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I am guessing, it might not, but I would think that direct permanent physical alteration to the product potentially affecting its operation would be considered a warranty issue.

If it wasn't a factory molded plug, I would have gotten shot of that in a heartbeat. I might check out the other end and see if there are screw terminals to replace the whole cable at the pump end.
far better to replace the plug. don't forget there's an in-line 10mA RCD in that lead.
 
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It doesn't (void the warrenty).

It depends on the manufacturers.

Some time ago, I did some research on this subject and posted here with my results, as I was of the opinion cutting off such plugs would void the warranty; sorry I meant plugtops :).

I emailed several of the top manufacturers of kitchen appliances, and other devices. The replies that came back were mostly that it wouldn’t void warranties. However, there were a couple of exceptions. Unfortunately I never kept a link to the thread, so I can’t remember who they were. It was mostly to do with using their own leads, but on was just specifically cutting off the plug. Don’t know where they would stand over a warranty claim, if one took them to a civil court.

I would suggest reading MI’s, or ringing them to enquire.
 
I'd go with replacing the plug with a good quality one as mentioned above. It won't affect your warranty or rights. Think about what would happen if the plug got damaged by being stood on for example - you wouldn't throw the whole hot tub away, you'd just fit a new plug.

George, do you have to keep banging on about this on every thread? Some people say plug, some say plug too. Makes no difference to the discussion.
 
George, do you have to keep banging on about this on every thread? Some people say plug, some say plug too.

Plug too!

It seems some people don't learn from their mistakes. The OP is a new member. Let's not teach him incorrect terms.
 
Plug too!

It seems some people don't learn from their mistakes. The OP is a new member. Let's not teach him incorrect terms.

It doesn't help matters, it just means the thread gets derailed and the OP gives up.
 
Think about what would happen if the plug got damaged by being stood on

But in doing so you have damaged the product outside of what could be considered normal wear and tear which, imho, would constitute voiding the warranty. Like if you tripped with scissors and cut a gash in the side of the hot tub, or dropped tea directly into the electrics. Thats human error, your fault. Not something the manuf should have to accept.

you wouldn't throw the whole hot tub away, you'd just fit a new plug.

Indeed because at that point theres no warranty issue to worry about.

Ultimately I am less concerned about the warranty after the tub has been used a few times. As long as the core functionality is ok, i would probably never claim on the warranty anyway. But until its been confirmed not-DOA I will always leave devices fully intact, and keep all the packaging.
 
But in doing so you have damaged the product outside of what could be considered normal wear and tear which, imho, would constitute voiding the warranty. Like if you tripped with scissors and cut a gash in the side of the hot tub, or dropped tea directly into the electrics. Thats human error, your fault. Not something the manuf should have to accept.



Indeed because at that point theres no warranty issue to worry about.

Ultimately I am less concerned about the warranty after the tub has been used a few times. As long as the core functionality is ok, i would probably never claim on the warranty anyway. But until its been confirmed not-DOA I will always leave devices fully intact, and keep all the packaging.
Is your hot tub thermostatically controlled, if yes have you tried turning the thermostat down a tad
 
It is, but this was during the initial heat up phase from cold, so the heater was running full time to get the water from 18°c (current tap water temp) to 38°c Takes a little over 30minutes to get a 1°c increase in temp so it has to run for around 12-15hrs flat out from cold. Once its at temp it will just idle between the hysteresis points.
 
It is, but this was during the initial heat up phase from cold, so the heater was running full time to get the water from 18°c (current tap water temp) to 38°c Takes a little over 30minutes to get a 1°c increase in temp so it has to run for around 12-15hrs flat out from cold. Once its at temp it will just idle between the hysteresis points.
even so, the plug/socket should not overheat.that is caused by bad connection/s, either between the plug and socket, or the terminations into the socket, mainly caused by either poor quality items or wear through excessive use.
 
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We're kind of going round in circles now guys. Thanks for the input.
 
Is the plug factory fitted, can you get at the connections, have you checked the connections at the socket? loose connections at these locations caN cause a high resistance hence a higher temperature, WORTH CHECKING
 
We're kind of going round in circles now guys. Thanks for the input.

Ah but only because you refuse to try changing the plug for a good quality item. Surely worth a try? It is a suspect item.
 
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I never said I wouldnt change it. In fact i said in the first post that seems like the only sensible option. (although i suggested going for a 16a connector instead but a better socket is also worth a try)

But I wont make irreversible changes to a brand new purchase until its proven working as-shipped. If its not, it goes back under warranty / not fit for purpose.

My point was the last few posts have basically repeated what people have already said a number of times in the thread, suggesting that people have stopped reading the thread and are just responding to the first post so theres no point going round in circles over and over again. You have all given me some useful advice and I will be taking action based on that advice. Thank you.
 
I never said I wouldnt change it. In fact i said in the first post that seems like the only sensible option. (although i suggested going for a 16a connector instead but a better socket is also worth a try)

But I wont make irreversible changes to a brand new purchase until its proven working as-shipped. If its not, it goes back under warranty / not fit for purpose.

My point was the last few posts have basically repeated what people have already said a number of times in the thread, suggesting that people have stopped reading the thread and are just responding to the first post so theres no point going round in circles over and over again. You have all given me some useful advice and I will be taking action based on that advice. Thank you.

It's not that people have stopped reading the thread - the reason the advice is being repeated is that it is good advice.

Hope you get it sorted though.
 
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Without repeating what others have mentioned.

How far away from the house is this hot tub situated.

Is the circuit compliant to have <5% volt drop?
 
Just a thought ...
Was it plugged into one of those enclosed "waterproof" sockets, with the cover closed ?
That would restrict airflow and hence cooling of the plug. Our 13A plugs all have a little "heater" in them otherwise referred to as a fuse. Under continuous loading this will heat up the plug - relying on varoius routes for heat disipation : air cooling, conduction down the cable and air cooling from that, conduction through the socket body and air cooling of that, conduction through the socket wiring, and conduction through wiring and case to the mounting surface (eg bricks). I suspect aa good metalclad socket wired with thicker cable will run còoler (all other things being equal) than a plastic one with thin wiring.

As to warranty ...
Cutting the plug off would void your ability to return it because you've changed your mind. It could also remove any manufacturer or retailer provided warranty which could quite reasonably exclude modified devices. However, it could not be used to remove your legal rights should any other part of the unit become faulty. The law is clear that any contract clause that removes your legal rights as a consumer is automatically void and unenforceable.
 
How far away from the house is this hot tub situated.

Its literally right at the back of the house within reach of the house itself. So less than 5m (the length of the cable that came with it). Allowing about 0.5m for the cable to go in the window and down to the indoor socket.

Like I suggested earlier in the thread, the problem of the socket "overheating" is largely solved running the cable to the professionally installed socket inside the house. The cable does, however, still run warm, and that was my main question. Should it.

Most of my research seems to suggest that warm is fine, and hot is not, especially rapidly-heating hot. In its current configuration it seems to be just getting warm. (about 32°c based on FLIR camera)

@Simon47 Thats actually a fairly good point that i had not considered. But i am pretty sure the key cause was inadequate cable and poor socket installation.

Ultimately I think a new external socket, with better quality, and better fitting cable, should solve the overheating issue, but wont stop it running warm due to the nature of the load.

Also @Simon47, the point about the warranty... that was exactly my point. I am happy to alter the unit once its clear it works and i am not going to return it within a week/month/whatever.
 

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