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Hi guys,

I'm not a sparks so i'm looking for some advice and help on a few issues. I've recently had all my sockets chased back and new switches chased in and some replaced as well as other work.

My first issue. I've had all my sockets moved up a few inches from there original locations to accomodate for a normal height skirting board (i've got the lowest skirts you've ever seen. glorified bit of wood.) This has been fine, other than 1 socket i've been told can't be heightened. What are my options? The sparks has said the cable needs to be replaced with a longer length. I'm only needing to get 3 to 4 inches more from it. Is there anything i can do to get the extra length needed? otherwise having all the others raised was pointless.

Secondly, the big one. Recently since the light switches have been replaced i've seen some strange behaviour.
a) Kitchen lights (4 led's) turn themselves off. Sometimes turn themselves back on as well.
b) Lights in the lounge flicker when the kitchen lights are dimmed. I can recreate this by using the dimmer in 2 other rooms on the same circuit. Strangely all the upstairs dimmer and lights are the same and all work fine.
c) Yesterday, when using a blender (1560w) my fuse controlling downstairs sockets tripped when blending (this is the first time i've used it at this property)
It's worth noting that my kitchen lights seem to be on 2 circuits (4 on one circuit) 3 on another. On the circuit with 3 lights, only one works and the other 2 are faulty at the fitting.

Lastly,
I have had 2 x outside light installed. The sparks has recently fitted 2 TimeGuard outdoor PIR lights. The original owner had a 2 gang switch for 2 way switching of one set of the kitchen lights and (im assuming) a switch for the outside lights they had. Since the security lights have been swapped, the lights wont work when wired up to the 2nd gang of this switch. The sparks has disconnected the 2 way switching of the kitchen lights here as it's just not needed. When i first had them installed they tripped the CU 3 times within the hour. Strangely now they've settled and havn't done it since.

I've uploaded a pic for reference (apologies i'm at work!)

Sorry for the long post!

Any ideas?

kitchenlights.JPG
 
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Pete999

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Hi guys,

I'm not a sparks so i'm looking for some advice and help on a few issues. I've recently had all my sockets chased back and new switches chased in and some replaced as well as other work.

My first issue. I've had all my sockets moved up a few inches from there original locations to accomodate for a normal height skirting board (i've got the lowest skirts you've ever seen. glorified bit of wood.) This has been fine, other than 1 socket i've been told can't be heightened. What are my options? The sparks has said the cable needs to be replaced with a longer length. I'm only needing to get 3 to 4 inches more from it. Is there anything i can do to get the extra length needed? otherwise having all the others raised was pointless.

Secondly, the big one. Recently since the light switches have been replaced i've seen some strange behaviour.
a) Kitchen lights (4 led's) turn themselves off. Sometimes turn themselves back on as well.
b) Lights in the lounge flicker when the kitchen lights are dimmed. I can recreate this by using the dimmer in 2 other rooms on the same circuit. Strangely all the upstairs dimmer and lights are the same and all work fine.
c) Yesterday, when using a blender (1560w) my fuse controlling downstairs sockets tripped when blending (this is the first time i've used it at this property)
It's worth noting that my kitchen lights seem to be on 2 circuits (4 on one circuit) 3 on another. On the circuit with 3 lights, only one works and the other 2 are faulty at the fitting.

Lastly,
I have had 2 x outside light installed. The sparks has recently fitted 2 TimeGuard outdoor PIR lights. The original owner had a 2 gang switch for 2 way switching of one set of the kitchen lights and (im assuming) a switch for the outside lights they had. Since the security lights have been swapped, the lights wont work when wired up to the 2nd gang of this switch. The sparks has disconnected the 2 way switching of the kitchen lights here as it's just not needed. When i first had them installed they tripped the CU 3 times within the hour. Strangely now they've settled and havn't done it since.

I've uploaded a pic for reference (apologies i'm at work!)

Sorry for the long post!

Any ideas?

