Discuss Wireless switching of multiple receivers? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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I'm looking for suggestions, please (as a retired electrician but still active in the voluntary sector). The scenario is a group of 4 log cabins, sleeping accommodation for groups of youngsters and their leaders at an outdoor activities youthwork charity. I've recently completed the electrical installation in these, comprising lighting and very low level background heating, and a 16A socket (so the kids can't plug their chargers in) for cleaners and maintenance purposes. Singles in PVC conduit throughout.
Leadership is now saying that heating is insufficient and groups have been complaining, saying they won't be returning.
I anticipate replacing the 60W tubular heaters with 750 - 1000 W convectors.
Control would include a timer/programmer able to be controlled/over-ridden by a smartphone (or worst case, a remote). All receivers to be operated simultaneously from single device with a single command. Internet not available.
Tamper proof air thermostats are already in place.
Heating to be active (say) 06:00 to 07:30, and 21:00 to 22:00.
The further complication is the LOT 20 business - this is a situation where we simply don't need the extra cost of the fancy individual controls in the heaters, and particularly not the nuisance of tampering by our guests. Probably the way round that is to seek 2nd hand heaters (Gumtree/eBay etc).
Thanks for your thoughts.
 
Theres plenty of small oil filled heaters around that can be app controlled - Rointe Belize series. Just buy grills to go over the heaters which screw to the wall and will stop any tampering.

BTW I dont think you mean a 16A socket?
 
Theres plenty of small oil filled heaters around that can be app controlled - Rointe Belize series. Just buy grills to go over the heaters which screw to the wall and will stop any tampering.

BTW I dont think you mean a 16A socket?
Thanks for suggestion. It's really the remote control aspect that I'm looking for and as mentioned, there's no internet/wi-fi available. Perhaps bluetooth or other radio tech.
Oh, and yes, the sockets are def 16A - the kids won't be turning up with adaptors for those.
 
Thanks for suggestion. It's really the remote control aspect that I'm looking for and as mentioned, there's no internet/wi-fi available. Perhaps bluetooth or other radio tech.
Oh, and yes, the sockets are def 16A - the kids won't be turning up with adaptors for those.
Can you be more specific about what you actually want to do remote wise ?
Also distance ?
 
Oh, and yes, the sockets are def 16A - the kids won't be turning up with adaptors for those.

No, but they can easily hurt themselves poking anything else in there as they are not shuttered sockets and so not normally suitable for such an environment.

Why did you choose those over a normal keyswitched 13A socket when that could have removed this potential danger?
 
No, but they can easily hurt themselves poking anything else in there as they are not shuttered sockets and so not normally suitable for such an environment.

Why did you choose those over a normal keyswitched 13A socket when that could have removed this potential danger?
Interlocked switches; they're mounted externally thus less likely to attract unwanted attention. Have never come across 13A sockets with integral keyswitch, if that's what you're suggesting. The underlying idea is that the kids are obliged to go phone-free while they're with us.
 
60W tubular heaters to heat a log cabin? Yikes, they aren't going to do much.

Are the cabins insulated?
Well aware of that and I certainly advised thus at planning stage; was over-ruled. (They were actually talking 45W; the thinking at that stage was that they might take some of the chill off ... yes, I know ...) Insulated floor & roof, walls solid wood, rather similar to post #12 of Log cabins. - https://www.electriciansforums.net/threads/log-cabins.198698/
I'm planning a trial to determine inside/outside temp differential and rise time for a given constant input, and seeing where we go from there.
The concept is to offer something akin to camping for kids who'd be a liability in ordinary tents, but unfortunately marketed as 'cosy camping' which leads to totally unrealistic expectations - so now we warm the planet in mitigation.
 
Interlocked switches; they're mounted externally thus less likely to attract unwanted attention. Have never come across 13A sockets with integral keyswitch, if that's what you're suggesting. The underlying idea is that the kids are obliged to go phone-free while they're with us.

Best value I can think of is from Schneider (white moulded).

Think they're less than £10 in CEF, so probably available for much less elsewhere.
 
Probably the way round that is to seek 2nd hand heaters (Gumtree/eBay etc).

I'd be very wary of fitting second hand equipment, especially for a charity and in an environment with young people.

Should anything happen your public liability insurance may not be too happy about it.

With young people around you obviously are considering things like surface temperature and other risk factors, can you guarantee that second hand equipment will behave as expected?
 
Can you be more specific about what you actually want to do remote wise ?
Also distance ?
Back to the main question : this has been firmed up a bit, and now looks like a central (standard two-channel or pair of single channel) programmer, each output to a radio transmitter, whose receivers will switch heaters, simple on/off, in the individual cabins as a group.
Distance:
  • one group 20m, through about 120mm of solid softwood.
  • one group 80m, through perhaps 240 or 360 mm -- OR 35m through 120mm if the former not feasible.
 
Back to the main question : this has been firmed up a bit, and now looks like a central (standard two-channel or pair of single channel) programmer, each output to a radio transmitter, whose receivers will switch heaters, simple on/off, in the individual cabins as a group.
Distance:
  • one group 20m, through about 120mm of solid softwood.
  • one group 80m, through perhaps 240 or 360 mm -- OR 35m through 120mm if the former not feasible.
Could be another job for (three pairs of) these:
Maybe cheaper options available, but the above should be reliable.
 

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