Discuss Sump Controller in the Commercial Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Can't seem to figure out the issue on a sump controller I am working on. It is a pre-built controller box, set up for two pumps (lead/lag pump system) and a 4 float system (stop,lead,lag,alarm). Both pumps are 120v, as is the control circuit. The contactor is a 3 pole contactor but shipped out wired for a single phase. L1 is ran through the contactor and goes to T1 terminal. L2 (neutral) goes to L3 of the contactor, feeds through the overloads and jumpers from T3 to L2, goes through the overloads and goes to the T2 terminal. Overloads are set at maximum. Can't get the pumps to turn on, verified pump worked by hooking directly into an extension cord. However, when wired to the controller get nothing. When you turn the control to Hand mode and the contactor pulls in, I have 120v T1 (hot) to ground, 120v T1 to T2, and since i have 2 pumps and two circuits, 208v between the two T1 terminals. No action on the pump, no current on the clamp on meter. Verified neutral is good by pulling in contactor and reading continuity from T2 to L2 line neutral. Bypassed controller entirely by hooking pump directly to hot and neutral to no avail. There are two control boxes, both are wired identical, but this one is giving me issues. Used one of the pump circuits for control power so know that is good as the control circuit works as it should, verified all floats are accurately labeled and landed (stop, lead, lag, alarm). OCPD is 20A, controller has two 30A breakers, pumps listed at 9.5A 115v.
Any ideas, similar experiences? Thanks.
 
You seem to have a contradiction there:

verified pump worked by hooking directly into an extension cord
Bypassed controller entirely by hooking pump directly to hot and neutral to no avail

I.e. the pump does work without the controller and also it doesn't work. If the extension cord was from a different supply that could mean that the supply connections to the controller are high resistance, or accidentally wired in series with something else. There's enough current available to operate the control circuit but with the pump connected the voltage falls.

What is the voltage between hot and neutral with the pump disconnected and then with it connected directly, bypassing the controller?
 
It ended up being that I thought, told them to replace the pumps and it worked fine. Bad pumps, still not sure why it ran the one time we plugged it in but all is well now! Thanks.
 

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