Discuss My first soldering! in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
On site I've got into the habit of just wiping it on my jeans and carrying on, but that's probably not such a good idea if you wear those designer tradesmens trousers that are all the rageNormally you have a slightly damp sponge (not a nylon one that melts) to wipe the tip, but a slightly damp cotton cloth should do instead.
Remember doing the same thing years ago when making circuits on veroboard - picking the tinned copper link wire up instead of the solder. Gets hot quick!Practice makes perfect.
Donkeys years back, I remember we were practising at tech and one thicko was totally baffled. One lad had brought some 60 amp fuse wire from work and we stood back giggling.
We used to have some big 400v 2 phase spot welders. They had two multi pin interconnecting sockets and plugs, army standard and murderHere's a practical example of an inline soldered joint in a 5-core screened cable to a readout encoder on a lathe. The cable had a fatigue break in the middle of a job, so I cut out as much of the worn section as possible and joined it back up. The inner braid screen is connected through (and sleeved, so there are two layers of insulation between it and the other conductors) but not reformed to shield the joint as there is another shield over the top. The joint was sleeved in adhesive heatshrink.
Use the grey type as recommended in post #5 of this thread.I need advice what to use for cleaning tip of solder.
In store there are two fluxes:
Which one to use?
@Lucien I’ve got to say that my friend is some of the neatest soldering I have ever seen. Great jobOK here are some examples of straight inline joints of equal-size cables. Obviously different configurations merit different methods. For speed, all of these joints were made with a 3.5mm chisel tip at 365°C.
0.5mm² Tri-rated soldered with Alpha Vaculoy lead-free:
View attachment 58467
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Next is 4.0mm² 6491B conduit cable soldered with Alpha Vaculoy lead-free and sleeved with adhesive-lined medium-wall 3:1 heatshrink
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More in the next post...
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Then we have 10.0mm² tri-rated, strands interlocked, bound with 29SWG tinned copper, soldered with 60/40 Crystal 511 and insulated with PVC tape. The PVC was applied with a 90% overlap and then a 50% overlap in the opposite direction. Once completed, I cut through the middle of the joint to show that it is solid copper/solder, circular in section and evenly covered with PVC equal in thickness to the original insulation.
View attachment 58494View attachment 58495View attachment 58496View attachment 58497View attachment 58498View attachment 58499
The same way computers don't care about how software is designed and written, they just jump through instructions.Electrons don't give a crap about pretty solder. It can look like a swamp as far as they are concerned.
Amen.The same way computers don't care about how software is designed and written, they just jump through instructions.
But the bigger picture often reveals a large difference in the safety and reliability of systems built by folk who are capable of good quality work.
Eleocmox you are welcome to your own opinion but it still represented the expert work of electricians who really have pride in their work. I still say that looked awesomeElectrons don't give a crap about pretty solder. It can look like a swamp as far as they are concerned.
Those are fluxes, that you apply to parts that are difficult to solder due to oxide formation on the surface. For normal small electrical and electronic work, the flux cores in the solder are enough and no extra flux is needed. For heavy work, the flux and solder are applied separately and that is where this paste flux is used.Which one to use?
It can, but it is important to inspect the joint carefully on completion and that is easier if it is neat. If the surface is smooth, solid and uniform, with curved concave edges etc, you can be confident that the solder properly wetted the surfaces, flowed inside and then cooled correctly, resulting in a sound connection. If it is rough-looking, it is much harder to know whether these requirements have been met. It could be a cold / dry joint or it could be fine, the appearance no longer gives you as much information about its quality.It can look like a swamp as far as they are concerned.
Thank you! I make a lot of equipment that travels the world under arduous conditions. Reliability is very important and that begins with reliable connections.I still say that looked awesome
If you get the chance to, that would always be welcome Lucien. Many thanks for the effort you take to help.It's not difficult in principle, but plenty of practice is needed if you want to be able to join any two things under any circumstances. Different size objects made of different metals with different surface finishes demand different solder alloys, fluxes, tip sizes and temperatures etc. But most important is physical technique - muscle memory - which takes experience.
I'm making stuff this afternoon, perhaps I can post a wider variety of examples...
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