Discuss Hammond Organ, is it safe in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Good morning
I have just purchased a Hammond Organ
On inspecting the plug I see the mains Lead is just twin core
In order to get the organ pat tested does it need to be earthed
I see the mains lead goes into a mains transformer
I need to know the organ is safe before I start playing it
Any suggestions please
Sharon
 
How old is it? Depending on its age it may require the electronics servicing for reliability and to protect certain components from being damaged.
 
Good morning
I have just purchased a Hammond Organ
On inspecting the plug I see the mains Lead is just twin core
In order to get the organ pat tested does it need to be earthed
I see the mains lead goes into a mains transformer
I need to know the organ is safe before I start playing it
Any suggestions please
Sharon

How old is it? Depending on its age it may require the electronics servicing for reliability and to protect certain components from being damaged.
Not sure how old it is
 
To my knowledge and extensive research nobody has covered interstellar on Youtube using a Hammond organ. The church organ is the nearest I could find.

You could have a first here...


 
What model Hammond?

There are vast differences between say a model B made in 1935 and an Aurora from 1979. The latter was made to relatively modern European safety standards, but some of the older tonewheel models have more basic construction as befits their age and USA origin where power is 120V and some safety specs were historically not as stringent.

Perhaps more importantly, many organs have had Leslie adaptor kits fitted over the years. These can significantly impact safety as they bring the AC power and signal wiring together in one box and were sometimes fitted by amateurs.

As per above posts, pictures would be helpful.
 
I am trying to remember what a T-series looks like inside, I will have to find my service manual.

Having a 2-core mains lead is not in itself reason for PAT failure, unless it is an incorrect replacement for a factory-fitted 3-core. What is probably meant is that the appliance has Class 0 protection, i.e. relies only on basic insulation. If it has Class II protection (reinforced or double insulation ) then a 2-core mains lead is fine. I suspect it is not class II but I am struggling to remember what the chassis looks like inside; I will have to find my service manual.

If it is Class 0 and you convert to Class I by adding a 3-core lead, in theory you are probably making it safer. However as this amounts to a design modification, you will be taking responsibility for ensuring the modification is suitable and sufficient and leaves it as a compliant Class I design. E.g. which parts need earthing (PSU? motor? run capacitor case? metalwork to which unsheathed cable is strapped?)

Actually I might have a T-series in the warehouse. If so I'll take a look.
 
OK, so long as it is actually Class II that's wrapped up. Otherwise, treat it as a historic item and pay good attention to its maintenance. Do not ignore warning signs of electrical faults. I run a lot of vintage gear and some of it definitely does not meet current standards by a very large margin. It can be safe so long as one understands its limitations and handles it wisely.

Yes, I do seem to have one of the later T-series, up in Bedford. If that sounds vague, I have over 40 electric organs in three different locations and they are not static, they arrive, some leave or are stripped for parts. Its purpose in the collection is to compare and contrast with the Compton CL72. When I am next there I will have a look at its electrical safety aspects and maybe play a few tunes on it.
 
Hi Lucien
Just a thought as you have a T102
Last week we moved the organ from East Yorkshire to Hayle in Cornwall
We moved it on its back in a trailer
When we connected it and I checked it over
Both keyboards play ok
However, when I move the pedal drawbar we get a most horrendous noise from the organ speaker
The more I move the drawbar out the louder the noise is
The pedals play ok
Any ideas what the problem could be?
 
What kind of noise? Roaring / crackling / humming / whining etc?
How does its level compare with the notes that play?
Most likely a connector has been disturbed by the move. I will take a look at the service manual and pin that down a bit more closely.

I recall that in the T-series, the pedals use electronic dividers instead of sourcing the tones directly from the generators. This means that there is a wider variety of possible faults, it is not simply a question of routing generator pitches through key contacts and drawbars to the matching transformer.
 

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