Discuss fed up with mixed information from comaonies re domestic applainces in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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below is the details supplied re an oven ive been asked to provide an isolater for
Amperage Information The maximum current in amperes the switch will carry continuously. Please consult a qualified electrician for power supply wiring requirements and to see if this product is compatible with your home.
16A
Appliance Width 60cm
Capacity- Main Oven 71L
country of OriginGermany
Defrost YES
Dimensions H59cm x W59cm x D57cm
Door Glazing Information Thicker glass in your oven door means more heat is contained inside and keeps the exterior door surface cool to the touch.
Triple Energy Rating Information Graded on performance, from A+++ to G, with A+++ being the highest rating. Higher ratings mean better energy efficiency A
Fuel Type Electric
Function- Main Oven Multifunction
Grill Information Output of grill: the higher the output, the quicker the grilling YES
Grill Fuel Type Electric
Half Grill YES
Main Oven Energy Consumption- Convection Information How much energy is used by the oven in conventional (non-fan) mode
0.99kWh
Main Oven Energy Consumption- Forced Air Information How much energy is used by the oven in fan mode
0.88kWh
Model name / number JLBIOS631
Oven Format Information The number of ovens in this unit.
Single
Oven type Information Fan, conventional, multifunction, or gas; for more details, see buying guide Multifunction
Type Integrated

this is the information to hand i phoned the company and asked was the wattage correct as a total and what was the amp was it 16amp or was that wrong
i was assured they checked and it had a plug on it and its was a mistake re 16amp
they needed an isloater or socket for it to be fitted .

the customer had been phoned re them installing it and was told it was 16amp and needed an isolator and relevant protection, Also that it wasn't suitable to be covered by a plug .
i phoned again to be told it does have a plug and isn't 16amp
i can only get that the oven is 0.99kWh although accept that with grill on it can draw more power
the hob is gas .
I've looked on line for manuals and cant find out any to clarify this.
the main problem is its only a 2.5mm cable to a double socket and this may need a 6mm run

why cant companies provide the correct information ?...it does make a big difference
is it me am I missing something ? still cant work out why its 16amp as the wattage supplied would indicate different ,although they are adamant to the customer.

has anyone fitted this oven before that can clarify or point me to a reliable source?

thanks In advance
 
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Is there a rating plate on the appliance?
 
Ask them to send you a photo of the rating plate. Or check on web for that particular model.
the problem is you get a call centre and they allegedly ask staff in the shop to check.
I've told the client we will just have to wait till it arrives to be certain
I've searched the internet and cant find any more relevant information on this model
not the first time I've had problems with ovens being incorrectly marked on the internet
 
Googled the model number, and the hit gives me John Lewis and a pdf for the manual.
The manual basically says what OP said. Gives KWh rating, but not Amps.
The book gives KWh rating for a 'standard' load. What if the load isn't standard?.
From experience, most of these single ovens will work off a 13A plug. Double ovens can be a little over that and require a 16A supply.
Whichever, It will need to be a dedicated supply.
 
Unless I am reading it wrong, it appears to be a single oven, so more than likely 13 amp. They also seemed to have confirmed it has a plug ?
If it has to be an isolator , you could just use a standard cooker one which fits horizontally on a twin back box. The maximum load you have been given ( guessed!!!) is 16 amps, so a 6mm cable is not required , unless it's a long run or run in a hostile environment .
Apologies if I've read it wrong , I just browsed the info quickly.
You are correct though, it's not a difficult question asking the supplier what the kW rating is !!!
 
Unless I am reading it wrong, it appears to be a single oven, so more than likely 13 amp. They also seemed to have confirmed it has a plug ?
If it has to be an isolator , you could just use a standard cooker one which fits horizontally on a twin back box. The maximum load you have been given ( guessed!!!) is 16 amps, so a 6mm cable is not required , unless it's a long run or run in a hostile environment .
Apologies if I've read it wrong , I just browsed the info quickly.
You are correct though, it's not a difficult question asking the supplier what the kW rating is !!!
they confirmed to me that it was a plug, however they have told the customer twice it doesn't and requires an isolator.

if its hardwired it would need to be dedicated supply so the mcb at board could protect the circuit / oven.
there must be a mistake somewhere..
the wattage supplied doesn't add up to it being 16amps
 
I know where your coming from.

I have a pending job, with electric ovens, induction hob, those 'steam' microwaves and one 32A supply. Did my research, diversity cals and thought the oven/hob was good to go. Looked at the hob glossy brochure, and it talked of 'zoning'. Customer contacted manufacturer, who said maximum 'amperage', would be 21A. I calculated 15.5A withy diversity. All that's given in the install' manual is total wattage. :mad:
 
I believe the john Lewis oven is a rebranded AEG oven and 90% of AEG single pyrolytic ovens are rated at 3.2kW which if quoted for 230V would exceed the capacity of a plug and socket connection (just), therefore I would expect to connect this via a cooker outlet plate.
Whether this was connected on its own circuit (the preferred choice) or on a not too heavily loaded ring final circuit should not make a lot of difference. 13.9 A is above the recommended load for a consistent power drain but should not in most cases overload a ring final circuit when the item is an oven which will be on and off intermittently during even a two hour cooking cycle and would generally be on much less than this.
 
I believe the john Lewis oven is a rebranded AEG oven and 90% of AEG single pyrolytic ovens are rated at 3.2kW which if quoted for 230V would exceed the capacity of a plug and socket connection (just), therefore I would expect to connect this via a cooker outlet plate.
Whether this was connected on its own circuit (the preferred choice) or on a not too heavily loaded ring final circuit should not make a lot of difference. 13.9 A is above the recommended load for a consistent power drain but should not in most cases overload a ring final circuit when the item is an oven which will be on and off intermittently during even a two hour cooking cycle and would generally be on much less than this.
thanks for this info.
Just to add to the problems its an old fuse box with no space.
Surprisingly no previous "cooker cable " is in place anywhere. The sockets in the kitchen are on the downstairs/upstairs circuits.
so looks like a new cable run and rcd/ mcb to cover this
 
I'm going to get pyrolytic tonight. If that helps?
haha hope you enjoy it .. mind don't put your oven on if you come home hungry

after pricing the job ...it was cheaper for the customer to pay a bit more for another oven that was suitable for the present installation.
good news is I got the job of changing over their fusebox for a consumer unit in a few months time
 

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