Discuss Supply to summer house. in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

PAD66

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Been asked to install 3 X sockets 1 X light 1 X PIR light into a summer house. The building is 45 mtrs away from the house and I'm unable to wire back to the board. My plan is to take a fused spur of the ring and use a 4mm SWA to feed the summerhouse. In summerhouse I intend to install a 2 way garage unit for the circuits. My query is would you use a RCD main switch or a normal isolator. The ring Is RCD protected already. My other question is this a minor works or installation certificate. My thoughts are minor works as it is an alteration to an existing circuit.
Thanks.
 
Have you worked out the Volt drop for the run PAD? 45m sounds quite a long way. Also, I know it's perfectly acceptable to take a spur for shed power but it would be better to have a seperate MCB.

There really isn't any point in having 2 rcd's on the same circuit, it's already got RCD protection from the main CU.

I was about to say minor works cert (MWC) as you're not adding a new circuit, but you are installing a CU... so it's notifiable and would need an electrical installation cert (EIC)... I think... tired...someone else will confirm!
 
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Done a calc for volt drop 4mm is ok, did think of using 6mm but thought it was a bit over the top as it just running a fridge and a couple of lights. Got a log burner in there so not going to be used for heat. Did think of just using a double pole switch and FCU for the lights.
 
For what it costs I'd just stick a bigger cable in.

the spur element of it only needs a minor works but the new CU needs an EIC, however, you should be able incorporate both into the EIC.
 
The supply is only going to ha e a 13A fuse in it, so whatever you put in the garage unit will need to be smaller for them to be of any benefit I suppose, Hager do MCBs starting at 1A.
 
What is the point of installing a CU in this shed? If the supply is already fused at 13A then the MCBs won't be achieving very much at all!

This smacks of very poor design!
 
Your right there is no point in fitting a CU, overthinking it as usual. Just stick with a FCU at the house and just use a 20 amp switch at the Summerhouse to isolate and fuse the lights down. Wants going back to the board really, but no way to it without major alterations.
 
A 20A switch to isolate and fuse the lights?

If it needs major work then do major work, bodging it because you don't want to do it properly is hardly a professional approach
 
Will your installation be safe then???? as for certificate you are an electrician, should you be asking these question??
 
A 20A switch to isolate and fuse the lights?

If it needs major work then do major work, bodging it because you don't want to do it properly is hardly a professional approach

Unfortunately in the real world Dave there's a point where cost can outweigh the benefit and you have to compromise on how you do the job to keep it affordable - obviously not cutting corners with safety or contravening regs but a 13amp supply is usually perfectly adequate for a summer house where electric heating isn't required - I have 3 sheds running off one FCU at the house, never blown the fuse yet. Lights simply run from seperate FCUs C/W 3 amp fuses. :smiley2:
 
Don't take this as criticism of the OP, it's not intended to be, but I cant help but wonder at such a simple installation confusing an NICEIC DI......Maybe the NICEIC need to have a look at the level of experience required as an approved DI.
If I was really cynical I might think just for a moment that all they are interested in is the fees.....surely not?
 
I am also not going to try to upset the OP, all I will say is the whole design is wrong and IMO another good think about the whole installation should be considered.
 
Still too many posts that come across as rather hostile on here IMO. :(

You're reading them wrong.
It is perfectly reasonable for a forum of professional electricians to question the installation, design, and certification of a person who is supposed to be entirely competent in carrying out the said tasks and who is asking for advice and criticism of the proposed works.

I think that the issue of competency in the workplace in our industry, and making sure that the question asked is guided in the right direction to produce a safe and compliant job is of far greater import than worrying about inferred tones on an internet forum.
 
Unfortunately in the real world Dave there's a point where cost can outweigh the benefit and you have to compromise on how you do the job to keep it affordable - obviously not cutting corners with safety or contravening regs but a 13amp supply is usually perfectly adequate for a summer house where electric heating isn't required - I have 3 sheds running off one FCU at the house, never blown the fuse yet. Lights simply run from seperate FCUs C/W 3 amp fuses. :smiley2:

What you do in your own house is up to you, but if you sell that to a customer as an installation design then that's a different matter.

I don't see how spurring from a ring circuit to feed a summer house gives good segregation of circuits or minimises the potential disruption in the event of a fault.
 
I understand your point Andy but there's a lot to be said for guiding people rather than scaring them away never to seek advice again. The issue of competency in our trade is a very thorny one indeed, with monotonous regularity I come across work by 'registered' electricians which is rough beyond belief , they generally put all the right stickers on though.
 
My gripe is not with the OP, (who clearly has taken the correct course in asking for advise which proves he wants it to be right)....but with the NIC. Personally I don't think it's unreasonable to expect an installer registered as competent by the NICEIC to be able to design an install like this without assistance
 
What you do in your own house is up to you, but if you sell that to a customer as an installation design then that's a different matter.

I don't see how spurring from a ring circuit to feed a summer house gives good segregation of circuits or minimises the potential disruption in the event of a fault.

All I'm saying is that practicalities need to be considered, in my case it was the simplest safe option, much easier than getting a dedicated supply right round the other side of the house with the associated disruption. The only way to achieve truly minimal disruption in the event of a fault is exclusive use of RCBOs and in my experience 60-70% of customers don't see the benefit and don't want the additional cost.
 
To be fair to all in this thread including the op, the questions are pretty basic and anyone undertaking the work as a professional tradesman should know the answers to those questions and if they don't they shouldn't be working alone, That's not a dig at the op but a valid point. As for member replies to be fair I don't see anything nasty or argumentative just genuine concern, sometimes text can come accross the wrong way but is not meant that way. A couple of members have raised concerns about the installation method and design which for me is what the forum is here for.
 

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