuits for £40 which would not be acceptable in any domestic setting. The cheapest dual RCD board Ive seen £65 GB.
who fits dual boards any more anyway.

really!
 
2 rcd’s will be more expensive!
I don't know where you shopping dude.
Heres one. Dual RCD plus MCBs. Probably way more than you need. £67.
1657911360451.png
 

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Hi all, I'd be very grateful for any advice you can give me.

I currently live in a rented property which was built in 1972 - it still has the original fusebox and wiring, and some really ropey DIY electrics that the landlord did himself when he lived in the house in the 80's/90's (there's a stereo speaker wired into the bathroom ceiling, for example - it's not connected to anything or live, but it gives you an idea of what kind of DIY he was getting up to).

We're due an electrical safety test next week, which is something that's been kicked down the road since the first lockdown.

My question is, how bad is this report likely to be? He won't spend any money on the house, and if it's going to cost him a lot of money there's a very good chance I'm going to be looking for a new home in the very near future. I just want to be prepared, so any information you can give me would be really appreciated.
Already some good advice been given, but a couple of extra thoughts:

If the house was built in 1972 then the original wiring is probably still OK and clear of some of the worst issues that might have cropped up (Rubber cabling, no earth on lighting, etc).

The fusebox is unlikely to comply on several grounds, though a replacement is not necessarily extortionate.

A lot may come down to how much the landlord tampered with the actual wiring. If it is original then it is probably fine, albeit somewhat limited now in terms of socket placement etc. The issue may be if DIY extra sockets have been added, etc, although there are also (normally) ways of resolving those without needing a full rewire

If the landlord plans to continue to rent the property, then he will need to get a satisfactory EICR either way, so although he may do only the bare minimum, it should be an improvement on what you have.

Definitely keep records of how long the report took, and photos of anything you think are dodgy - and give the electrician a short list of any issues you have had when he arrives as that will be helpful to him.

Once you have the report, we can advise on whether anything dodgy is afoot.
 
Here's a few more. There are many options.
Edit:

Nice that it's a Type A RCD, but that wouldn't comply with even current regulations, let alone AMD 2 IMO - with one RCD up front.

No SPD either of course.

It would be an upgrade on what is there, but that's not a good reason not to at least meet the minimum requirements.

I fit RCBO boards by choice now, but do sometimes give the option of a Dual RCD board and they do have a place, but a more reasonable lower estimate would be £100 IMO, especially with the glands etc needed.

That doesn't include the cost of inspection and certifying it of course.

However, I agree with your other main point that there is no reason why cabling from 1972 needs to be replaced, unless it has been overloaded or fiddled with since it was installed. It was likely installed with a great more pride than most new builds, if truth be told.
 
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I accept that is cheap but most things that cheap have at least one flaw.
For example after amendment 2 it's going to need an SPD. We are also required by regs to divide up the installation to avoid nuscience tripping and an RCD main switch doesn't achieve that.

(I'll save you some time - this is the lowest to which I'll sink:
https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/briti...tegrity-dual-rcd-consumer-unit-with-spd/972kr
and only then in exceptional circumstances, such as an impoverished pensioner still running a Wylex rewireable)

99% of the time most of us fit surge protected double pole RCBO boards, and they provide excellent fault tolerance and easy fault finding.
 
I accept that is cheap but most things that cheap have at least one flaw.
For example after amendment 2 it's going to need an SPD. We are also required by regs to divide up the installation to avoid nuscience tripping and an RCD main switch doesn't achieve that.

(I'll save you some time - this is the lowest to which I'll sink:
https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/briti...tegrity-dual-rcd-consumer-unit-with-spd/972kr
and only then in exceptional circumstances, such as an impoverished pensioner still running a Wylex rewireable)

99% of the time most of us fit surge protected double pole RCBO boards, and they provide excellent fault tolerance and easy fault finding.
Ironically, after AMD 2 it will actually be "easier" to leave out the SPD - if you get them to sign something they don't want it.

In which case the lowest option I might consider is

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/mk-se...d-high-integrity-dual-rcd-consumer-unit/679vf

- though I would still have gone for the SPD version which was only £20 more, but doesn't seem to be on SF's site at the moment...
 
If I had any idea how many ways he needs I could be more specific. But it's not going to break the bank from a kit perspective.
I stated Upfront RCD in earlier post may be £50 mark, but I also said this does not comply with current regs.
scraping the barrel there I’m afraid.
 
All I'm trying to do here is give the OP, the tenant, a little insight into the costs involved in bringing the premise up to code.
I appreciate the sentiment and agree the CU upgrade is not a major expense. In the wider scheme of things landlords are getting money for rent whatever condition the electrics are in, and the cost over the lifetime of a consumer unit is nothing.
Failing to take the chance to fit something decent isn't really in anyone's long term interests.

If it's true that the landlord would rather sell up than improve the place, then I empathise with the OP. I'd have thought most landlords would want the ongoing rental income though. Any potential buyer will be asking for money off after seeing an EICR anyway, so he'll pay one way or another.
 
New consumer unit needed is almost certain as it's more likely to currently be rewirable fuses or at best 3871 plug in MCB's.
What about the 2.5mm T&E cable for that era...didn't it have 1mm CPC? Could that tip the max required Zs readings of some circuits over the edge?
Also tails, main earth and bonding sizes probably not up to today's recommendations. And not to mention that sticky "green goo" from the untinned conductors inside the accessories.
Possibly no CPC on the lighting.
At best it's gonna be a new CU, upgrading earthing, rewire lighting circuits and replacing accessories.
 
I think the whole discussion of raw CU cost is missing the point, it is the labour that usually dominates any replacement work. But even that is getting the priority wrong, as the real risks are not going to be the use of use wire and no RCD, but all of the other sort of faults or incorrect modifications that might have taken place since to the original installation in the 70s.

The free download of Best Practice Guide #4 has the sort of thing that an EICR inspection should be looking for, and the related guidance on coding it for severity of risk:
 

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