Click Minigrid - concerns of 10 amp rating

[Marcus Vaughan]

Well - I got pulled by LABC on first fix for planning to put isolators in cupboards for built in kitchen appliances.

So grid switches it is then.

I now have a 47mm back box chased in with plans to supply inbuilt fan, microwave, hob (it's gas - just for an igniter - apparently), and fridge freezer. So four switches - and it will be on a 20 amp radial.

Customer has gone for click Minigrid - but they are only rated at 10 amp (the single width ones). You can get them marked up as you know for appliances - but how come they are only rated for 10amp?

It'll be at the end of the radial - but surely if I loop in to the first switch and across to the others then the first contact could see more than 10amp. So they don't seem suitable?

Confused. Other ranges are 20 amp....

 

[westward10]

It states they are rated 13A resistive so I assume they are designed to isolate a one gang socket or fcu. Not sure I would want to terminate 2×2.5 conductors at their terminals.

 

[Marcus Vaughan]

It states they are rated 13A resistive so I assume they are designed to isolate a one gang socket or fcu.

I was thinking maybe get a 32 amp wago or such like in the back and bring lines and neutrals out from that - fuse appliance at plug top. Sounds a bit cosy in that back box though. Horrible.

Maybe I’ll push the customer for another range - I am looking at BG Grid....

 

[SparkyChick]

Just out of interest, what regs did they quote for why they wouldn't allow you to put the isolators in cupboards?

 

[SparkyChick]

I was thinking maybe get a 32 amp wago or such like in the back and bring lines and neutrals out from that - fuse appliance at plug top. Sounds a bit cosy in that back box though. Horrible.

Maybe I’ll push the customer for another range - I am looking at BG Grid....

I've used the BG grid system several times, pretty good, nice range of labelled switch fronts and the switches are rated at 20A. Just be careful tightening the terminal screws... I slipped on one and caught the body of the switch and broke it.

 

[Marcus Vaughan]

Just out of interest, what regs did they quote for why they wouldn't allow you to put the isolators in cupboards?

He didn’t quote any regs actually - but mentioned that once you put stuff in the cupboard you can no longer access the switch when you need to...

It’s that old debate.

I mean, when do you need to?

And perhaps thinks can be taken out of cupboards pretty quickly if you really need to...

 

[Octopus]

He didn’t quote any regs actually - but mentioned that once you put stuff in the cupboard you can no longer access the switch when you need to...

It’s that old debate.

I mean, when do you need to?

And perhaps thinks can be taken out of cupboards pretty quickly if you really need to...

Tell the LABC officer to do one .... Packets of washing powder are easy to move.

 

[buzzlightyear]

Well - I got pulled by LABC on first fix for planning to put isolators in cupboards for built in kitchen appliances

you are the designer for the kitchen stick a socket were you like for the appliances
has long their can be turned off for servicing if possible.eg washer fridge /freezers .the only time is to fit the grid switches if the builder or architects requests on the plans .

 

[GeorgeCooke]

Well - I got pulled by LABC on first fix for planning to put isolators in cupboards for built in kitchen appliances.

Tell them to get knotted. There is no requirement to have isolators at all.

 

[Richard Burns]

The switches in cupboards is a non issue, though I do like them to be accessible; the switches are rated at 13A for a resitive load and any high current items will be heaters which are resitive, since you are supplying plugged in or low current items the switches will be fine as the load should not exceed 13A. The rating is for the switch contacts not for the terminals, though I agree that 2x2.5 in the terminals will not be fun.

 

[Taylortwocities]

plans to supply inbuilt fan, microwave, hob (it's gas - just for an igniter - apparently), and fridge freezer. So four switches - and it will be on a 20 amp radial.

Will 2oA be enough?

 

[Andy78]

You do know Click minigrid do 20A and 32A DP switches too right ?

 

[Octopus]

Tell them to get knotted. There is no requirement to have isolators at all.

But relying on sockets behind heavy appliances and / or built in units isn’t a good idea either

 

[Timbo]

Click Mingrid 250V 32A DP Switch Module - Satin Chrome (MD032SC) - https://www.electrical2go.co.uk/click-mingrid-250v-32a-dp-switch-module-satin-chrome-md032sc.html
Just for example.

 

[Briggs69]

Well - I got pulled by LABC on first fix for planning to put isolators in cupboards for built in kitchen appliances.

So grid switches it is then.

I now have a 47mm back box chased in with plans to supply inbuilt fan, microwave, hob (it's gas - just for an igniter - apparently), and fridge freezer. So four switches - and it will be on a 20 amp radial.

Customer has gone for click Minigrid - but they are only rated at 10 amp (the single width ones). You can get them marked up as you know for appliances - but how come they are only rated for 10amp?

It'll be at the end of the radial - but surely if I loop in to the first switch and across to the others then the first contact could see more than 10amp. So they don't seem suitable?

Confused. Other ranges are 20 amp....

I had the same problem with clicks mingrid but as said if you look deeper they are rated to 13amp.i will never fit them again terminals are shockingly small and screwing them into the plate is a pain.I find hager grids to be the best.

 

[JK-Electrical]

I had the same problem with clicks mingrid but as said if you look deeper they are rated to 13amp.i will never fit them again terminals are shockingly small and screwing them into the plate is a pain.I find hager grids to be the best.

Hager Sollysta Grid for me every time. IMHO their range of accessories is second to none.