Cooker question

[mikep3628]

I am rewiring a house I recently bought and have a couple of questions;

I have a lead water pipe coming into the kitchen and it is not bonded back to the MET. The supply looks like an old 16mm2 cable. I take it a 10mm2 earth is sufficient. Is there any requirement to bond anything else in the property?

I have an oven and hob to wire in also. The oven is a single oven 2.2kW (9.6A) and the hob is a 27A ceramic hob, the manufacturers documents state it should be connected with 2.5mm2 cable, this seems too small to me.

I was thinking of doing the following;

Installing a 16A radial in 2.5mm T&E for the oven with a 13 A FCU.
Installing a 32A radial on 4mm T&E for the hob with a 45A DP switch.

Can either of the switches be mounted inside cupboards or do they have to be above the work surface for access?

By the way, the cables will run under a wooden suspended floor (floorboards).

 

[telectrix]

what's the earthing arrangement? if it's pme, 10mm bonding cable is required. if TN-S you could probably use smaller, but fit 10mm anyway.

your cooker arrangement looks good. although a single 32A circuit using 6.0mm to a 45A switch, then a split outlet, direct outlet for hob, FCU for oven, on one of these would be more cost effective.

advantage being you can have 1 outlet as FCU or a single socket, depending on whether the oven comes with a fitted plug (top).
switches/isolators can be in cupboards as long as securely fixed and readily accessible.

 

[mikep3628]

what's the earthing arrangement? if it's pme, 10mm bonding cable is required. if TN-S you could probably use smaller, but fit 10mm anyway.

your cooker arrangement looks good. although a single 32A circuit using 6.0mm to a 45A switch, then a split outlet, direct outlet for hob, FCU for oven, on one of these would be more cost effective.
View attachment 52983
advantage being you can have 1 outlet as FCU or a single socket, depending on whether the oven comes with a fitted plug (top).
switches/isolators can be in cupboards as long as securely fixed and readily accessible.

Thanks for the info above, I think its TNS, i'll have a look later but will go with 10mm to be safe as you say.

The reason for my cooker wiring plan is that I have all the cables and fittings to do the job without having to buy anything else.