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Hi Mike. Yes both pumps work.

Thanks
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Ideally for the HW both pumps, and for the CH just thr boiler pump. If i can sort the bavk feed problem it would me that can have the direct HW direct to the boiler via the junctioned spur. So when the HW clock kicks both pumps are on. If the HW is off and the CH is on, the live feed from the CH is turning the HW on via the back feed. Thats why have the manual switch in there at the moment.

Cheers
 
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Not sure. How can i tell
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There is a large red cylinder connected on the main return of the boiler of that hrlp
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There is a large red cylinder connected on the main return of the boiler of that hrlp
 
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Hi Mike. All the motorised values are working.

I need a solution to thw back feed. Looking at 25amp no nc contractor with a coil. Would this work to stop the back feed?

Thanks
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I dont so many connections as the HW on has two wires.

Look electrical supplier suggested this, but not sure.
 

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Need to be careful here. If cylinders are unvented, and you are trying to alter the controls, then this can have disasterous consequences.
I would recommend you get a professional to look at the system first hand. For what it's worth, I don't see the issue with leaving the resol controller on in the summer, these buffer tanks are normally very well insulated, and without altering pipework, chances are you're trying to draw boiler flow water through the buffer direct to cylinders without mixing, which is unlikely to work. With some pipework mods, a safe and operable system could be made to bypass buffer for a winter and summer mode, but I wouldn't suggest it's a DIY job.
 
The only thing i have changed on this is the heat source. Which was a wood pellet burnsr. It was wired with two. Zero volts inputs CH and HW. Now that i have changed the heat source to oil, the new burner only has a single 240v input.

I did not think the change of the heat source would have any impact on the actual plumbing side of things, just the electrical side due to the single input. Am i being stupid here.

Do you know about the contractor?

Thanks
 
Thanks for all your help guys. After a bit of research, it turned out the original contactor which was in the system was wired incorrectly by the installer so not activating the coil.
 

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