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Hi All, my first post.
What range of accessories has a socket plate with large capacity terminals? I am about to run a 10mm2 SWA cable to a shed and the customer has asked if I can put a couple of sockets in weather-proof enclosures along the route. Can any socket's terminals take 2 x 10mm2 or must I do some clunky choc block lash up?
 

Pete999

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Hi All, my first post.
What range of accessories has a socket plate with large capacity terminals? I am about to run a 10mm2 SWA cable to a shed and the customer has asked if I can put a couple of sockets in weather-proof enclosures along the route. Can any socket's terminals take 2 x 10mm2 or must I do some clunky choc block lash up?
 

Pete999

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Arms
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Wire the SWA into a garage type CU, fuse down to a 20A OCPD and connect the sockets unto that in 2.5mm2, rocket science it is not.
 

ipf

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Mentor
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Hi All, my first post.
What range of accessories has a socket plate with large capacity terminals? I am about to run a 10mm2 SWA cable to a shed and the customer has asked if I can put a couple of sockets in weather-proof enclosures along the route. Can any socket's terminals take 2 x 10mm2 or must I do some clunky choc block lash up?
You're not frightening me.....but someone's up for grabs.
 
Hi All, my first post.
What range of accessories has a socket plate with large capacity terminals? I am about to run a 10mm2 SWA cable to a shed and the customer has asked if I can put a couple of sockets in weather-proof enclosures along the route. Can any socket's terminals take 2 x 10mm2 or must I do some clunky choc block lash up?
Oh Dear.....Just get someone to do the work that actually know what they are doing
 

FatAlan

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Trainee
Chaps. I believe if you read the op he’s talking about tapping into the 10mm SWA on route to the shed, not what’s happening at the shed end.
 

telectrix

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thinl it would need the SWA glanding into and out of an external double socket back box and tapped off to socket with 6.0mm tails.
 
I personally wouldn’t cut the s.w.a , Take it as one piece length all way down to the shed end and terminate in the consumer unit . Are you sure you require 10mm I almost always exclusively use 4mm or 6mm for shed hook ups (2.5mm if it’s just a socket and light).
Anyway back to the question... then just take some 2.5mm s.w.a feeds from the shed to feed some exterior sockets.
Much easier to terminate
 
Last edited:
Hi All, my first post.
What range of accessories has a socket plate with large capacity terminals? I am about to run a 10mm2 SWA cable to a shed and the customer has asked if I can put a couple of sockets in weather-proof enclosures along the route. Can any socket's terminals take 2 x 10mm2 or must I do some clunky choc block lash up?
??????????????????? are you hopefully not as they say part p?
 

happyhippydad

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Hi All, my first post.
What range of accessories has a socket plate with large capacity terminals? I am about to run a 10mm2 SWA cable to a shed and the customer has asked if I can put a couple of sockets in weather-proof enclosures along the route. Can any socket's terminals take 2 x 10mm2 or must I do some clunky choc block lash up?
I think for your first post it would have been better to avoid the term 'clunky choc block lash up'. This site tends to pick up on wording like that and then the advice given may not always be too polite.

I would question whether it needs 10mm cable. As others have said 4mm or 6mm is usually fine, although we would need to know the length of the run and the max demand of the shed to be certain of this. This would then solve your problem as you can definitely fit 2 x 4mm in a weatherproof socket (and probably 2 x 6mm although I have never had to do this).

If you do need to use 10mm then rather than a 'clunky choc box lash up' in the back box of the weatherproof socket you could have a weatherproof adaptable box next to the socket which you terminate the 10mm into (and out of) and then some 2.5mm H07RN (basically black rubber flex) going into the weatherproof socket.

Of course the OP may be using 4 core 10mm2 SWA as he needs to bond something in the shed! Doubtful but possible.

