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as previous replies. go the whole hog and fit RCBOs. this will also give you more useable ways than a dual RCD board, and eliminate the need for those dreadful floppy interconnection tails.
 
it's in his own house, so he should go for top dollar gear. RCBOs all the way. notlike us oldies where own house electrics were 80% equipment salvaged from job upgrades. 16 sockets in the house, and never 2 the same. CU that complied 3 editions ago.
 
maybe OP is talking about the internal links to each RCD .
 
maybe OP is talking about the internal links to each RCD .
But how would a qualified electrician not know how to do that? Not bashing him, just confused.

Electrician to electrician questions are usually things like 'are my calculations right here' or 'how would you route this...' not 'how do i get power to a board'. ?
 
Don't know if I'm missing something but there seems to be a lack of job planning on the part of the OP
Surely you make sure you have all the materials and the correct materials to complete the job before starting it, as stated previously by others for me the best route would be RCBO's, to buy a CU with a main switch then populate it with a couple of RCD's doesn't sound a cost effective way to get a dual RCD CU to me
 
As I understand it, the OP is newly qualified… maybe doesn’t know how CUs are supplied, whether had to build them from scratch, buy them populated or part populated… split board etc. Lot to think about if you haven’t done them before.

At least he’s practicing in his own house.
 
As I understand it, the OP is newly qualified… maybe doesn’t know how CUs are supplied, whether had to build them from scratch, buy them populated or part populated… split board etc. Lot to think about if you haven’t done them before.

At least he’s practicing in his own house.
I wonder if, and again no offence OP, he did a shorter course or something?
 
A quick search of the usual suppliers are not throwing up ready-to-roll dual RCD link leads with the two lives in one dual ferrule (as you get with a new populated board) only split load kits with 2 Neutral links and 1 Live link.

If finances permit it I'd still cut my losses and go for RCBO's though - much easier!
If you need to make what you have work, options as I see it are:
a) get virtually any 2nd hand dual RCD CU from ebay and steal the link cables. (around £20) This is probably the cheapest way out of the mess, nasty as it is.
b) get a normal split load kit (£15), a ferrule crimper and bootlace ferrules (£10-£30) chop up the live to create a short lead and a longer lead and put new bootlace ferrules on the ends, thus creating two leads with the same ferrule on one end of them. Hopefully they would fit in the main switch terminal side by side. Otherwise you can get dual bootlace ferrules to take two cables but they aren't cheap.

(I really would go for the RCBO's if at all possible!)
 
As luck would have it, I just fitted a BG board that the customer had supplied.

Populated split RCD board, 10 way (5+5)
You can just about see how the internal connections are made.

Connecting Dual RCD board. 01E5945C-CCFA-4AB3-906A-F803F8862A43 - EletriciansForums.net
Note the ferrules crimped onto the ends of the internal links.

A couple of issues. The busbar needs cut. Comes as a 15 way and needs to be 2x 6… but as you can see here, the RCDs are physically deeper than the MCBs, so the bus at sits at a slight downhill slant.
This in turn gives all the breakers a slant and it’s near impossible to get the cover back on.
Secondly, one of the 16A MCBs is faulty, doesn’t click on.
Third. The 35mm knockout for a tails gland is below the RCD. Would have made sense to put it on the right where there’s plenty space.
 
A couple of issues. The busbar needs cut. Comes as a 15 way and needs to be 2x 6…
That is a good thing, as you might want to shuffle the loads around, but...
but as you can see here, the RCDs are physically deeper than the MCBs, so the bus at sits at a slight downhill slant.
This in turn gives all the breakers a slant and it’s near impossible to get the cover back on.
<= this is absolute crap!

FFS we get told in the regs to only use the manufacturer-approved parts so they fit properly, etc, and then we have examples that are pretty much "meh, it goes in at a push"
Secondly, one of the 16A MCBs is faulty, doesn’t click on.
Third. The 35mm knockout for a tails gland is below the RCD. Would have made sense to put it on the right where there’s plenty space.
I'm unlikely to be fitting domestic CU but this has been very informative as a reason not to go with ones of these.
 
the reason the busbars slant is if you push them too far into the MCBs. i never had any trouble with BG.
 
the reason the busbars slant is if you push them too far into the MCBs. i never had any trouble with BG.
Just me. I like to push the busbar as far up as I can, thinking the terminal gets the best grip. I suppose I could set it directly horizontal.

Also, might be the fact the CU is fitted tight in a corner, high up at the ceiling and I was tightening with the wrong hand… made everything slant.

Putting the lid on, kept hitting the RCD button
 
As luck would have it, I just fitted a BG board that the customer had supplied.

Populated split RCD board, 10 way (5+5)
You can just about see how the internal connections are made.

View attachment 90346
Note the ferrules crimped onto the ends of the internal links.

A couple of issues. The busbar needs cut. Comes as a 15 way and needs to be 2x 6… but as you can see here, the RCDs are physically deeper than the MCBs, so the bus at sits at a slight downhill slant.
This in turn gives all the breakers a slant and it’s near impossible to get the cover back on.
Secondly, one of the 16A MCBs is faulty, doesn’t click on.
Third. The 35mm knockout for a tails gland is below the RCD. Would have made sense to put it on the right where there’s plenty space.
Not a bad design overall the dual RCD board

DP main isolation

All circuits RCD protected

Overcurrent protection provided by dno

The lighting on shared rcds would be the only issue with it imo
 

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