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Our built in oven works fault free with all functions except for the grill which trips a breaker when switched off. Not while being used but when being switched off.
There does not appear to be any visible breakdown of the element.

Is it worthwhile pulling the unit out and swapping out the element or check for what other faults first?

Regards
 
Our built in oven works fault free with all functions except for the grill which trips a breaker when switched off. Not while being used but when being switched off.
There does not appear to be any visible breakdown of the element.

Is it worthwhile pulling the unit out and swapping out the element or check for what other faults first?

Regards
Willsie, you need the expertise of a white goods engineer, changing parts (elements willy nilly is an expensive and silly approach to rectifying the obvious fault you have on your oven, it could be something simple, a broken wire shorting to earth, or something similar, if the oven is still under warranty then that should be FoC but a white goods engineer should know what to look for, and more importantly have the right equipment to rectify this fault, do yourself and your Family a favour, and get someone in who knows what he/She is doing, it's not worth faffing about swapping parts as you go, let us know how you get on, if you take this advice please, it will be interesting for future reference.
 
Test the element with a multimeter and check ohms reading
He will have to know what the resistance of a good element should be before that method will be useful Matt.
 
Willsie, you need the expertise of a white goods engineer, changing parts (elements willy nilly is an expensive and silly approach to rectifying the obvious fault you have on your oven, it could be something simple, a broken wire shorting to earth, or something similar, if the oven is still under warranty then that should be FoC but a white goods engineer should know what to look for, and more importantly have the right equipment to rectify this fault, do yourself and your Family a favour, and get someone in who knows what he/She is doing, it's not worth faffing about swapping parts as you go, let us know how you get on, if you take this advice please, it will be interesting for future reference.
You seem to be very reluctant to help people and quick to have a go at others Pete, get off your high horse we are electricians not rocket scientists. I'm all for avoiding potentially dangerous DIY work but the likes of changing a light or an element in an oven are simple tasks for many
 
You seem to be very reluctant to help people and quick to have a go at others Pete, get off your high horse we are electricians not rocket scientists. I'm all for avoiding potentially dangerous DIY work but the likes of changing a light or an element in an oven are simple tasks for many
Not on a high horse mate, or being obstructive, simple advice really, swapping an oven element may be a simple job for some as you rightly say, but in this instance I really think professional help is required. Just ask yourself the question, you tell someone how to change an oven element, and they take your advice and get hurt, or worse still kill someone, how would you feel? And we aren't that sure if the element has gone open circuit are we hence my advice to get someone who knows what they are doing, I'm sorry you feel this way, but also step by step advice is verboten by this Forum.
 
Not on a high horse mate, or being obstructive, simple advice really, swapping an oven element may be a simple job for some as you rightly say, but in this instance I really think professional help is required. Just ask yourself the question, you tell someone how to change an oven element, and they take your advice and get hurt, or worse still kill someone, how would you feel? And we aren't that sure if the element has gone open circuit are we hence my advice to get someone who knows what they are doing, I'm sorry you feel this way, but also step by step advice is verboten by this Forum.

Chaps, I don't want to start any arguments over ethics.
All I'm trying to do is narrow down the number of things and check whether there's anything simple I can do (don't say call a white goods expert!) to point to the problem before calling the electrician if necessary.
 
Hi @willsie01 It could well be the switch misbehaving then. If the element is at fault the breaker would go off and could not be switched on again. I think I agree with @Pete999 in that is better to get someone in familiar with servicing white goods. Could be cheaper and you will get a warranty with the repair. There are a few things I could think of it being causing the fault. But you do need calibrated test equipment to check the possibilities. So it is an MCB rather then a RCD that is tripping? You can tell if it has a test button on it then it is an RCD.
 
Hi @willsie01 It could well be the switch misbehaving then. If the element is at fault the breaker would go off and could not be switched on again. I think I agree with @Pete999 in that is better to get someone in familiar with servicing white goods. Could be cheaper and you will get a warranty with the repair. There are a few things I could think of it being causing the fault. But you do need calibrated test equipment to check the possibilities. So it is an MCB rather then a RCD that is tripping? You can tell if it has a test button on it then it is an RCD.
You want to be careful Vorti agreeing with me could bring you some unwarranted flak from certain areas, lol:tongue:
 
I think I understand where you are coming from @Pete999 and what is right is right. I think your comments were very much in line with the ethos of the forum and perhaps you were unfairly defamed there. It really is a difficult line to walk in advising others and thinking of the skill level of who you are advising and potential risks associated with that. Myself I guess it is the switch on the cooker and we could easily jump to the conclusion that it is the element which it very often is. However from what the OP says the trip does not occur when the grill is switched remotely. Therefore a piecemeal approach of try the element oh that didn't work. What else hmm? ah the switch, is for maintenance purposes a wholly unacceptable approach for a professional. As you fairly advised the person. You test and determine the problem then fix it in the most economical fashion. I think @Matthewd29 you might take time to consider encouraging others you have no idea about to undertake work that may be simple but could lead to harm no???
 
