Log cabins.

[buzzlightyear]

I'd been told it was insulated and not questioned it. (When I drilled the hole for the supply cable I assumed I'd found a baton as it felt solid.).

Until I drilled to other side of hut, it's OK
Now the squrial can put its nuts in the hole.

 

[brianmoooore]

If it is of the construction in the pic,, then it'll be an oven in summer and a fridge in winter. We have two sheds, almost touching each other, but in adjacent gardens. One is like this one, and the other is timber frame, shiplap clad, plywood inside, with 3" of Celotex between. No comparison when it's cold or hot.
If you can persuade them to insulate and line, then all your problems are solved.

 

[buzzlightyear]

If it is of the construction in the pic,, then it'll be an oven in summer and a fridge in winter. We have two sheds, almost touching each other, but in adjacent gardens. One is like this one, and the other is timber frame, shiplap clad, plywood inside, with 3" of Celotex between. No comparison when it's cold or hot.
If you can persuade them to insulate and line, then all your problems are solved.

How would you get on with a igloo.

 

[timhoward]

If it is of the construction in the pic,, then it'll be an oven in summer and a fridge in winter. We have two sheds, almost touching each other, but in adjacent gardens. One is like this one, and the other is timber frame, shiplap clad, plywood inside, with 3" of Celotex between. No comparison when it's cold or hot.
If you can persuade them to insulate and line, then all your problems are solved.

I like the thinking. I'm more likely to convince them if I let their friends sleep in it over Christmas I think, so come January I will certainly raise the idea!

 

[HandySparks]

If you're installing conduit, trunking or capping, bear in mind that the wood will move. If it's fairly new, the timber will dry out and shrink in width so the building might be an inch lower in a year's time. On a similar job, I used pvc conduit and left plenty of room in the joints for shrinkage of the walls.

 

[R-fur]

What about dado trunking? Run it all the way round whether its needed for cables on not so that it looks fitted.

 

[brianmoooore]

. If it's fairly new, the timber will dry out and shrink in width so the building might be an inch lower in a year's time.

The shed that I referred to in post #22 was painted green shortly after it was erected. By the end of the summer it was green and white horizontal stripes.

 

[Simon47]

To be fair to the customer, he has only just bought the house and inherited this beautifully finished shell, with every surface including roof cladded inside. If you had a gas fire and candlelight it would be quite practical...!

Ah, that sheds some light on it. My very first thought was along the lines of the correct answer being "you should have thought about that a long time ago" - a bit like the joke about the local telling a tourist who's asked for directions that "I wouldn't start from here".

The log cabin providers could do a little more to facilitate the electrical installation.

I recall seeing one on the TV some years ago - I think it was probably Grand Designs.
He got a plan from the manufacturers of where all the support pads needed to be (equivalent to laying foundations for a brick built house), then it arrived in kit form on a couple of lorries. All the parts coded so that once the first layer was on, it was then a case of stack by numbers.
But all the timbers were pre-drilled for the electrics. Square/rectangular recesses for the switches and sockets, and holes drilled in every piece of timber where the cable runs were needed - it was done with CAD on the computer, and then CNC milled. It really was impressive the way the manufacturer had all this organised and automated.

For that one, the logs were exposed on the inside, then there was about 2 foot gap and external cladding - with the gap filled with a sheep's wool based insulation.