Discuss Mazda/ Ford CANBUS PROBLEMS in the Auto Electrician Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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petef ordham

Hi I'm new to this forum and there looks to be plenty of knowledge on her so here goes!
Basically I am an experienced independent vehicle repairer though with limited knowledge of vehicle canbus systems just a basic understanding..
Vehicle Mazda 2 auto easytronic with just 19k miles 2006 early shape. Same auto box as Ford Fiesta, fusion etc.
Non start so owner decides to jump start but puts leads on wrong way around putting 24 v through system. We only get the non start message over the phone but auto clutch actuator is suspected. Plugged in diag interface on arrival will not power up - no bat live feed on diagnostic port terminal 16. No power to radio abs warning light on, charge light, no central locking, transmission fault light on, all found after managing to start engine direct wiring to starter solenoid. ECU tested out fine by specialist changed one blown ecu fuse all others including main fuses all good. No idea where each module is on the vehicle and need some guidance or help with the best way to go with this as I have reached the end of my knowledge and knowhow. Thanks.
 
Hi dude,reversing the jump leads would not put 24v through,unless the source was 24v,but can cause lots of other issues. Why did it require wiring to starter solenoid? A correctly fitted and charged battery should start it,unless other faults are apparent.
Remember that a standard starter/solenoid will still work the same,with reversed polarity...the rest of the system,may however,have a nervous-breakdown ;)
 
Also the sensors are not all 12v and may have been goosed by the 24v some are in the region of 5v.
You have been very lucky the ECU survived .
I would not be surprised if it has sustained some damage that has not been picked up.
 
Hi dude,reversing the jump leads would not put 24v through,unless the source was 24v,but can cause lots of other issues. Why did it require wiring to starter solenoid? A correctly fitted and charged battery should start it,unless other faults are apparent.
Remember that a standard starter/solenoid will still work the same,with reversed polarity...the rest of the system,may however,have a nervous-breakdown ;)

I thought that too , but was thinking they had the booster set at 24volts.
If they have , they have problems.
 
Hi guys thanks for all of your response. Starter was tested and ok. Battey good also. Had an intermittent non start problem and the easytronic clutch actautor and whole manual /auto gearchange set up is renowned for giving this problem though the owner thought flat battery and jumped it wrongly. One blown fuse 7.5 amp ecu fuse which was replaced. but still no power to diagnostic socket. Have since run a positive battery feed to diagnostic port and read some codes and actually had the car running. Codes related mostly to canbus communication errors - permanent. After running the feed the radio came back to life and the dash momentarily looked normal - no abs or engine management light and actually showing gear selection but still no drive. Another fuse blew whilst doing the read "cigar" but tested the cigar socket and it was live. Really confused by whats going on here with every fuse on the three panels testing out. Oh and also checked the alternator output when it was running and it was putting out 19 volts on the alternator ( Ford/ Mazda smart charge) main terminal whilst battery voltage was 12 volts. Confused.
 
Hi guys thanks for all of your response. Starter was tested and ok. Battey good also. Had an intermittent non start problem and the easytronic clutch actautor and whole manual /auto gearchange set up is renowned for giving this problem though the owner thought flat battery and jumped it wrongly. One blown fuse 7.5 amp ecu fuse which was replaced. but still no power to diagnostic socket. Have since run a positive battery feed to diagnostic port and read some codes and actually had the car running. Codes related mostly to canbus communication errors - permanent. After running the feed the radio came back to life and the dash momentarily looked normal - no abs or engine management light and actually showing gear selection but still no drive. Another fuse blew whilst doing the read "cigar" but tested the cigar socket and it was live. Really confused by whats going on here with every fuse on the three panels testing out. Oh and also checked the alternator output when it was running and it was putting out 19 volts on the alternator ( Ford/ Mazda smart charge) main terminal whilst battery voltage was 12 volts. Confused.
Still confused as to why 24v was apparent...
If no power at diagnostic port,and a "separate feed",livens up other circuits,i would suspect a fuse/power link has failed,and you need to find where.

I would recommend starting at the beginning,and not getting diverted by all it's other foibles...If the battery is good,start there,and ensure ALL power links/supplies follow their path,and get to where they should. I would do this initially,regarding the diagnostic live.

Alternator could be fine,lots of modern systems run higher than standard voltages,and crazy load-shedding 150 amps+ ...A Ford Kuga alternator,in winter,is a good place to toast marshmallows ;)
 
My bad PEG not 24v just high current. For some reason I always understood that jumping with wrong polarity puts 24v through the system. I understand now that it doesn't but its amazing how many do think that after doing some research on the internet. Yes your correct about finding the "break" in the circuits but every fuse panel has been checked out. I also believe that the radio and data link socket are on a common feed/fuse but there is no panel fuse listed for the radio. There is perhaps a line fuse somewhere but its difficult to trace without a wiring diagram. Back feeding the bat power terminal on the diagnostic socket brought the radio to life and the data socket of course. Strangely when the bat pos feed was removed the radio stayed on!
 
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hi have you checked BCM body control module and also check the canbus network by disconnecting the battery put ur meter between 14 and 6 pins from OBD PLUG you should have 62 ohms if you have anything over than that there is a brake on canbus network it could be any module connected to the can or the main cars ECU when the ecu is packed canbus network would give 120 ohms stand of 62 ohms
 
With fault finding on any complex system, you need to break the system down into smaller sections. Don't worry about the bigger picture, go for the +ve supply to the diagnostic socket first. Once you've sorted that, go on to the next fault etc.
When your thinking of multiple faults at once, it's easy to get bogged down & miss things that would normally be obvious to you.
 
Wonder how the OP got on with this !

Hope he was using a good Multimeter for testing, rather than a Power probe.
Seen too many people using a power probe for this sort of fault finding & killing off ECU's.
 
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I'd advise him to get a good wiring diagram for the said car, follow it through the problem circuits. When you check the 16 Pin data connector for a live feed don't forget that a ground is also required at terminal 4. Without both of these the scan tool won't power up.
 

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