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H

hightower

I'm replacing the lights in my office as a trial for LED replacements. Current lights are surface mount twin 6-foot florescents. The lights I'm trialling are these: http://redarrowtrading.com/media/cu...45 - LIN440W-45 - LIN550W-45 - LIN660W-45.pdf

I've worked with them before in a different situation and was impressed, but now I need to think up a solution for connecting them. The current wiring terminates within the fluorescent enclosure as expected. These new LED fittings are a sealed unit with a tail to connect to the supply.

I've got no access from above the ceiling, so my thoughts are to fit in a slimline Wago/Click/Other connector block/box, cut a bit more of a hole out the ceiling, and tuck up above, installing the light over the hole and making it look neat.

However, I don't want to open the ceiling up if I don't have to, so seeking for ideas here. I don't fancy having a junction box to the side of every light, and there's only about a 13mm gap to hide anything behind the fitting itself.

Another idea I had is to create a 2" platform (out of ply) to sit the lights off the ceiling a bit and give it room for a wago box to sit on top of the fitting, mostly out of sight.

Photos to come.
 
I've looked at the Click Connectors, they seem to be the thinnest I've found but are still 23mm, 10mm too big.
 
Just thinking aloud here... if you terminated with Wago lever connectors (without an enclosure) towards the middle of the light, it would meet IPXXB. You would need a deliberate action to remove the light from the ceiling - much like you'd need a deliberate action to take the lid off mini-trunking. You're effectively making an enclosure consisting of your ceiling and the light - it's open at each end but you'd terminate far enough away from the ends so that the connections couldn't be accidentally touched.

For preference I'd make a bigger hole and have a proper enclosure above the ceiling, though, like you suggest.

I saw some cool-looking JBs at Elex called Quickwire that are very dinky - however, they only work with 1.0 or 1.5 T&E.
 
could you not just fit wagos in the channel shown in pics 2& 3. once the fitting is up, they are then enclosed above the light and still accessible?

arrrgh, beaten to it. :D:D:eek:
 
:p

Of course, enclosures aren't just there for shock protection, they are there to help prevent the spread of fire etc. So this would have to be considered.
 
Thanks for wago suggestion - I can see your point totally but it feels a bit cowboy ish.

As for panel, because of cost. Last time I looked a surface kit was £20-30 and these battens I've got are about £24 a go.

As for Ansell, well cost again. I've used these fittings before and very impressed especially for the cost. I've just got to think up a way to hide the connections to make it look good.

There's only my office, the other rooms that would receive these lights have access from about, and there's only a couple rooms. Most rooms have drop ceilings so I'll be getting panels for them.
 
Hi Hightower how is the new job going ?. Is it three core flex out of fitting and what have you got coming out of ceiling ?.
 
Would plug together terminal blocks fit I think they are 18mm high? Still possible cowboy ish.
Perhaps if you have the crimper for them mate-n-lok terminals, similarly enclosed to push fit connectors but with a locked plug and socket connection only about 10mm deep can take 9A or so, should fit 1mm cores but crimping solid core might not be so good.
or if you have a long lead on the light so you can cut them off if you need to replace the light once it fails then just crimp and heat shrink.
 
How about a few square plate washers to increase the 13mm and use the Wago lighting boxes. I am guessing they are around 28mm in height.... But I do think the fitting itself helps form a suitable enclosure once up, so could just Wago them.
 
As these lights are for a trial and you're set on a particular sealed unit HT I'd be inclined to fit a ceiling rose where the wiring comes through the ceiling and connect the flex there, you could reposition the new fittings slightly or use hook plates and very short lengths of jack chain to give clearance.
 
Thanks for wago suggestion - I can see your point totally but it feels a bit cowboy ish.
Funnily enough, that was going through my mind as I was writing the suggestion. I was actually wrinkling my nose at the time, shaking my head a little.
 
I would use gregs and re locate the rose to the side of the light. If not you could batten it out to accommodate a wago light box. I think your being pedantic about wago's resting on top of the fitting.
 
An ingenious solution.... please. {filename} | ElectriciansForums.net


led battens...?
 
I like the round dry line box idea but would still like a cover on like a blanking plate with a hole drilled for the flex to go through.

I thought it if I had to have a box at the side of each light the click ones that plug might look best.

I'm gonna have a play about with some of your ideas today and see which work/look best. I'll be back.
 

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