Discuss Which MFT - 1711 or 1721? in the Electrical Tools and Products area at ElectriciansForums.net

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mattg4321

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I think my trusty 9 year old 1553 is giving up the ghost.:( I have started getting erratic readings. When on continuity setting the value moves around when you touch the leads. Have some new leads knocking around and same problem. Also had a couple of problems with the 13A plug top lead doing similar. Think its probably time to bite the bullet.

I've been looking at the new Meggers and I'm not sure I really need the 1721, but I wanted to check with people on here who have no doubt made the same change as I'm about to make. If I move from the 1553 to 1711 is there anything I'm going to miss? It seems like it can't handle doing line-line tests, but to be honest I can't remember the last time thats really been helpful for me.

Opinions welcome! Cheers
 
If your works mainly domestic then go with the 1711 it’s cheaper.
The 1721 will allow phase to phase pfc testing and has more variation for rcd testing including I think B types (I’ve never come across a B type yet) and more variations of IR voltages but I don’t know why you need anymore than the standard 250,500 and 1000 volts D.C.
I had a 1552(16th edition test meter as displayed on the original packaging) and it give up the ghost earlier in the year and I’m left with a company kewtech kt64 which I’m actually getting to like tho I don’t like having to use 3 leads when doing a rcd test or zs/ze testing unlike the megger which was 2 lead unless testing zs on low current setting
 
1553 has occasionally problems with the soldered connections on back of 4mm sockets. these are paralled in with the 3 pin socket.a quick dab of solder cures.
 
1553 has occasionally problems with the soldered connections on back of 4mm sockets. these are paralled in with the 3 pin socket.a quick dab of solder cures.
Trouble is how am I going to know without peeling off the calibration tamper resistant sticker or paying ££ to get it looked at? Been burnt recently trying to be clever and keep a van going that had been good to me for years when it should've been time to get rid!
 
I expect the 1711 will be more than sufficient for just domestic. Although I was in the same dilema a few months back and ended up going for the 1731 purely as it has a rechargeable port, whereas with the 1711 and 1721 I believe you have to take the batteries out to recharge them.

Perhaps not the best of reasons to spend an extra £300, but I just think it would be a right pain not to be able to recharge the machine easiliy.
 
If you intend replacing the MFT, what harm would it do to remove the sticker and try Tel’s fix?
As for which model, I would go to Test-Meter.co.uk’s site (link on the right of your page) and compare the two models.
Tick the functions you want your MFT to have and see which model has what.
 
well it might be worth putting it up on ebay highlighting its failings, might even be worth a cheap calibration on one of the open days at the wholesalers to boost its value. at least then you get an idea of its reliability.I am sure there will be somebody starting out or a diyer who wants one a bit cheaper than usual for training or practice etc...
anything you get for it can go towards a new tester.
 
I expect the 1711 will be more than sufficient for just domestic. Although I was in the same dilema a few months back and ended up going for the 1731 purely as it has a rechargeable port, whereas with the 1711 and 1721 I believe you have to take the batteries out to recharge them.

Perhaps not the best of reasons to spend an extra £300, but I just think it would be a right pain not to be able to recharge the machine easiliy.

That’s the sort of thing I would do if I can afford it, or else I’ll save a bit longer just to make life simpler, which means I’m more likely to do it it when in a hurry, than to put off til later and forget lol
It also gives me a bonafide excuse when it’s for work
 
1553 has occasionally problems with the soldered connections on back of 4mm sockets. these are paralled in with the 3 pin socket.a quick dab of solder cures.

Have you done this before? Any idea on difficulty level? Do you know which exact joint fails?

Cheers!!
 
1st port of call is the 4mm sockets. before opening the case, give them a rub with a 3.5mm socket screw re-thread tool, clear any muck. if no joy, need to be quite delicate in opening the case. first, remove the front stick on label. screws under this. then remove batteries and undo screws in top/bottom of case. gently open case like an oyster shell, and unplug the ribbon tape to the front panel. you then see the connections at the back of the 4mm and plug lead sockets. they just paralled up anf each has a wire to a post on the PCB. check for dry joints. quick solderthen reassemble.
 
1st port of call is the 4mm sockets. before opening the case, give them a rub with a 3.5mm socket screw re-thread tool, clear any muck. if no joy, need to be quite delicate in opening the case. first, remove the front stick on label. screws under this. then remove batteries and undo screws in top/bottom of case. gently open case like an oyster shell, and unplug the ribbon tape to the front panel. you then see the connections at the back of the 4mm and plug lead sockets. they just paralled up anf each has a wire to a post on the PCB. check for dry joints. quick solderthen reassemble.

The wiring from the 4mm jack to the PCB had completely broken off when I found it so who knows how I was getting continuity at all. Soldered back on and all seems well now.

Thanks mate, if our paths ever cross I owe you a beer or 3!
 

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