Extracting hot air from room (woodburner)

[rolyberkin]

I have a lounge where I would like to extract the air from a ceiling vent, channel it through the adjacent garage and vent it into my hallway which is bloody cold, no doubt this breaches some kind of Euro regulations but hey ho. My question is what kind of fan should I use and will a mixed flow in line fan push air from ceiling level to floor level. Any expert views before I go cutting holes in the ceiling please? I was thinking of adding a thermostat to control it so it only kicks in when the woodburner is in full flow.

 

[PEG]

The fan will be capable,but factor in where the air will come from,to replace the hot air,and also,where the air expelled will go,in the hallway.
Is the woodburner ventilated? Does it get it's combustion air from the room or externally?

I know of a large pub,whose kitchen extractor fans,pulled the smoke and fumes,back down the snug stove chimney....although i accept,the thought of sooty,coughing revellers versus sweaty,greasy chefs,is hilarious....there was the chance of far worse

 

[rolyberkin]

The door is always open and it has a external hit and miss tube vent to allow air to be pulled into the room. The problem is that even with the door open the room reaches 28 degrees and the Mrs objects to me sitting in there wearing my budgie smugglers. I was hoping that the air will disperse around the hallway and up stairs, it is quite a large room so I am hoping it could cope with the air being extracted.

 

[Richard Burns]

Multiple considerations come into play here, the first few that come to mind is how much air do you want to move, how will the fire cope and how hot is the air?
The duct in the garage will lose a lot of the heat and so you would need well insulated ducting. But 28°C air will not be all that warm after long duct runs.
You are breaching a fire containment wall so you should have fire collars on the duct to close it down in case of fire.
The duct would need to be suitable for the temperature of the air but I am assuming you are not ducting straight from the wood burner!
A mixed flow inline fan is probably OK, but you should calculate how much loss there will be from length of duct, bends, etc. so you know how much make up air will be needed into the room.

 

[Wilko]

Hi RB^2 , for some reason this reminded me of one of my favourite movies, Brazil.
All I can say is I hope there's a 27B-6 on its way to Central Services .

 

[PEG]

These type of ideas are fraught with unintended consequences...you have spare heat,at the top of the front room,but you want it,lower down,in the space that needs heating. You have to do this,without bringing excess,cold air in to the heated room,and without expelling cold air from the hall,somewhere else...

If you are drilling holes,piping and fixing...another radiator may be an option,if there is wet,radiant heating,also.

Me folks have a lovely Dunsley Yorkshire stove,with a boiler for upstairs rads and hotwater. The house is 60's open-plan,and the heat fills the place,so the rads upstairs,shut down on their thermostatic valves,so although the rooms are warm,me mum loses the clothes heating benefit,of a radiator....

Downstairs,there is original,electric underfloor heating,which switches via wall stats,during Eons 10 hours of grace...but the stats are toasty,due to stove,so mum misses the warm floor....

So,we have a continual,circular conversation,where me mum suggests,and i see her point...that she was better off,in the 40's,at her mum's council house,with one Rayburn...and a rake of jumpers

 

[rolyberkin]

Multiple considerations come into play here, the first few that come to mind is how much air do you want to move, how will the fire cope and how hot is the air?
The duct in the garage will lose a lot of the heat and so you would need well insulated ducting. But 28°C air will not be all that warm after long duct runs.
You are breaching a fire containment wall so you should have fire collars on the duct to close it down in case of fire.
The duct would need to be suitable for the temperature of the air but I am assuming you are not ducting straight from the wood burner!
A mixed flow inline fan is probably OK, but you should calculate how much loss there will be from length of duct, bends, etc. so you know how much make up air will be needed into the room.

I have so far ordered some insulated 100mm ducting (apparently used in hydroponics) and a fire rated ceiling exhaust port, I think I will try a lower powered inline fan first and then buy a more powerful fan if it doesn't work. I don't want to shift too much air and it is going about 2m so not far in the grand scheme of things. Will let you know how I get on!

 

[snowhead]

Buy a carbon monoxide detector as well.
If you're sucking air out of a room faster than it can get in, then you'll create negative pressure which may result in a backdraft down the burner chimney.

 

[rolyberkin]

Buy a carbon monoxide detector as well.
If you're sucking air out of a room faster than it can get in, then you'll create negative pressure which may result in a backdraft down the burner chimney.

Yes aware of this potential problem and have carbon monoxide detectors. I really just want to extract a trickle but will see how we get on.

 

[solarsavings]

Can you use an heat recovery system.

 

[PEG]

Use an old Navy trick...get two heavy shot (iron balls,6" to 9" diameter)have one in the stove,centre of burn,and the other in the hall,in a bucket of sand....swap every hour