Socket contacts may be weak or dirty, also fuse clips in plug. There's no reason why a plug should get 'hot' at 2.8kW, although they tend to get warm.
Swap moulded 13A plugs for charcoal/black MK pottery ones -
13 Amp MK Safety Plug - Charcoal - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK0646CHA.html
and use a single MK metalclad socket for each plug -
13 Amp 1 Gang Single Switched Socket - Metal - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK2977.html
13 Amp MK Safety Plug - Charcoal - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK0646CHA.html
and use a single MK metalclad socket for each plug -
13 Amp 1 Gang Single Switched Socket - Metal - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK2977.html
They are switched on in morning bout 8 & off bout 3.00pm.
Not too much attention when pulling plugs out of sockets but with this,you know as soon as you pulled them out.
Agree the pins are actually very hot,there’s no way you can touch them for long,a quick touch,ouch..
Wants hard wiring, not fcus or connecting through 16A sockets.
Unlikely, with a normal heating appliance. Plus, if it is drawing too much current it will be getting too hot, and that is more likely to be noticed than the plug.
This is simple. The weak link in any plug and socket is the tiny contact area between the two, where the socket grips the pins. Even the most expensive, high tech connectors are not perfect, and the humble 13A socket certainly isn't in its cheaper forms. If the contacts get slack or the pins are tarnished they will heat.
A good quality 13A socket/ plug combination will handle 13A semi-continuously. We should not have to suggest that a 2.8kW load is excessive so that the appliance has to be fitted to an FCU. A 16A socket would be better but should not be necessary. Maybe these sockets have been abused, maybe worn or grimy inside, or just a poor design from new. But changing them, and the plugs if needed, should solve the problem.
I thought the title of this thread was ".... very warm/hot pies"
I am severely disappointed.
I am severely disappointed.
T
Toneyz
I have been into many site offices where they have had a heater on the wall plugged in via 13A plug and the socket has brown heat marks around the pins where there is a long period of an on/off cycle. A switched fused spur is more suited. What is the F.L.C. if a plug and/or a flex has been put it could be the F.L.C. is more than 13A and should have been hardwired or via 16A socked radial circuit.
A
Adam W
If the pins and/or socket connection has become tarnished over time there will be a higher resistance between the two, which could well cause overheating.
Unplugging it and plugging it in on a regular basis will help keep the contacts clean. Maybe try it a few times while you're there.
A more substantial solution may be, as suggested, to wire via FCU if it's not going to be moved, or commando plug and socket if it is.
Unplugging it and plugging it in on a regular basis will help keep the contacts clean. Maybe try it a few times while you're there.
A more substantial solution may be, as suggested, to wire via FCU if it's not going to be moved, or commando plug and socket if it is.
No. You must swap the complete plugs, not just the tops.
Doubt it. You can't get power off a plug top. You need a complete plug.
All a plug does is stop water running down the drain.
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