Do give us some more details Lord Buncefield and don't be put off writing again just because some take the mickey. Just read the useful replies :)
 
D

Deleted member 9648

You are not going to get 2x 10mm conductors in any 13a socket terminations. If you propose to use the 10mm supply cable in the way stated you will have to run it through a separate enclosure, terminate and take a smaller cable to each socket. However your method begs the question as to whether the 10mm is intended to be a distribution circuit feeding a DB at the shed end with RCD protection there, as it would now be a final circuit requiring RCD protection at source.
 
T

Toneyz

Questions to the OP:
What size OCPD is protecting this cable?
How long is the run?
Is this cable protected by an RCD?
Why have you opted for 10mm2, have you done any cable size calculations?
What installation method are you employing?
That's about it I think.
I think you hit the nail on the head in your post-No.3 Pete with the 20A radial from the shed to the sockets or from the house end.
 

telectrix

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You are not going to get 2x 10mm conductors in any 13a socket terminations. If you propose to use the 10mm supply cable in the way stated you will have to run it through a separate enclosure, terminate and take a smaller cable to each socket. However your method begs the question as to whether the 10mm is intended to be a distribution circuit feeding a DB at the shed end with RCD protection there, as it would now be a final circuit requiring RCD protection at source.
or he could fit IP65 RCD sockets, not sure if that would be allowed tapped into a distribution circuit. is there a reg. prohibiting that?
 
D

Deleted member 9648

or he could fit IP65 RCD sockets, not sure if that would be allowed tapped into a distribution circuit. is there a reg. prohibiting that?
No you are right, he could do that....cant think of anything that would prohibit it, but as others have stated, the best option would seem to be a suitably sized final circuit coming back from the shed.
 

Paignton pete

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Arms
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Regarding 10 mm SWA. It may be Nesissary dependant on length of run and loading, but I agree with others that quite often 6mm or 4mm will do the trick.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #25
Originally, I thought ‘What a nasty forum – if this is how you welcome a newbie, I’m out of here’. Then I realised it was Friday night and a few beers might have been consumed after a tense working week. That may have been the reason but was not an excuse.
Thanks to those who made on-topic, constructive responses.

The outbuilding is to be a pottery studio and will have lights, a socket ring and heater spur (but no kiln, thank God) and is 50m from the origin CU, therefore the calc is just into 10mm2 to avoid excessive volt drop.

This new submain would share half of a split board (large house) and outdoor stuff is always at risk of tripping an RCD. A mate has advised me to give the shed and outdoor sockets a dedicated RCD/RCDs and also that I would have a distribution circuit doubling as a final circuit and it should be one or the other (as per Wirepuller).

I spoke to the customer yesterday to urge her to let me feed one outdoor socket from the shed mini CU (local RCD) and the one nearer the house (25m run) from an RCBO in a new mini board within the house. It’s a lot more cost and if she doesn’t buy it then I will have to cut the 10mm2 and put sockets on it as per plan ‘A’.
 

DPG

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Patron
As above, cutting into the submain to insert two sockets does not seem a good way to do it.
 

Pete999

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Arms
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Originally, I thought ‘What a nasty forum – if this is how you welcome a newbie, I’m out of here’. Then I realised it was Friday night and a few beers might have been consumed after a tense working week. That may have been the reason but was not an excuse.
Thanks to those who made on-topic, constructive responses.

The outbuilding is to be a pottery studio and will have lights, a socket ring and heater spur (but no kiln, thank God) and is 50m from the origin CU, therefore the calc is just into 10mm2 to avoid excessive volt drop.

This new submain would share half of a split board (large house) and outdoor stuff is always at risk of tripping an RCD. A mate has advised me to give the shed and outdoor sockets a dedicated RCD/RCDs and also that I would have a distribution circuit doubling as a final circuit and it should be one or the other (as per Wirepuller).

