But why not just take the 1 power feed to your first downlight and daisy chain from there, light to light?
Isn't the difference with doing that and doing it your way is you have an added step of cutting and sticking all these wires into the splitter? Aren't you basically adding an unnecessary...
Yeah you'd use a switch & load in that situation, I like these too, but just never understood when you'd need their other product, the splitter. Because once you've got your switch & load fitted, you can go from light to light without any other products, be it downlight or rose no? Can't think...
It's a light splitter from Quickwire. The Switch & Load is a great alternative to a light junction box, just don't see when you'd need a splitter, couldn't you go from light to light without it?
Was wondering, when would you need to use a splitter? Isn't there usually enough room in a light to terminate more than one wire to go out to the next light?
thanks a lot everyone for taking the time to explain. You made it very easy to understand. I took a look at the graph in BBB. I understand now why we do a PFC test and why a fuse allows a current until it starts reaching over 100 amps. But there's one thing I don't understand, what if your...
Thanks for your input guys, it makes a lot of sense now why I need to check that I don't go over the 16.5ka cut out fuse. Because if it did, it could cause melting and fire etc. And so I guess this is why we do a PFC test.
I'm having trouble with the other end of things. What I mean is, current...
Thanks for taking the time to explain :)
Thanks for the guidance on where to look in BBB. it says that BS 88-3 replaced BS 1361, I had a look any way at tables for BS 88-3. There's one for 0.4 s and 5 s disconnection times for max earth fault loop impedance. I'm not sure these tables help...
Hi all! I'm at the start of a long road to become a sparky's mate, and I'm tryina wrap my head around something that might seem really basic. It's to do with the prospective fault current test. Let's say I get a reading of 1.2ka, and the main cutout fuse is BS 1361 type 1 which is 16.5ka. This...
Just trying to research installing the ring doorbell pro. There's a vid on youtube of someone installing it. My question is the way he installed it was it okay? how would you do it? I found some micro trunking for the doorbell wire, but it's pretty expensive, what would you use? Here's the vid:
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