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hi guys,

i'm working on "kitchen rescue" after watching gordon ramsey's "kitchen nightmares" (season 2, episode 5)... where a fairly young owner turns round a failing restaurant (that hadn't been cleaned since she bought it 5 years ago) ?

since we're in plague times and my kitchen was become an insect cemetery, i took the approach of sucking up the carcasses with my vac: a fairly cheap tesco model: VCBL1441, 220V-240V, 1400 Watt.

while using vac in hallway socket, I heard a constant buzz from socket, so switched if off immediately... I note on bottom right side of socket, it has trademark "tenby". Now, i have electrical knowledge, but I'm not a trained sparks... Do I:

1. fit a new socket (and hope for the best)?
2. call in a qualified sparks to trace the fault?
3. call my landlord (its a rented property) and let them sort it?

its a flat I'm in, fitted with a new consumer unit, (not sure if I have new color wiring)... running UK power supply (230V AC).
thoughts welcome.

regards nb
 
If it's an ordinary switch socket, with no USB outlets, then the buzzing is probably an AC arc, either from a loose connection to a wire, or a faulty switch.
Either way, a new socket should cure it, although a heat damaged wire might cause complications.
 
hi guys,

thanks for great feedback...? my landlord (god bless 'em) is a council, so has the reaction speeds of a banker being asked to donate at a fundraiser.... ? but yeh, an arc somewhere in the socket or wiring to it sounds highly likely

i did actually work with a pro-sparks who came out and checked all the terminations in (most) sockets (he replaced a faulty socket in the kitchen, too)... it's not his fault, these things just happen over time...

its a bit beyond me to change out mains sockets... (and as brian points out) it could be a wiring issue to the socket... so, yeh... i'll see what my landlord advises first (that will be interesting)... ?

i'll keep a log of events (as is my habit) for forum members amusement (heh, heh)

thanks again, nb
 
just for academic purposes.... ?

theres a few "tutorial" videos about replacing mains sockets on youtube (that peeked my interest).... i know it's a kind of bread and butter job for most pro-sparks... some vids ...well first 2 i reviewed weren't pros. then I came across andys vid (he's obviously a pro sparks).

he didnt re-terminate the wires going into the socket plate, but I noticed he had "chucky terminations" (plenty of copper terminator) and ensured no bare copper wire was showing... so less chance of arcing, right?

he doesnt use any fancy multimeter to test circuit is dead, but instead, a simple "socket tester" that stops beeping, once he's terminated power to that socket circuit... and has an interesting tape technique to ensure CU switch doesn't spring back to live ... (or get turned on by someone else)!

he mentions the "oldskool" wiring too (which most amateurs wont consider). i found a pic of the color codes (for anyone interested).

his enthusiasm and amusing "advertising" technique at the end of the vid gives me confidence to attempt this repair, but i lack two things...

1. a socket tester
2. knowledge of the best "replacement socket" to buy...

i dont know if I can advertise individual electricians here, or even if I can post youtube links, so (hopefully) someone can let me know... ?

kind regards, nb.
 

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Rule number1. Safe Isolation. Rule number 2. Safe Isolation. Rule number 3. Safe isolation before even thinking of doing anything with your electrics. Check with landlord first but you can’t go wrong with videos by GSH Electrical as they teach apprentices. Likely a loose connection or faulty contact in the socket that is a quick job to replace.
 
As above, check with the landlord first as they may well have a policy of only certified electricians doing any work at all.

If you do plan on trying it yourself then you MUST ENSURE IT IS DEAD first, or you might well end up so. Simply turning off the whole flat's power is usually enough, but we have heard of cases where a house was divided up and the odd socket was actually powered from another's flats supply. So test it somehow to (1) show your socket tester sees power when on, then (2) tester goes dead with all of the flat off, and (3) make sure nobody else is going to switch it back on until you are safely done

Take a photo of the old socket before you disconnect anything.

Make sure the wires are serviceable before doing any more, so long enough to work with and not showing signs of charred insulation. If in doubt post you photo here for advice.

You might need to strip the ends to have clean wire if it has been arc-damaged, so you need significant skill with a cutter or best of all get a proper wire stripping tool.

Put in a decent brand of socket, such as MK Logic range (not base/essentials, they are crap) or the likes of Schneider, Click Scolmore, etc. Check which hole is which with good light (so L, N and E) before you try to get the cables in.

Finally check it with your socket tests on completion to make sure you don't have L/N swapped or similar.
 
When reporting it to the council did you mention the fire risk? To be honest, if there is arcing in the socket you should be isolating the circuit straight away and getting it fixed before re energising.
 
So test it somehow to (1) show your socket tester sees power when on, then (2) tester goes dead with all of the flat off, and (3) make sure nobody else is going to switch it back on until you are safely done
Forgive me for being totally pedantic…
4) try the socket tester in another circuit, like the plug on a cooker switch, to prove it didn’t randomly stop working at the wrong moment

EDIT just saw you said main switch, fair enough

Btw Screwfix sell a lock off kit and a cheap 2 pole tester which are handy things to have around.
 
