Replacing bathroom pull switch with dimmable pull switch

[Richard Cook]

Hi folks,

I’m replacing my bathroom pull cord switch with a quieter one (that has a dimmer function that we’ll probably never use) and the original one had the live to COM and neutral (with brown sleeve) to L1. However this new pull switch has a IN L and N and a LOAD L and N and I’m a bit confused.

Photos attached. Any help?

 

[Squid]

Some switches need a neutral, if you are never going to use the dimming function then just fit a standard pull cord.

Also what type of lights do you have?

 

[Midwest]

Think OP was just after a quieter pull, most are friggin clunky.

 

[Squid]

Think OP was just after a quieter pull, most are friggin clunky.

Fit a PIR then.

 

[Squid]

I think I know a way to get that to work, but as the OP is a DIY'er I don't think it's a good idea.

 

[Toneyz]

It could be just terminals for the convenience of wiring. Dimmer switches don't usually need a neutral.

 

[Squid]

It could be just terminals for the convenience of wiring. Dimmer switches don't usually need a neutral.

Would be handy to know the make and model of the switch.

 

[Wilko]

Hi - the new switch has incoming L and N terminals, whereas your existing wiring has L only and then the sleeved Switched L as output. So you could try it without the N, or perhaps take it back (?). In my experience the pull switches are all clunky I'm afraid - this is one that claims to be "quieter" and might be worth a try. It's certainly not silent, but it's perhaps less clunky than some.
6 Amp 1 Way Ceiling Pull Cord Switch - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CM2781.html

 

[Marcus Vaughan]

the original one had the live to COM and neutral (with brown sleeve) to L1.

That’s not a neutral at your original switch - that’s a switch line (that becomes live when the pull chord is - erm - pulled!

Maybe the instructions you have with your new switch will tell you that you need a neutral....

Beaten to it by Wilko!
What’s this, fastest fingers first?

 

[Squid]

I bet its the wife that's having a moan........

 

[Richard Cook]

Haha thanks for all the replies.

The pull switch is this one Eterna Bathroom Light Pull Switch Soft Pull No Click Dimming | Electrical World - https://www.electricalworld.com/en/Eterna-Bathroom-Light-Pull-Switch-Soft-Pull-No-Click-Dimming/m-1605.aspx and I’ve managed to wire it up and it’s working. I have attached the instructions and my finish wiring.

The switched live (LOAD) went in the L LOAD and I put the live (SUPPLY) in the L terminal. It works so I hope it’s right?

 

[DPG]

Nice one - neutral not required. So it's easy to get it going then!

 

[westward10]

I assume those two proud screws over the two IN and LOAD terminals are not used to secure the wires?

 

[Toneyz]

This has been installed incorrectly. The sheath of the cable must enter the enclosure of the fitting. Even if you now bring the cable in one of the knockouts there is a hole in the enclosure. Unless around fast fix box or conduit box is now used this is non-compliant with the regs.

 

[Richard Cook]

It has a little box that goes over (screws into those proud screw holes) that protects it.

 

[Toneyz]

But the gray sheath does not enter the fitting.

 

[westward10]

But the gray sheath does not enter the fitting.

Now he has the internal cover on you can see it isn't really designed for one switch cable more one cable in one side and one cable out the other.

 

[Toneyz]

It's not right though is it, poor design for what is in most cases one cable.

 

[Toneyz]

I bet the cover is not metal just plastic would be better not to have the internal cover and dress the cables round.

 

[Richard Cook]

I agree. It’s weird that the grey cable doesn’t enter the plastic fitting. It was £30 too! Thought it would’ve been a bit more thought through...