Discuss Pricing per points in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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How does this work?
Not exact costs just a number.
Hear people on £50 a point.
So
Oblivious say db £350 fixed cost 10 way.
10 x sockets on ring £50 each
Lighting.
1 x way switch and a pendant £50 Or classed as £100..

2 way switch and a pendant £50 Or £150.
Cooker must be classed as more .

Personally I work on day rate if domestic but only for existing commercial/ industrial customers so happy to pay vat etc.

Just curious how it works.
 
I have found that the only way pricing by point can work is if you work it out for you. No point in working to someone elses price per point.
Take a few completed jobs priced as you normally would that worked out well and profitable, and divide the price by the number of points. Fiddle it about a bit until you get to a price per point you think works for you. Obviously type of job will have a huge bearing on the point price.
 
How does this work?
Not exact costs just a number.
Hear people on £50 a point.
So
Oblivious say db £350 fixed cost 10 way.
10 x sockets on ring £50 each
Lighting.
1 x way switch and a pendant £50 Or classed as £100..

2 way switch and a pendant £50 Or £150.
Cooker must be classed as more .

Personally I work on day rate if domestic but only for existing commercial/ industrial customers so happy to pay vat etc.

Just curious how it works.
light = 1 point. switch = 1 point. total 2 points. a 2 way set-up with 1 light, 2 switches = 3 points.

cost per point downlighters would obviously reflect the cost of the fittings, as would other accessories, i.e. higher cost if fancy accessories like nickel finish etc.
 
my thinking is that anything that has cable/s connected to it is a point. points make prizes. beer money.
 
Price per point is a very crude way of doing work if you are doing lots and lots of the same jobs...

When I started out on council house re-wires the main sparks just quoted £40 per point back then and iirc £60 for the cooker and smokes. It was a very basic way of doing quotes. I think a split board with new main bonding was about £300 back then.

All cheap white accessories and no making good (and very limited testing afterwards)
 
It seems £50 p/point has been banded around for quite a few years now. I think £60 p/point is nearer the mark. Saying that, I prefer to have a think how long it is going to take me then add materials. However, when you first start out perhaps p/point pricing may be a better idea as it is difficult to estimate how long it will take. I would also count the lighting switch as a point and the light itself as a point, therefore £120 if 1 way, £180 if 2 way (as 2 switches).
 
My price per point (which I rarely use these days) is based on LAP screwfix accessories. If the customer wants anything else like MK then 10% is added to my P.P.P

Chrome or Nickle plated gear is priced and added to the quote
 
Price per point has to be 0n a sliding scale price with break points set for multiples and has to include the travel otherwise you end up losing out.
Reminds me a bit of the old measured term contracts that were based on the schedule of rates book published by The Stationary Office, it was incredibly difficult to price and impossible to know that the pricing was right if you won the contract until the end of the 3 year contract
 
My price per point (which I rarely use these days) is based on LAP screwfix accessories. If the customer wants anything else like MK then 10% is added to my P.P.P

Chrome or Nickle plated gear is priced and added to the quote
10%? At your rates? PPP would be 1.5-2 hours labour per point. I know MK is expensive, but it's not that expensive all the same.

Anyone in these parts fitting LAP and screwfix gear, it stinks of a DIY job
 
Unfortunately our wholesalers stock plenty of accessories that aren't much better.
Probably right there, quality is in short supply. That said floodlights aside I've very little bother with anything. Click, Contactum, Ansell, Aurora, EPH, Hager, Zinc off the top of my head.

Its when you go into the likes of Zahler faceplates that you are into real crap territory, I'd put LAP way ahead of that
 

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