I think I understand where you are coming from @Pete999 and what is right is right. I think your comments were very much in line with the ethos of the forum and perhaps you were unfairly defamed there. It really is a difficult line to walk in advising others and thinking of the skill level of who you are advising and potential risks associated with that. Myself I guess it is the switch on the cooker and we could easily jump to the conclusion that it is the element which it very often is. However from what the OP says the trip does not occur when the grill is switched remotely. Therefore a piecemeal approach of try the element oh that didn't work. What else hmm? ah the switch, is for maintenance purposes a wholly unacceptable approach for a professional. As you fairly advised the person. You test and determine the problem then fix it in the most economical fashion. I think @Matthewd29 you might take time to consider encouraging others you have no idea about to undertake work that may be simple but could lead to harm no???
Thanks.
 
I think I understand where you are coming from @Pete999 and what is right is right. I think your comments were very much in line with the ethos of the forum and perhaps you were unfairly defamed there. It really is a difficult line to walk in advising others and thinking of the skill level of who you are advising and potential risks associated with that. Myself I guess it is the switch on the cooker and we could easily jump to the conclusion that it is the element which it very often is. However from what the OP says the trip does not occur when the grill is switched remotely. Therefore a piecemeal approach of try the element oh that didn't work. What else hmm? ah the switch, is for maintenance purposes a wholly unacceptable approach for a professional. As you fairly advised the person. You test and determine the problem then fix it in the most economical fashion. I think @Matthewd29 you might take time to consider encouraging others you have no idea about to undertake work that may be simple but could lead to harm no???
Im here to help it's up to them to decide whether they think they are capable or not. I certainly won't offer step by step advice to someone who hasn't got a clue but I'm happy to help with simple tasks
 
So, I've done a little analysis prompted by some of your replies. Results as follows:
1. The User Manual states that the oven should be connected via "Cooker Control Circuit". I'm guessing this should be a radial circuit dedicated to the oven? The electrician who did the wiring for our remodelling a few years ago has put our built in oven and microwave on a ring main, which I have to say didn't manifest as the problem it's become for a long time.
2. It is the RCD that trips when the oven is switched off after the grill is used. Additionally,I've only just been told this, but the problem only occurs when the oven grill is being used at the same time as the microwave.
3. I tried to replicate the problem by switching off at the socket outlet the oven plugs into. The breaker did not trip so only happens when oven is switched off via touch sensitive control panel.

Any clues chaps?
 
So, I've done a little analysis prompted by some of your replies. Results as follows:
1. The User Manual states that the oven should be connected via "Cooker Control Circuit". I'm guessing this should be a radial circuit dedicated to the oven? The electrician who did the wiring for our remodelling a few years ago has put our built in oven and microwave on a ring main, which I have to say didn't manifest as the problem it's become for a long time.
2. It is the RCD that trips when the oven is switched off after the grill is used. Additionally,I've only just been told this, but the problem only occurs when the oven grill is being used at the same time as the microwave.
3. I tried to replicate the problem by switching off at the socket outlet the oven plugs into. The breaker did not trip so only happens when oven is switched off via touch sensitive control panel.

Any clues chaps?
Yes get an Electrician to do some IR, and RCD testing as well as a load check on the particular circuit in question.
 
my money is on a momentary imballance L-N as the switch is operated, could be due to capacitive charge or other black magic electronics in the electronics of the oven.
 
So, I've done a little analysis prompted by some of your replies. Results as follows:
1. The User Manual states that the oven should be connected via "Cooker Control Circuit". I'm guessing this should be a radial circuit dedicated to the oven? The electrician who did the wiring for our remodelling a few years ago has put our built in oven and microwave on a ring main, which I have to say didn't manifest as the problem it's become for a long time.
2. It is the RCD that trips when the oven is switched off after the grill is used. Additionally,I've only just been told this, but the problem only occurs when the oven grill is being used at the same time as the microwave.
3. I tried to replicate the problem by switching off at the socket outlet the oven plugs into. The breaker did not trip so only happens when oven is switched off via touch sensitive control panel.

Any clues chaps?

Hello Willsie. Did you ever get to the bottom of this? We have an almost identical problem; the RCD trips when the oven grill is turned off. This seems to happen only when the (independent) hob is in use. The oven is plugged into a socket ring and the hob has a dedicated 32A circuit.

TIA

Simon
 

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