Discuss Socket overload danger? in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Welcome to ElectriciansForums.net - The American Electrical Advice Forum
Head straight to the main forums to chat by click here:   American Electrical Advice Forum

Reaction score
0
In my kitchen there is a "Socket On Off" switch in the same console as the cooker master on/off switch. The cooker switch is almost always off.
An extension lead to the "Socket On/Off" switch has the following appliances attached
1. 14.5w low energy lamp
2. Microwave over 650 W output
3. Microwave oven 850 W output
4. Electric kettle "2500 - 3000 kW"
5. Toaster "965 -1150 W"

I suspect that in total the above exceeds the safe load limit for the socket so I try never to have all appliances switched on simultaneously. Could someone please tell me how near the limit I am - or even if I would exceed it - so that I can work out what combination of appliances can in fact be run simultaneously. [The electric kettle is obviously the key component] Tks
 
first find a different socket to plug the kettle into. the xtension lead should cope with the rest, although not ideal, it's 13A fuse will blow if overloaded.
 
Logical solution I accept but "finding a different socket" would be far more hassle than applying informed common sense as I have tried to do up to now. >> If the kettle is switched on what leeway do I have to use any of the other items at the same time? There is a consumer unit installed in case of an overload but obviously I would prefer not to use it in the first place. Tks
 
kettle is 13A, your cooker circuit (includibg the attached socket) is generally 32A, so plenty to cope. esp. as the kettle is onlyon for a few minutes at a time. the only worry could be the extension lead overheating or contacts burning out, as the are only designed for 13A tops.
 
Thanks that was my confusion - the limit of my "kitchen socket".
To prevent extension lead melt down, as you advise, how can I calculate the amps taken by my various appliances in order to stay within 13 A overall? I have forgotten the conversion factor. I think my UK voltage is 230V?
 
divide watts by voltage, e.g. kettle 3000watts/230V = 13.04A.
 
Your extension lead plug has a 13amp fuse in it. That will limit the current to anything that is connected.
Note that the actual current, where a BS 1362 fuse will blow, is about 1.66 times the rated value, so for a 13A fuse this will be 21.6A. Multi-way extension leads are not designed to sustain that sort of current, they will and do die horribly.

I think my UK voltage is 230V
230v is the nominal voltage. This is roughly + or - 10% of the nominal. 240v is more the average.

Very very bad idea to run these sort of appliances from an extension lead of any sort. The manufacturer's instructions usually will tell you not to. I know its a faff to do things properly, if you cant have enough sockets installed, invest in a smoke alarm, and a fire extinguisher.
 
Thanks. The conclusion that I have arrived at is not to use the kettle in conjunction with anything else, only solo, in addition to my smoke alarm and fire extinguisher. May not tick all the boxes, but is what gut feel has been telling me over the past umpteen years. Hopefully sticking to 13 A rather than 21.6 overall will provide a certain safety margin.
 
whu not just get a local sparks in th add a couple of strategically placed sockets?
 
I would not rule that out though it would not be simple. In the interim I'm thinking of using a 2-way adaptor (correct term?) to split the kettle circuit off from the other appliances to provide an extra safety margin in case I switch it on "by mistake".
 
those splitters are satan's tools. even worse than your extension lead.
 
In my kitchen there is a "Socket On Off" switch in the same console as the cooker master on/off switch. The cooker switch is almost always off.
An extension lead to the "Socket On/Off" switch has the following appliances attached
1. 14.5w low energy lamp
2. Microwave over 650 W output
3. Microwave oven 850 W output
4. Electric kettle "2500 - 3000 kW"
5. Toaster "965 -1150 W"

I suspect that in total the above exceeds the safe load limit for the socket so I try never to have all appliances switched on simultaneously. Could someone please tell me how near the limit I am - or even if I would exceed it - so that I can work out what combination of appliances can in fact be run simultaneously. [The electric kettle is obviously the key component] Tks
If you want to work it out, my personal (very approximate) approach is to say 1000 watts takes 4amps (or 250watts takes 1 amp etc.) so you do the maths. If you want to be accurate, and you know your mains voltage (eg 240) use the laws of physics: Amps = Watts divided by Volts.
 
So that would allow me to run 1 kettle's worth of current through my extension with only a fraction to spare. Whilst I am sure that I must have exceeded this on many occasions in the past, caution tells me that it would be better to split the circuits as above taking into account what this thread has told me.
 
your extension lead is protected by it's plug fuse, 13A. this will tolerate upto 20A for short periods. those splitteradaptors have no protection from the contacts being stressed by hanging plugs and cords from them and are a fire risk. if you have one, bin it.
 
The contacts in the wall-mounted socket that is part of the cooker control switch are rated for 13A maximum (although the cooker circuit would generally be 32A, the socket is a regular 13A socket.) If you plug in a fused adaptor, the fuse in that will protect it and the socket, but like a plug fuse will run hot if marginally overloaded until it blows. If you have an old unfused adaptor, that would defeat the fuse protection and allow you to substantially overload the wall-mounted socket.

Note also that the current consumption of a microwave oven is significantly higher than the figure you would get if you divide the cooking output wattage by the voltage. Allow 5-6A for a microwave up to 900W.
 
move some of those appliances to another socket, even if it is in another room!

An electrician could use the cooker cable to supply a small garage type distribution board, and from that a group of sockets. protected properly, for you to power everything safely. You must have a very small kitchen or very badly designed locations for sockets.
 
The above advice, tks, would seem in total to overrule what I concluded was the logical solution: To have a "circuit splitter" plugged into the cooker console socket that would separate the output from the 32 A supply into two independent circuits each protected by a 13 A fuse. I don't know if such a gismo (hardly rocket science) exists, but the vibes I seem to be getting if I have understood correctly are to forget it?
 
..that would separate the output from the 32 A supply into two independent circuits each protected by a 13 A fuse. I don't know if such a gismo (hardly rocket science) exists...
It does exist. It is a double 13A socket fitted to the wall and part of either the ring circuit or a suitably rated cable spur taken off the cooker's supply.

Really a multi-socket extension block is only suited to things like computers / TV setups where the total load is below 13A (3kW) but you have multiple low power things all needing power.

Once you have any two items that will go over 13A you should not be looking at that at all. Even a double socket is only rated at 20A total, so if you are planning on having two approx 3kW loads plugged in (e.g. washing machine and tumble dryer) you are better to fit two single 13A sockets.
 

Reply to Socket overload danger? in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

OFFICIAL SPONSORS

Electrical Goods - Electrical Tools - Brand Names Electrician Courses Green Electrical Goods PCB Way Electrical Goods - Electrical Tools - Brand Names Pushfit Wire Connectors Electric Underfloor Heating Electrician Courses
These Official Forum Sponsors May Provide Discounts to Regular Forum Members - If you would like to sponsor us then CLICK HERE and post a thread with who you are, and we'll send you some stats etc

Electrical Forum

Welcome to the Electrical Forum at ElectriciansForums.net. The friendliest electrical forum online. General electrical questions and answers can be found in the electrical forum.
This website was designed, optimised and is hosted by Untold Media. Operating under the name Untold Media since 2001.
Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock