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Hi folks,

This is my first post, I hope you're all well and surviving the lockdown.

Long story short, I had an electrician who was going to do the skilled work while I did the grunt work of chasing and laying cable runs based on his advice. I did my part but he never returned, only fitted a new fuse box (cash in hand), so this has never been signed off either as I was expecting that to happen when all work was done. Tried to get another electrician but twice he never showed either. So, I have done nothing for months about it and with the current situation unable to anyway.

But, now it's time to get the ball rolling again, I was planning on doing it all myself and get building control in. Unless I misunderstood when I looked into the costs, it's was a lot more than I expected ÂŁ500+ WTF! So, I need an electrician onboard again to do the skilled work, i.e. actual wiring up and testing.

I need to get my kitchen completed first, the plan is for that to be on a separate circuit, the whole house is on one circuit at present (plan is 3 circuits upstairs, downstairs, and kitchen).

First question, please see photo, is it okay to run the power cables in/out via the existing cable run route? This runs from upstairs, down the wall as shown and through the "exterior wall" to the kitchen "extension". This is where the cooker power cable runs and there is no plan to replace that.

Second question, as you can see in the photo the switch cable is not vertical to the switch and has a slight dog leg, as this will be replaced I suspect it should be vertically inline? Lights are on one circuit too, this will be split into upstairs and downstairs eventually plus I want it to be switch in-loop for smart home reasons. I know that diagonal runs are a big NO NO, but is it okay to run vertically then small horizontal run to the hole through into the kitchen (at cable (light power in) far left near top)?

Third question, for all new cabling is it best to use pvc conduit? I understand it's not necessary since I have a new consumer unit with RCD protection, the benefit is for future cable insertion/replacement, any advice appreciated. I'll be dead by the time it needs replaced so I'm not bothered, it'll be my son's concern lol.

Fourth question, I have a wall mounted kitchen extractor fan to fit, I have read quite a few wiring instructions and seen diagrams but I'm not 100% on whether a 3 pole isolator should be fitted. They seem to be more a requirement for a bathroom and are just for maintenance purposes. So, is it okay to just use a DP FCU, as picture attached (fuse replaced with 3A)? It is a simple fan that only requires live and negative. By switching off the FCU and removing the fuse, it's isolated.

Fifth question, please see kitchensockets picture, for a small kitchen (plan attached) this will cover my needs, however I read this is the old fashioned way of wiring a kitchen and grid circuits were mentioned! For my small kitchen is this okay or should I be looking into an alternative solution?

Last question (for now), please see the photo two_way_light_switch, as you can see the inner wall is only 2.1m high and the plan is to plasterboard to the ceiling, so when I fitted the two way light switch and outside light I ran the cable through the inner wall and up through the cavity. Later I read this was a NO NO, but in this case, it's a matter of a couple of feet as there will be a gap anyway when plaster-boarded. Any advice on this appreciated.

Thanks for your time reading this whether you reply or not, for those that reply thank you in advance.

Malcolm, desperately seeking a reliable electrician.
 

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It might help to put your location, rather than just "UK" (from your profile).
Thanks, done, it's Carlisle BTW. There's no Cumbrian electricians on the site according to the Local Electricians search though.
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Aggghhh, just realised posted in wrong forum!! Can moderator move it?
 
thread is fine where it is. first point. those cable runs (pic.#1) are in the corner . this is considered to be a safe zone, so new cables can follow route within 6" of corner.. just keep clear of pipes. 25mm is the min. recommended spacing, but id hot pipes i'd allow a bit more. conduit or similar enclosure is a good point regarding pulling in more cables in the future.
second. if the dogleg is within 6" of a wall corner, it's fine (safe zone)
third. sure there are some sparks members close enough to you to complete the works. save funding council worker suits' pensions.
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It doesn't really matter you will get more responses here.
yeah, some of us can't post in DIY. dunno why.
 
thread is fine where it is. first point. those cable runs (pic.#1) are in the corner . this is considered to be a safe zone, so new cables can follow route within 6" of corner.. just keep clear of pipes. 25mm is the min. recommended spacing, but id hot pipes i'd allow a bit more. conduit or similar enclosure is a good point regarding pulling in more cables in the future.
second. if the dogleg is within 6" of a wall corner, it's fine (safe zone)
third. sure there are some sparks members close enough to you to complete the works. save funding council worker suits' pensions.
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yeah, some of us can't post in DIY. dunno why.
Hi, that's good then, didn't want to get reprimanded by mods on my first post.

