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OK here are some examples of straight inline joints of equal-size cables. Obviously different configurations merit different methods. For speed, all of these joints were made with a 3.5mm chisel tip at 365°C.

0.5mm² Tri-rated soldered with Alpha Vaculoy lead-free:
View attachment 58467
View attachment 58468View attachment 58469

Next is 4.0mm² 6491B conduit cable soldered with Alpha Vaculoy lead-free and sleeved with adhesive-lined medium-wall 3:1 heatshrink
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More in the next post...
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Then we have 10.0mm² tri-rated, strands interlocked, bound with 29SWG tinned copper, soldered with 60/40 Crystal 511 and insulated with PVC tape. The PVC was applied with a 90% overlap and then a 50% overlap in the opposite direction. Once completed, I cut through the middle of the joint to show that it is solid copper/solder, circular in section and evenly covered with PVC equal in thickness to the original insulation.
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@Lucien I’ve got to say that my friend is some of the neatest soldering I have ever seen. Great job ?
 
member: 120510 said:
@Lucien I’ve got to say that my friend is some of the neatest soldering I have ever seen. Great job ?
Electrons don't give a crap about pretty solder. It can look like a swamp as far as they are concerned.
 
Electrons don't give a crap about pretty solder. It can look like a swamp as far as they are concerned.
The same way computers don't care about how software is designed and written, they just jump through instructions.

But the bigger picture often reveals a large difference in the safety and reliability of systems built by folk who are capable of good quality work.
 
The same way computers don't care about how software is designed and written, they just jump through instructions.

But the bigger picture often reveals a large difference in the safety and reliability of systems built by folk who are capable of good quality work.
Amen. ✝
Seriously.
 
Which one to use?

Those are fluxes, that you apply to parts that are difficult to solder due to oxide formation on the surface. For normal small electrical and electronic work, the flux cores in the solder are enough and no extra flux is needed. For heavy work, the flux and solder are applied separately and that is where this paste flux is used.

To clean the soldering iron tip there is a product (as mentioned above) that consists of a solid block of solder paste mixed with flux. Personally, I don't find it necessary. E.g. I was building and wiring equipment for many hours yesterday, I probably wiped the tip on the sponge 20 times and that was all that was needed.

It can look like a swamp as far as they are concerned.

It can, but it is important to inspect the joint carefully on completion and that is easier if it is neat. If the surface is smooth, solid and uniform, with curved concave edges etc, you can be confident that the solder properly wetted the surfaces, flowed inside and then cooled correctly, resulting in a sound connection. If it is rough-looking, it is much harder to know whether these requirements have been met. It could be a cold / dry joint or it could be fine, the appearance no longer gives you as much information about its quality.

I still say that looked awesome

Thank you! I make a lot of equipment that travels the world under arduous conditions. Reliability is very important and that begins with reliable connections.
 
I want to learn to solder now after seeing those lovely examples!!
I realise some of you guys will be gritting your teeth and thinking "well you should bloody well know how to solder", you're right!
 
It's not difficult in principle, but plenty of practice is needed if you want to be able to join any two things under any circumstances. Different size objects made of different metals with different surface finishes demand different solder alloys, fluxes, tip sizes and temperatures etc. But most important is physical technique - muscle memory - which takes experience.

I'm making stuff this afternoon, perhaps I can post a wider variety of examples...
 
It's not difficult in principle, but plenty of practice is needed if you want to be able to join any two things under any circumstances. Different size objects made of different metals with different surface finishes demand different solder alloys, fluxes, tip sizes and temperatures etc. But most important is physical technique - muscle memory - which takes experience.

I'm making stuff this afternoon, perhaps I can post a wider variety of examples...
If you get the chance to, that would always be welcome Lucien. Many thanks for the effort you take to help.
 
I was practicing today desoldering (with a vacuum pump) and soldering on a PCB, but I have some problems, as you can imagine.
I was trying to desolder some components from a mouse PCB, but I couldn't make solder of component to liquefy in order to remove it with a pump. I have 30 watts soldering iron, and I suspect maybe it doesn't have enough temperature to desolder component.
This is the picture of PCB:
RED CIRCLE - Component (LED diode) that I couldn't desolder.
BLUE CIRCLE - Component (battery connector) that I desoldered, it's the same as in green circle.
GREEN CIRCLE - Component (battey connector) that I soldered, just to show is it good.
My first soldering! IMG_20200627_214755 - EletriciansForums.net
 
sometimes it's easier using a stiff toothbrush to remove the solder when you've melted it with a hot iron. mapply iron, then as the solder melts, brush away from the componemt leg. or try desoldering braid.
 
Should I use soldering iron with more then 30 watts?
depends on what you are working on. 30watt iron will cope with small components. some componebts and/or the pcb tracks will draw more heat from the iron , esp where heat sinks are involved.also, if you are using pliers to pull things out, the pliers themselves will draw heat and reduce the temp. of the joint.I use a 100watt weller gun for the larger work. but care needs to be taken not to overheat the joint and damage pcb tracks.
 
but not the one LIdl's sell.-pakside, they are crap.
 
Sadly they cost more money, but what you really want is an iron that is temperature controlled, so it can be 50W or more but maintains the tip temperature at the correct value for soldering with less risk of damaging the PCB, components, etc.

For many, many years I have used the Weller 'Magnastat' type where you change the tip for both size and temperature setting, but these days you get adjustable ones for less cost. This sort of idea:


But you probably can find others for similar or cheaper prices.
 
and it is also worthwhile to note that a pair of narrow nosed pliers can be used as a heat sink to prevent damage to components when soldering/de-soldering.
 

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