Sounds a bit high a reading to be due to just the cable resistance? What is Ze at the supply origin? Perhaps poor or corroded connections of the armour?
BG IP66 sockets are typically their standard white sockets mounted in a weatherproof frame - hence the standard screw holes with white plastic covers in the white faceplate. So the black rectangles are just lenses.
Still no nearer to guessing why the socket doesn't work. I'd ask the OP whas was...
Looks to be a BG WPL22 socket, which should be an ordinary IP66 socket from e.g. Screwfix (stock code 420XH), not Bluetooth or WiFi controlled.
Slightly puzzled by one photo showing what appears to be an SWA gland below the socket, yet the armour is brought into the socket housing and not...
The only time I've used a metal plate, it was to line up holes with metal conduits in a service cupboard outside a flat, and didn't care what it looked like within reason.
More recently when I needed holes to align with some pyro glands and look ok I cut a set of new holes further forward than...
I've tried in the past with Fusebox, the knockouts came loose I'd either use a gland reducer, or put several cables in a larger size gland. Not much help if you want to gland a number of SWA cables, then perhaps fit a metal plate over the holes with the holes you want drilled or cut.
Quite likely the apperture is not exactly the right size for a fusebox kit, but surely it can be enlarged a little or closed off a little as needed. I did one 2 weeks ago doing exactly that - sounds like someone doesn't want the bother- perhaps find an electrican who is not looking for excuses...
Fusebox make a surround bracket so you can mount their consumer units recessed into a wall, and you can adjust how much of the box is recessed, to suit the depth available.
For example, see: FuseBox AFMF14 14 Module Flush Mounting Frame Kit -...
You can find the misconnected brown by trial & error as littlespark says above. The one brown that is unlikely to be in the wrong place is the one in the same sleeve as the blue sleeved brown one - that is the switch drop. It could be any of the other 3. And again, be sure to isolate the circuit...
One of the browns is supposed to be the switched live for the light that stays on, connected with the blue sleeved brown. Instead, you've connected it to the permanent live (which should be 3 browns connected, not the 4 you have).
I know this is not quite what you are referring to, but I block any member who has a profile that includes anything dancing, jiggling, buzzing about etc. I can't stand that sort of stuff, either in posts or profiles, and find it very distracting and also unprofessional.
Could you not make something? For example a thin metal sheet (aluminium for ease of working) a bit bigger than the hole (say 180 x 120 mm), with a 100mm diameter hole cut in the middle, then a 100mm dia short length of duct with a flange bolted to the sheet.
Or even something like this just...
Don't know about NAPIT, but with NICEIC (and ELECSA before), I have the impression a lot is down to the assessor. I'd have expected for something like accidentally the wrong RCD type, a photo of the corrected installation would suffice, assuming everything else is OK, that would fit with their...
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