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Just the tip. I would try taking the existing one out (when it's cooled down obviously!) and measure the diameter and length of it.
 
Just the tip. I would try taking the existing one out (when it's cooled down obviously!) and measure the diameter and length of it.
I will check that out, I would preffer if I could install more flattened tip, something like this.
My first soldering! {filename} | ElectriciansForums.net
 
I will check that out, I would preffer if I could install more flattened tip, something like this.
My first soldering! {filename} | ElectriciansForums.net

Yes, that would be better than the fine pointed one for larger joints.
 
buy a 100 watt weller gun. does most work but on smaller joints you need to be careful of overheating. i used one on TV repairs in the 70's and 80's. did everything i wanted.
My first soldering! 1593520176820 - EletriciansForums.net
 
The strands of the main run are parted, 3 to one side and 4 to the other,
I missed out the step ,crafting hole/gap in straight through cable.
(and damaged conductors attempting to form wanted shape -when cold)

(Also ignore peculiar colour choices -and no sleeving)
--Would this joint ever crystalize grey in time ?--

Point of photo --
practice run - "Have a good laugh"

- heat build-up damaging insulation
- solder wicked along making it hard to shape
( Suspect soldering iron was inadequate - Finished
it off with ....

(More mechanical insulation damage )
 

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I missed out the step ,crafting hole/gap in straight through cable.
(and damaged conductors attempting to form wanted shape -when cold)

(Also ignore peculiar colour choices -and no sleeving)
--Would this joint ever crystalize grey in time ?--

Point of photo --
practice run - "Have a good laugh"

- heat build-up damaging insulation
- solder wicked along making it hard to shape
( Suspect soldering iron was inadequate - Finished
it off with ....

(More mechanical insulation damage )
Looks like Alien 3.
 
I missed out the step ,crafting hole/gap in straight through cable.
(and damaged conductors attempting to form wanted shape -when cold)

(Also ignore peculiar colour choices -and no sleeving)
--Would this joint ever crystalize grey in time ?--

Point of photo --
practice run - "Have a good laugh"

- heat build-up damaging insulation
- solder wicked along making it hard to shape
( Suspect soldering iron was inadequate - Finished
it off with ....

(More mechanical insulation damage )
bloody hell. that looks like a plumber's disaster.
 
I missed out the step ,crafting hole/gap in straight through cable.
(and damaged conductors attempting to form wanted shape -when cold)

(Also ignore peculiar colour choices -and no sleeving)
--Would this joint ever crystalize grey in time ?--

Point of photo --
practice run - "Have a good laugh"

- heat build-up damaging insulation
- solder wicked along making it hard to shape
( Suspect soldering iron was inadequate - Finished
it off with ....

(More mechanical insulation damage )
Can I give you my neighbour phone number? He has some problems with wires installations in home.
 
Will a bigger tip help on a 30W soldering iron? Doubt it.

Yes, it will transfer more of the heat to the joint due to the larger contact area. Admittedly it will still struggle with the bigger things on that PCB.
 
Yes, it will transfer more of the heat to the joint due to the larger contact area. Admittedly it will still struggle with the bigger things on that PCB.
The problem (as mentioned in My first soldering! - https://www.electriciansforums.net/threads/my-first-soldering.186729/post-1639486) is I guess lead-free joints that my soldering iron is not capable to melt due to low heating temperature. I have used sides of tip for larger contact area on joint but no success. Only thing that worked was adding 60/40 solder on joint and then melt it and removed with pump.
How can you tell is solder lead free or not ?
Visually solder joints on PCB look a bit darker, but maybe it's because of time pass.
 
I remember melting solder in a candle aged 10 or so.
( I got my father to solder wires to pcbs )
.. Solid wire wrap wire being a pain for losing it's insultion springs to mind .. But shame of end result prevents any memeory !
 
I remember using fuse wire to wrap cables together before soldering, my mother never did figure out why all the fuse wire out of the broom cupboard was missing, or how the little burn marks got on the eiderdown, or so we thought.
 
I bought 60W soldering iron, and now I can easily desolder components from PCB, which I couldn't with 30W iron due to lead-free joints.
I must say that 60W is a bit stronger/hotter then I would like to, I think 50W would be perfect for all. I just need to work a bit faster with 60W.
 
Buying a soldering station as suggested at the beginning of this thread, you can adjust the temperature to that required for the task, it's a false economy to keep buying soldering irons at different wattage's to get over the problems encountered.
 
Buying a soldering station as suggested at the beginning of this thread, you can adjust the temperature to that required for the task, it's a false economy to keep buying soldering irons at different wattage's to get over the problems encountered.
I didn't bought station because I still don't need it, and it's a bit expensive compared to my needs. I could've buy cheaper ZD-99 station for 20 euros, but if I buy station I will buy really quality station, but that's in the future, just not now.
 
For desoldering on PCBs applying some flux from a flux pen to the joints before desoldering will often help a lot. I've been using temperature controlled soldering stations for the last 17 or so years and wouldn't be without now. I do use a standard 80W iron for soldering larger wires such as shown in Luciens example above as they can dump a lot of heat into the joint so it can be soldered fast before all the insulation starts melting. A higher wattage iron is needed for most modern pcbs that have more than one track layer, some multilayer boards can have substantial amounts of copper in the inner layers for power rails that can sink the heat away. If the joint isn't heated up enough the plated through holes can be damaged when the component lead is pulled out.

My current iron for PCB work is a 130W JBC, a fantastic tool, bit rather expensive...
 

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