Forgive me for being totally pedantic…
4) try the socket tester in another circuit, like the plug on a cooker switch, to prove it didn’t randomly stop working at the wrong moment

EDIT just saw you said main switch, fair enough
No problem. Generally I would not suggest locking off just the one circuit to a DIY person unless they really have enough skill and a suitable tester to make sure it is dead and no reversed polarity risk. At which point they probably are not "DIY"!
Btw Screwfix sell a lock off kit and a cheap 2 pole tester which are handy things to have around.
Yes, always good to see stuff like that. My own preference are for the simple voltage testers without battery as less risk of needing it again in a few years trashed by a leaked battery.
 
Just looked again, this is just the ticket:
https://www.screwflix..com/p/lap-ms8922b-ac-dc-2-pole-voltage-tester-with-rcd-400v/669hy
Yes, that’s the one I had in mind. Only question is whether it has probe caps. However they state it meets GS38 standards in the answer to a question.
 
Yes, that’s the one I had in mind. Only question is whether it has probe caps. However they state it meets GS38 standards in the answer to a question.
Ah a review says “Excellent two pole tester. Very well made, and supplied with GS38 compliant removable tip covers which are not evident in the catalogue picture”
It does indeed look just the ticket.
 
hi guys... appreciate continued support.... ?

i support electricians and plumbers in my "day time job" (maintenance op), so am familiar with some of the ins-and-outs of fault-tracing...

i keep away from "live working" on mains voltage (of course) since I dont have any training to do so. rather i fix and optimize low-voltage stuff like pc & laptops. i know my way around printers, too. (my qualifications are in software engineering)...

i am a bit of a supergeek, so I take an interest in equipment and techniques to solve problems.. i dont have pro-level wire strippers, a socket tester, or a replacement socket, but it makes sense as @pc1966 pointed out to fit a good brand.

here's some pics of my setup, for those interested...

I noticed - on the tenby socket pic, there appears to be carbon-burns on the top pin (earth terminal). experts on the forum may find this interesting.... :)

as @FatAlan points out, the socket circuit should be isolated immediately.

in andy's (pro) vid, he simply locates the CU switch that turns off sockets, then tapes it down... since only "tenby socket" is buzzing I'll fit a cover over the pins and count my blessings I don't have three teenage kids, a wife and two dogs living with me :)

my CU unit is pictured.. looks like the newer type to me (this flat isn't very old, thankfully)... curiously, i cant find the model of my CU online. it appears to be:

Wylex MSPF-4587 (although I might be reading that wrong, cant see a model number...)

as you can see, "sockets circuit" is clearly marked... there appears to be six circuits in all (which I'm guessing is fairly standard in smaller, modern properties).

as @pc1966 points out my landlord may require only certified electricians to work on their properties. at this stage (sunday) i cant actually contact anyone to report this fault... I am hoping I'll be able to talk to a real person, who'll give me a real date when a real sparks can take a look at this :)

at this stage, I don't have the test equipment to ensure "dead working" and pro-level strippers to re-terminate the wires (that may be damaged) - i know there's various methods of doing this...

if anyone (outside the trade) gets this far, I'd highly recommend only reviewing vids by qualified electricians (there's a few on youtube that give the impression it's a three minute job) but I noticed a lack of:

circuit testing (to ensure dead working)
precautions to stop a circuit "going live"
correct termination and shielding of wires (to prevent future arcing)
no discussion of better socket brands available

regards, nb
 

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Spot on there mate. Good to see someone listening to advice and not just bowling in, and looking for it afterwards…..

Ie “where does this cable go?”


The black may be carbon as you say, but think about the earth pin only carries current when there’s a fault.
im thinking it’s simply wear and tear…. Not the socket but a double insulated appliance with a black plastic earth pin on the plug. The black is rubbing when the plug is inserted/taken out and leaving residue on the socket. (I might be wrong there)

actually. Does the buzz happen only with one particular appliance? Maybe check the plug for a loose connection, if it’s not a moulded on type.
 
Spot on there mate. Good to see someone listening to advice and not just bowling in,

appreciate the recognition. it's a learning curve with mains electrics. ? talking of which....

found GSH Electrical vids, kindly mentioned by @FatAlan

GSH demos correct:

wiring re-termination (including establishing conductor-depth)
grommets
pre2004/post2004 mains wiring color codes
use of pro-level wire strippers.

for apprentices (or super-geeks like me) I'd highly recommend.. he is very thorough. interestingly, he doesnt get as many youtube views as the DIYer "tutorials" (which I find quite worrying) I guess people have to engage their brain cells with this kind of repair.

at one point, GSH finds a double socket with both types of mains wiring (this is where less knowledgeable fitters may come unstuck)... so I'll post a pic for reference :)

im thinking it’s simply wear and tear…. Not the socket but a double insulated appliance with a black plastic earth pin on the plug.

its a good point: i decided to check plug on the vac... it doesn't have the black plastic pin (i know what you mean)... checking inside, connections are tight, but I found my 1400 watt vac has no earth wire... not sure what to make of that? ? 1400 watts doesn't sound like low-voltage to me... [pic attached]

Does the buzz happen only with one particular appliance?

..once socket started buzzing, i've kept it powered down. (i think you guys are right, its a high voltage arc and probably a fire-hazard). i only use it for vac occasionally (since its low-mounted in hallway). but now i'm thinking if I plug anything into it there's gonna be fireworks! ?

my assessment is "wear and tear" too, so a swap out for a new one seems like a safe bet, i just hope my landlord agrees :)

regards nb
 

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