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Hey all, new to the forum, thanks in advance for your help. I'm confident I'll find the answer(s) I need here. That being said....here's a quick run down of my problem:

I picked up a couple sets of off road/fog lights for my pickup and a couple switches, relays, wire, etc. The lights have 6 different modes. Solid white, solid orange, both colors together and three other modes that are strone/flashing modes. I wanted to operate the lights and cycle through the 6 modes using one switch so I picked up an "off/on/momentary" rocker. It's got four pins coming off the back, and it doesnt have any type of illumination or light on the switch itself. Ideally I want to use a relay for each set of lights also just because I know it's the right thing to do.

The lights each have three wires coming off of the back of them, a positive, a negative, and a signal wite that its used to change the mode of the light. I have a basic understanding of switches and lights and stuff but I cannot figure out how to wire these up with the switch I described and a standard 4 pin relay. I know it's probably very simple but every tine I try to tackle it I get so frustrated and give up. Can anyone explain it in simple English or even offer a simple drawing that would explain it. Thanks again.
 
Hi
If I understand correctly, to operate these you first need to apply power (via relay in your case) to the +ve/-ve of the lights, and then while that power continues to be applied, additionally apply pulses to the signal wire with a momentary switch.
To do that with a single switch, it would need to go from off to permanently on, and then pushing it further to a spring loaded momentary position operates a separate contact. And operating the momentary must not disconnect the mid position permanent "on".

I see that off-on-momentary on switches for ignition & start seem to work like this
eg K4 Off / On / Momentary On For Ignition Start 20 Amp Toggle Switch With Tab Terminals - https://www.pacificcustoms.com/k4s12-213.html

Does your switch act as above? If so I guess one pair of contacts is the permanent on (to power relay) and the other pair is the momentary (to signal wire). If you have a multimeter you could confirm.
 
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Hi
If I understand correctly, to operate these you first need to apply power (via relay in your case) to the +ve/-ve of the lights, and then while that power continues to be applied, additionally apply pulses to the signal wire with a momentary switch.
To do that with a single switch, it would need to go from off to permanently on, and then pushing it further to a spring loaded momentary position operates a separate contact. And operating the momentary must not disconnect the mid position permanent "on".

I see that off-on-momentary on switches for ignition & start seem to work like this
eg K4 Off / On / Momentary On For Ignition Start 20 Amp Toggle Switch With Tab Terminals - https://www.pacificcustoms.com/k4s12-213.html

Does your switch act as above? If so I guess one pair of contacts is the permanent on (to power relay) and the other pair is the momentary (to signal wire). If you have a multimeter you could confirm.
Yes it does. I'm sorry I thought I mentioned that. It's an Off/on/momentary switch.
 
Yes it does. I'm sorry I thought I mentioned that. It's an Off/on/momentary switch.
Thanks. Yes you did, I just had to get my head round it !!
Does this help?
Off/On/Momentaty Switch 697C1F4E-563E-4AEA-8C84-4CF9B82A7319 - EletriciansForums.net

Could use just one relay and connect both lights to it, if not too much current (eg LED lights?)
Also above assumes the 'signal' required is the full +12v. If instructions say something different, may need resistor(s).
 
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Thanks. Yes you did, I just had to get my head round it !!
Does this help?
View attachment 91003

Could use just one relay and connect both lights to it, if not too much current (eg LED lights?)
Also above assumes the 'signal' required is the full +12v. If instructions say something different, may need resistor(s).
Hey quick question man, what does "lights feed" represent in that drawing? I'm sure it's obvious I just dont see it. Thanks.
 
Thanks. Yes you did, I just had to get my head round it !!
Does this help?
View attachment 91003

Could use just one relay and connect both lights to it, if not too much current (eg LED lights?)
Also above assumes the 'signal' required is the full +12v. If instructions say something different, may need resistor(s).
Ok this may be a stupid question but looking at the drawing, the switch diagram....is that to be interpreted as I'm looking at the back of the switch or looking at the front? It would make a difference as far as what pin is where. I witit up as pictured and got nothing. I need to doublecheck my work, could be somethings a silly but so far I'm still spinning my wheels. I founded a switch kit that is supposed to be plug and play from ths manufacturer of the lights but that just means spend more money, lol.
 
Ok this may be a stupid question but looking at the drawing, the switch diagram....is that to be interpreted as I'm looking at the back of the switch or looking at the front? It would make a difference as far as what pin is where. I witit up as pictured and got nothing. I need to doublecheck my work, could be somethings a silly but so far I'm still spinning my wheels. I founded a switch kit that is supposed to be plug and play from ths manufacturer of the lights but that just means spend more money, lol.
I don't know how your switch is wired. I assumed you would have a multimeter and could check which was the "on" part, and which was the "momentary" part.
If you haven't got a multimeter I suggest you borrow or buy one.
The whole idea with electrics is that you test what you've done, to make sure it's correct, before you connect it up!
Not just try it, and it goes "bang"?

Also it's possible I got the relay pin numbers wrong, so it would be worth checking (eg on the web) that the numbers tie up for the relay you are using.
Again if you had a meter it's easy to check.

Good luck with your project
 
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I don't know how your switch is wired. I assumed you would have a multimeter and could check which was the "on" part, and which was the "momentary" part.
If you haven't got a multimeter I suggest you borrow or buy one.
The whole idea with electrics is that you test what you've done, to make sure it's correct, before you connect it up!
Not just try it, and it goes "bang"?

Also it's possible I got the relay pin numbers wrong, so it would be worth checking (eg on the web) that the numbers tie up for the relay you are using.
Again if you had a meter it's easy to check.

Good luck with your project
So someone that has the same lights/switch combination posted this diagram which is something he drew up, he said its correct and it works. Sooooo, I rewired everything as he shows it should be and I realized thaty there's no place where the fused battery power or acc power comes in, or where a ground goes out to the chassis or negative terminal. Or am I totally missing something? Anyone? Thanks Alot.
 

Attachments

  • Off/On/Momentaty Switch switch and relay - EletriciansForums.net
    switch and relay.jpg
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So someone that has the same lights/switch combination posted this diagram which is something he drew up, he said its correct and it works. Sooooo, I rewired everything as he shows it should be and I realized thaty there's no place where the fused battery power or acc power comes in, or where a ground goes out to the chassis or negative terminal. Or am I totally missing something? Anyone? Thanks Alot.
Relay pin 30 red wire going to the switch reds seems to be the +ve connection to the battery (as indicated by an asterisk)
and relay pin 85 going to the switch white wires the -ve connection (as indicated by an asterisk).
You should still put a fuse in the circuit (that's not shown in that diagram)
There seem to be a lot more tags on the switch than the one I looked at, but if it ties up with what you have, give it a go!
 
Relay pin 30 red wire going to the switch reds seems to be the +ve connection to the battery (as indicated by an asterisk)
and relay pin 85 going to the switch white wires the -ve connection (as indicated by an asterisk).
You should still put a fuse in the circuit (that's not shown in that diagram)
There seem to be a lot more tags on the switch than the one I looked at, but if it ties up with what you have, give it a go!
Ha yes! Thank you so much. I didnt realize thats what "connection" meant but duh! Makes sense. I'm not too great with electrical diagrams. I can do floor plans, mechanical drawings, Irrigation layouts, and really just about anything bedsides electrical. For some reason my brain cant progress beyond the basic understanding, and respect, for electricity. You rock man!
 

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