Discuss 100 Amps or 60 Amps in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

AndyBuzz

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Hi guys - seeking an opinion or possibly experience of the same issue.
I have a spark engaged to do a fair bit of upgrade, been here for 35 years so current installation is well behind current regs !
The main job I asked the spark to do was fit a modern consumer unit in my outbuilding / garage. Rightly - he has gone back to the main board and advised the current armoured is only capable of 40 amps under current regs. However it did pass an insulation test. We plan to upgrade to 16mm for 60 amp capable so can later do an EV charge point . I've bought the ducting.
But - as my main house meter is old - he suggested asking for a smart meter - and at same time get an isolation switch fitted. Makes his works easier. Good idea and I arranged this with my Energy provider. It was fitted on Wednesday.
Not happy - he fitted an ordinary modern Economy 7 meter - not a smart one as promised.
Gobsmacked - he said FYI despite the main fuse saying 100 amps there is only a 60 amp fitted. He scratched up the 100amp label. He said refer to your power distributor.
So - question - has anyone come across a main fuse that says one thing and is fitted with another (less) ?
Where do I stand - it's never been touched since original installation.
Now I think I'm buggered. Can't run all that with 60 amp main fuse ?
My electrician says we are stuck and I have to contact SSE.
Does the power distributor have any responsibility ?
Many thanks
 
Many thanks to both previous replies.
My spark assumed we had 100amps 'available'.
So are you suggesting that in a situation like this, my spark would break the seal to check what's really provided ?
I am not a spark but worked in Engineering for years. It seems very sloppy labelling by SSE and is misleading ?
 
Many thanks to both previous replies.
My spark assumed we had 100amps 'available'.
So are you suggesting that in a situation like this, my spark would break the seal to check what's really provided ?
I am not a spark but worked in Engineering for years. It seems very sloppy labelling by SSE and is misleading ?

It's very common. The fuse carrier itself is rated at 100A maximum. The fuse within can be anything up to this value.

I'm surprised your electrician didn't know this.
 
Ok thank you. I am better informed and learnt something
I also now know I can’t complain to SSE but ask for a survey to see what the feasibility is to upgrade the supply (and cost)
I fear it will be tricky as my supply is run through the middle of next door !
 
I'm not an expert in EV chargers, but I'm given to understand that if you have a looped supply, and a 60 amp supply, then unfortunately both of these are hurdles that will need overcoming.
I've heard of instances where DNO (SSE) will unloop without charging. Others know more about this area of electrickery than me.
 
it is common knowledge now that the DNO are leaving 60amps in now
having to try balancing the loads better from the sub stations ,knowing the fact if everbody was on 100 amp the cable might snap crackle and pop.
 
Thanks again for replies.
I've just looked up looped supply and now understand the concept.
Do SSE have accurate records of whether I am on a looped supply, and the supply cable size(s) ? 35 years ago !!
We are very rural, in one of a pair of cottages fed from overhead. The overhead runs about 400 yards to a more substantial set of overheads. I remember 35 years ago the linesman who installed our supply saying there is a 400 amp switch box there for isolating our overhead.
I think this might be expensive - or I just abandon it all and forget the EV charging 'future proofing'. Keep to petrol !!
I'll contact them tomorrow - maybe they will do a survey.
I'd have preferred my electrician to do this but he's ill at the mo.
Thanks all for your support and replies. Though I'm not an electrician I can understand all your replies and what the fundemental issues are.
 
OK just to close this - and I did ask before - how do you guys as sparks find out what fuse is actually fitted ? Do you check the main fuse (ie break the seal) or does the DNO have an accurate record that you can enquire.
Yes - I'm 'disappointed' my electrician didn't check this further - though he did comment that the incoming supply looked a bit small for 100 amps
 
That’s the funny thing;
Our test certificates asks us to fill in a box what size the main fuse is…. But we are not allowed to pull it to find out

we have to go by the sticker on the fuse carrier… which in experience … is either “100A” or “60/80” which still doesn’t help… which is it? 60 or 80?
The carrier is moulded with 100A printed into the plastic, as others have said, that’s the rating of the carrier- the biggest fuse that can go in.

I’m surprised they didn’t fit a smart meter. I thought all suppliers were pushing for them.
I take it that’s because of rural setting and maybe bad mobile signal for the smart communications.
 
Thanks again for replies.
I've just looked up looped supply and now understand the concept.
Do SSE have accurate records of whether I am on a looped supply, and the supply cable size(s) ? 35 years ago !!
We are very rural, in one of a pair of cottages fed from overhead. The overhead runs about 400 yards to a more substantial set of overheads. I remember 35 years ago the linesman who installed our supply saying there is a 400 amp switch box there for isolating our overhead.
I think this might be expensive - or I just abandon it all and forget the EV charging 'future proofing'. Keep to petrol !!
I'll contact them tomorrow - maybe they will do a survey.
I'd have preferred my electrician to do this but he's ill at the mo.
Thanks all for your support and replies. Though I'm not an electrician I can understand all your replies and what the fundemental issues are.

Hopefully they may be able to sort it for you. Let us know what they say.
 
Now I think I'm buggered. Can't run all that with 60 amp main fuse ?
The better EV charges have a current transformer for the main supply and will adapt the charging to keep your total below 60A (assuming the house is below 60 of course!)

So if charging and you put on an electric shower it just throttles the car charge for 10 minutes or whatever you are using it for.

Bigger issue is if you plan lots of electric heating or a massive range-style cooker, though I think some of the fancy induction ones also have total demand throttling (or am I imagining that?)
 

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