No, it's not a corner (see wide view pic), the corner is next to the door, the other corner is 3 metres away, so they're not in a typical "safe zone". TBH, theres no other way into the kitchen really. Those radiator pipes will be moved, they're an eyesore.

So, conduit not really needed then, so I'll just plaster in.

Not corner unfortunately, so dog leg not allowed I guess?

Would be good to get some local contacts I can discuss with, but I've heard most are reluctant to do skilled part and let me do other time-consuming parts, I'm just trying to reduce costs as much as possible. I have the funds but they're limited.

Thanks.
 

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The chases in the pictures are not compliant with the regulations as they are not in the safe zones.

Also that looks to be very poor workmanship in my opinion and the regs do require good workmanship.
 
The safe zones are very clear.
Vertically or horizontally in line with an accessory or point.
Within 150mm of the angle formed by two walls or a wall and ceiling.
 
The chases in the pictures are not compliant with the regulations as they are not in the safe zones.

Also that looks to be very poor workmanship in my opinion and the regs do require good workmanship.
Hi Dave,

Thanks for the reply, that is the original wiring so probably been put in before there were regs! Don't know how they're going to be routed then?? I'll have to get an electrician in, cos I can't see any safe zone way to do it!
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the best adive I can give as is to google "safe zones" for cable runs. Those chased in cables in the pictures don't look to be in right place.
Already know safe zones as Googled many times, those are the original cables that I need to replace (except cooker wiring), need advice on how to run new power in cable. No safe zone as door is in corner. Thanks for reply anyway.
 
"Already know safe zones as Googled many times, those are the original cables that I need to replace (except cooker wiring), need advice on how to run new power in cable. No safe zone as door is in corner. Thanks for reply anyway."

Move the sh1tty pipes and chase up the width of the switch plenty of room for the cables there. Plenty of safe zones in any room to get the cables around with a bit of sit down and think.
 
"Already know safe zones as Googled many times, those are the original cables that I need to replace (except cooker wiring), need advice on how to run new power in cable. No safe zone as door is in corner. Thanks for reply anyway."

Move the sh1tty pipes and chase up the width of the switch plenty of room for the cables there. Plenty of safe zones in any room to get the cables around with a bit of sit down and think.
Cheers Dave, Yeah those radiator pipes are going, an eyesore. That's not within the 6" from corner but is vertically inline with switch, so that is okay? Thanks for the advice.
 
Hi Dave,

Thanks for the reply, that is the original wiring so probably been put in before there were regs! Don't know how they're going to be routed then?? I'll have to get an electrician in, cos I can't see any safe zone way to do it!

How on earth did you manage to remove the plaster from the original wiring without disturbing the couple of clips that are holding it back to the wall?

That looks a lot like modern cable too,
 
looking at that photo showing the door, if youmove the light switch to the left, in line vertically with those cables, then you have a safe zone for them. ( or you could fit a twin socket lower down if you like).also, if there is a switch or socket on the other side of the wall, in line, then that will be an alternative safe zone, as the safe zone extends to the reverse side of a single brick wall.
 
looking at that photo showing the door, if youmove the light switch to the left, in line vertically with those cables, then you have a safe zone for them. ( or you could fit a twin socket lower down if you like).also, if there is a switch or socket on the other side of the wall, in line, then that will be an alternative safe zone, as the safe zone extends to the reverse side of a single brick wall.
Only if the wall is 100mm or less thick, most plastered masonry walls are >100mm thick.
 
looking at that photo showing the door, if youmove the light switch to the left, in line vertically with those cables, then you have a safe zone for them. ( or you could fit a twin socket lower down if you like).also, if there is a switch or socket on the other side of the wall, in line, then that will be an alternative safe zone, as the safe zone extends to the reverse side of a single brick wall.
Brilliant telectrix, I'll move the light switch as the switch cable is not vertically inline at present anyway, plus I need to change it to loop-in switch too. Sounds like the easiest option. There is a double socket on other side of wall but as radiohead points out it's a thick wall (once exterior wall before my time). Really appreciate you guys taking time to reply. Thanks.
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How on earth did you manage to remove the plaster from the original wiring without disturbing the couple of clips that are holding it back to the wall?

That looks a lot like modern cable too,
Sorry, missed replying to this one, the plaster fairly easily came off and I was very careful. Depends which picture you are referring to though! The main two way light is new cable that has not been attached properly yet as I was waiting for answer about using conduit. Since I had an answer to that recently I can get that attached properly now. The cable with the door is old cable (don't know how old though as no electrical certificates).
 
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