Which Multimeter?

[telectrix]

They mainly use it for checking voltage on cables. Checking the amp fuses in alarm panels, they are smaller than the ones in a FCU. I’ve seen them use it on mains. But I would rather buy something worthwhile as I want to use it for continuity etc when doing my testing.

for "serious" testing, you need a MFT with the ability to null out the leads. buy a cheap multimeter for what you need now, and save pennies for a MFT as and when you need one.

 

[PEG]

Yep,and to be fair,the above,is good advice,too.
Or.....get both,and drop some other expenditure? i cannot think of one,extravagant device,i regret buying.....lots of other things,but not kit.

Christmas is coming....don't rule out buying and wrapping it,and giving it to yourself.

Many years ago,i did this with a Snap-on Road Chest i ordered from the USA...it come in November,and i wrapped it in paper,on it's pallet....even carrying it in to me parents lounge,all ready for xmas day?

I've never been more excited....and i bought it?

 

[Mark Wright]

City and Guilds say not to use Multimeters because A) If you have it on the Wrong setting its dangerous. B) It can't produce the 4-24V needed for continuity testing.

On YouTube you see various video mainly US using cheap multimeters and they say yep this continuity reading is about right.

I had some cheap multimeters around but Continuity Testing Ohms they are well out compared to a Proper Megger Low Resistance Ohmmeter anyone got any comments on this?

 

[Mike Johnson]

I have a Testo 760-1 which seems to always agree with my Fluke 1663 so I am happy with it. The only downside is the purpose made case is not big enough for the instruction manual?

 

[Mark Wright]

I have a Testo 760-1 which seems to always agree with my Fluke 1663 so I am happy with it. The only downside is the purpose made case is not big enough for the instruction manual?

I saw a video by JW and his "British Telecom" multimeter gave quite a close reading to his Low Resistance Ohm meter, so maybe some of the more expensive meters give better readings.

 

[pc1966]

If you are doing electrician work then #1 priority is a voltage tester - something simple and reliable to do that one job that can save you skin.

If buying a multimeter then get one that is at least 300V CAT-III safety rated, otherwise you have a serious risk of it exploding in your face if you have an accident involving an energised system and a mistake in the use of ohms/amps instead of volts. You can get that for £80 or less. GS38 also reccomendes fused test probes, handy if you make the even-worse mistake of it being plugged in to a non-fused 10A range...

If you want to spend more then it is worth saving for a good MFT that can do high voltage insulation testing and medium current continuity testing. I have a 'simple' Megger that will do those bought for electronics work where I needed the HV resistance side, but for a little cost more just get a MFT in the first place! It will add the two other essential tests you will need as a sparky:

• Prospective Fault Current
• RCD Trip time/current

I got a DiLOG DL9118 and it seems OK, might have been better to have saved a bit more for the equivalent Megger, but for the small amount of use I make of it, it is fine. I also have a Fluke 179 multimeter which is a great and accurate bit of kit and invaluable for electronics, but not nearly as useful for electrician duties!

TL;DR don't buy a £10 multimeter.

 

[Mike Johnson]

You can't make a mistake with the Testo 760 multimeter, there is no dial and it automatically detects what you are testing: digital multimeter - https://www.testo.com/en-UK/testo-760-1/p/0590-7601

 

[pc1966]

You can't make a mistake with the Testo 760 multimeter, there is no dial and it automatically detects what you are testing:

That looks really smart, also has good enough rating CAT IV 300V & CAT III 600V and available for less from one of the forum sponsors:

Testo 760-1 Digital Multimeter

Testo 760-1 Digital Multimeter The Testo 760-1 Digital Multimeter is a versatile multimeter that places great emphasis on usability in addition to measuring all regular electrical variables including AC/DC voltage, AC/DC current, resistance, capacitance, and frequency. Diode and continuity...

www.test-meter.co.uk

 

[Mike Johnson]

That's who I bought it from, but as I said in my original post the purpose made case is not capable of taking the instruction manual, although it's smart enough that you don't really need it.

 

[static zap]

Did notice sneaky reference to 760-2 having true RMS ,
and a higher current range !

 

[Mike Johnson]

And the 760-3 does even more.

 

[pc1966]

As far as I can see the main change from 1 to 2 is true RMS and better accuracy & range, and from 2 to 3 it is really the safety rating voltage going up 600V to 1kV and a small increase in some measurement ranges. However there are discrepancies between the web page, comparison sheet, and the instruction manual!

Probably the '2' is the best overall deal if affordable to you.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Yes I realised the 760-2 was the best deal, after I have bought the 760-1.

 

[pc1966]

Oh well, if you are thinking about getting a spare you know now!

 

[Mike Johnson]

Retrospect is an exact science.