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I got called out to a faulty shower pull cord a couple of weeks ago. As I was lowering it from the back box, all the cables popped right out of the terminals. Obviously the guy hadn't bothered re-tightening after initially pushing the switch into place to seat the cables.
The owner then started telling me how impressed he had been with the electrician, as "only a few weeks before fitting the shower he had been a photographer".
I just smiled....

So, in my opinion....yes, most shower pull cord problems are down to installation.
 
Ive found that the switches/pull cords with 2 terminal screws are pretty good, is it crabtree that do them? Its been a while since ive came across one.
 
The Crabtree (or cheaper identikit Scolmore one) iso is great as you mount the base first, and the connections are on that, rather than having to pee about with upside down cable. 10mm nice and tight = no problem.
 
If you rely on the MCB can you argue you have double pole isolation?

No need to argue, BS7671:2008+A1:2011 537.1.2 & 537.2.1.1 allows single pole isolation if it's a single phase TN system. Double pole isolation though is required for a single phase TT system.
 
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On the manufacturers instructions arguement, how many of you bond kitchen sinks? They still ask for this to be done and most have an earthing/bonding tag still.

As for double pole isolation for the shower( how often it is required) it could be argued that the isolator at the board is to requirements, i know it might result in total darkness if isolated but seeing as it would only be used in an emergency then not too much of a problem
 
They take a little time to do a good job on (ceiling pull cord switches). Last one I did was a good paying job, so I went right over the top and spent AGES doing it.

Even with 10mm2, if you make sure the two cables enter the ceiling pattress the right way in relation to the terminals, cut all cores to absolutely the right length (so no attempt to squish is required), and leave clipping the cables to joists until AFTER the switch is screwed tight, then it can be made to fit like a glove.

Which is why I still chuckle thinking about a one day rewire. Would take a 1/4 of that to do the pull cord (properley).

Bayonet fixed!
 
I really can't see a problem with fitting an isolator pull cord. Just get a deep enough back box (I've seen some installed barely deep enough to fit the switch in), and take your time. As Spartykus says, it's about working methodically.
Now, having to replace one that someone's managed to fit above a 6 inch gap between the loo and bath is a different matter entirely, especially if they've taken a 2.5mm feed to an SFCU for a fan from it as well...
 
you been following me? :drool5:
 

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