Discuss 0-10v dimming (Lutron) in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

J.C.E

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I have been given a tasty basement job in Fulham
The lighting is by a lighting designer
AV guy to cover lutron RA2 controls- me to 1st fix

Some of the lighting is spec'ed to be 0-10v

1) what is the advantage of 0-10v (as the wiring seems more invloved)- just smoother dimming?

2) is it a case of taking 230v feed>> lutron 0-10v module >> looped in and out of the light fitting drivers- then take a 2core flex from the 0-10v module looped in and out of the light fitting drivers (I am under the impression these 0-10v modules are too big to fit in some light cutouts- so best to locate these remotely in cupboards?

3)there is also quite a bit of 12v light fittings (for things like stair lights and external)
again I haven't done too much 12v/24v apart from the odd bit of LED srip
is it common that most of there fittings wire is series and to take a 2core flex from each light to a remote located driver and then red to black connect these?

Look forward to responses!

J
 
I have been given a tasty basement job in Fulham
The lighting is by a lighting designer
AV guy to cover lutron RA2 controls- me to 1st fix

Some of the lighting is spec'ed to be 0-10v

1) what is the advantage of 0-10v (as the wiring seems more invloved)- just smoother dimming?, better than phase cut dimming but Dali is by far easier to implement.

2) is it a case of taking 230v feed>> lutron 0-10v module >> looped in and out of the light fitting drivers- then take a 2core flex from the 0-10v module looped in and out of the light fitting drivers (I am under the impression these 0-10v modules are too big to fit in some light cutouts- so best to locate these remotely in cupboards?, see Lutron for design as each 0-10V module may only deal with so many drivers and of course different zones will require more hardware, again dali is simpler.

3)there is also quite a bit of 12v light fittings (for things like stair lights and external)
again I haven't done too much 12v/24v apart from the odd bit of LED srip, see lutron for either a switched module for 12V driver or dimmable driver is these need to be dimmed
is it common that most of there fittings wire is series and to take a 2core flex from each light to a remote located driver and then red to black connect these?, you could have both, some may be wired in parallel, if they are 12V led lights, some may be wired in series if they are in fact constant current leds, e.g. 350mA

Look forward to responses!

J
Responses against the questions, good luck..
 
I’ve done many Lutron panels and Wiring... Lutron takes advantage of many lighting circuits in an area. Normally used in High end residential premises. We used to wire a feed to a driver location then cable out to the lights either in flex or T&E. A two pair shielded control cable from the Driver location is wired back to the DMX panel location.

Lutron and crestron switches are wired using the Lutron red and blue control cabling which operates in zones that also go back to a DMX controller panel.

Although this is when Lutron was in its infancy. Your talking 16th Edition Regs. Haven’t been back since then.
 
I have been given a tasty basement job in Fulham
The lighting is by a lighting designer
AV guy to cover lutron RA2 controls- me to 1st fix

Some of the lighting is spec'ed to be 0-10v

1) what is the advantage of 0-10v (as the wiring seems more invloved)- just smoother dimming?

2) is it a case of taking 230v feed>> lutron 0-10v module >> looped in and out of the light fitting drivers- then take a 2core flex from the 0-10v module looped in and out of the light fitting drivers (I am under the impression these 0-10v modules are too big to fit in some light cutouts- so best to locate these remotely in cupboards?

3)there is also quite a bit of 12v light fittings (for things like stair lights and external)
again I haven't done too much 12v/24v apart from the odd bit of LED srip
is it common that most of there fittings wire is series and to take a 2core flex from each light to a remote located driver and then red to black connect these?

Look forward to responses!

J

Similar scenario here.... got Lutron controlling everything from lighting, to curtains, to gates and the list goes on.

Definitely a challenging one (AV company doing final hook up/ commission) that I’ve got to keep on top of :expressionless:
 
1) what is the advantage of 0-10v (as the wiring seems more invloved)- just smoother dimming?

The advantage is that you can dim LEDs well and efficiently.
The driver circuitry gets a permanent mains feed to power the control electronics and then produces an output based on the control signal.
Wheras with a mains dimmable driver the driver does not receive a permanent supply to feed the control electronics, they have to try and use a dimmed/chopped up feed to power the electronics and also try to extrapolate from that chopped up power what level of light output is wanted.
 

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