I spoke to the customer yesterday to urge her to let me feed one outdoor socket from the shed mini CU (local RCD) and the one nearer the house (25m run) from an RCBO in a new mini board within the house. It’s a lot more cost and if she doesn’t buy it then I will have to cut the 10mm2 and put sockets on it as per plan ‘A’.
No don't revert to Plan A M,Lord, it's the wrong thing to do.
 

UNG

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Mentor
Arms
I personally wouldn’t cut the s.w.a , Take it as one piece length all way down to the shed end and terminate in the consumer unit . Are you sure you require 10mm I almost always exclusively use 4mm or 6mm for shed hook ups (2.5mm if it’s just a socket and light).
Anyway back to the question... then just take some 2.5mm s.w.a feeds from the shed to feed some exterior sockets.
Much easier to terminate
The trouble is the socket and light in the shed in most cases always morphs into something bigger than was originally intended
 
T

Toneyz

I will have to cut the 10mm2 and put sockets on it as per plan ‘A’.
So how do you intend to get two 10mm cables into a socket you can only get two 6mm in at best on the sockets that have larger bellmouth terminals What is the design current plus protective device are you using as socket-outlet terminals are only rated at so much.
 

Des 56

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You may well have to use that swa to feed 3 distribution positions,the shed at the end and each socket position otherwise a troublesome socket problem could well end up knocking the innocent shed off power if you revert to plan A

I think the 2 socket positions would at the minimum need a double pole isolator and a mcb housed in a weatherproof unit
By the time she would pay for these, the swa from the shed will seem like less of a cost heart attack to her
 
I still stand by my post and believe you need to get someone who knows what they are doing to do the work safely......also you as the electrician should advise the client how the work will be done and not the other way around...... and by the way I don't drink
 
just daisy chain a bunch of these into a 13 amp fcu :)

wickes.co.uk/Masterplug-Weatherproof-Garden-Spike-Lead---15m-10A/p/117877?utm_source=google&scid=scplp117877&sc_intid=117877&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIspWUkJXH4wIVg7TtCh02TwySEAQYBCABEgIu5PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 

davesparks

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Originally, I thought ‘What a nasty forum – if this is how you welcome a newbie, I’m out of here’. Then I realised it was Friday night and a few beers might have been consumed after a tense working week. That may have been the reason but was not an excuse.
Thanks to those who made on-topic, constructive responses.

The outbuilding is to be a pottery studio and will have lights, a socket ring and heater spur (but no kiln, thank God) and is 50m from the origin CU, therefore the calc is just into 10mm2 to avoid excessive volt drop.

This new submain would share half of a split board (large house) and outdoor stuff is always at risk of tripping an RCD. A mate has advised me to give the shed and outdoor sockets a dedicated RCD/RCDs and also that I would have a distribution circuit doubling as a final circuit and it should be one or the other (as per Wirepuller).

I spoke to the customer yesterday to urge her to let me feed one outdoor socket from the shed mini CU (local RCD) and the one nearer the house (25m run) from an RCBO in a new mini board within the house. It’s a lot more cost and if she doesn’t buy it then I will have to cut the 10mm2 and put sockets on it as per plan ‘A’.
Don't feed sockets directly from the distribution circuit like this, there's no regulation about it because the people who write the regs don't expect anyone to be so daft that they need to be told it's a bad idea!

"a mate has advised me" is a worrying thing to state, if you are designing the installation then you should have sufficient knowledge of the regulations, or at least he able to read up on the relevent regulations to do the design.

If this distribution circuit is going to be on an RCD protected way in a CU then it's a terrible design and pitting extra RCDs after it will achieve nothing.
 
I still stand by my post and believe you need to get someone who knows what they are doing to do the work safely......also you as the electrician should advise the client how the work will be done and not the other way around...... and by the way I don't drink
Totally agree
Get someone in who has the knowledge and experience to design the installation. And I would say by original post that this is a new circuit and would need certification. And not being nasty but by the original question is the person competent to initial test and verify the circuit and issue paperwork under part P ?
 
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