View attachment 49611
Was the work done bt an Electrician or a Builder? what, if any certification was issued on completion of the works?
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #4
Hi Pete - The work was done by an electrician, and they havn't yet finished the job. But i'm guessing the answers i'm likely to recieve are:

1. Can't do anything about the heightening the plug.
2. Take off all your switches and go back to how it was before.
3. Accept you can't have a light switch for your outdoor security lights.

So i'd rather get other's views ahead of time really.
 
Unfortunately your socket issue is not an easy one to fix properly. you could bury some connectors in a connector box in the wall - thats your quick and dodgy solution. however - this really isnt advisable at all and I wouldn't do that personally. Otherwise you would have to run a new cable from the last socket to that socket and on to the next socket.

As to the switches - it sounds fixable - just needs the right person with the right knowledge to sort it out..
 

Wilko

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Hi - it sounds like you’ve a number of faults. Sorry to say, but your man struggling to move an outlet doesn’t bode well.
 

telectrix

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easy enough to extend cables as long as it's done right. think your sparks may be a Electrical Trainee, wet behind the ears with little practical experience, but that don't matter as long as he's paid niceic £500. now you're his guinea pig while he's learning how to do the job.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #9
Lovely person, great reviews and good intentions. But seems to irk more on the side of "oh well.." then give me options (regardless of cost) to fix it. Was hoping to arm myself with the options and pose them to the sparks on their last visit.
 

James

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Hopefully you agreed exactly what work you wanted doing before they started ideally they have seen the diagram you have posted.
It sounds like you could have a few issues with the electrical works carried out.

I am hoping that it is a proper electrical contractor that is part p registered.
If so, detail your concerns to them in writing asking for these issues to be addressed.
Give the contractor an opportunity to put right whatever is not functioning correctly
If they fail to get it working to the spec agreed then you can take it up with the competent persons scheme they are registered with. I.e. niceic or nappit etc.
Don’t pay the bill in full until this is sorted correctly and testing and certification has been provided.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
Yup there part p registered, they have also asked me for clarification of anything i want done prior to the last visit. They've done 4 or so visits thus far, quick worker, no breaks or lunch. Work was all listed out in the quote. The diagram i just drew up crudely to give others a rough idea tbh for ideas. I have held back on the final payment for now.

So it seems my only option on the plug is to replace the cable. To be fair, that was what i was told.

Could the second issue with the lights potentially be amplified by changing standard switches over to dimmers? A the moment i have pendants throughout with dimmable LED's. And i meet the minimum load for the dimmer with all bulbs used so i don't think it's a kit issue. I am wondering however whether those 2 faulty kitchen ceiling lights could be interferring at all?

I am at a loss with the security light. If you guys were to troubleshoot the seccurity light issue, where would you start?
 
your outside light problem sounds like there is no live feed to the 2nd gang of the switch.
Is there a permanent live at that switch or not?
 

telectrix

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i'd start by identifying which cables were which, then ascertain if they were wired correctly. then alter anything that was wrong.
 

Pete999

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Hi Pete - The work was done by an electrician, and they havn't yet finished the job. But i'm guessing the answers i'm likely to recieve are:

1. Can't do anything about the heightening the plug.
2. Take off all your switches and go back to how it was before.
3. Accept you can't have a light switch for your outdoor security lights.

So i'd rather get other's views ahead of time really.
What Tel said, you never said about certification.
 

telectrix

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1. Can't do anything about the heightening the plug.
2. Take off all your switches and go back to how it was before.
3. Accept you can't have a light switch for your outdoor security lights.


says it all. there are no problems, only solutions.
 

Charlie_

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“i've got the lowest skirts you've ever seen. glorified bit of wood”

You do realise this is a public forum?

Skimpy skirts do tend to have that effect though
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #17
@Barnanby: are you sure your kitchen lights aren't on a smart switch that your unfriendly neighbour is controlling? :) Is there a permanent live at that switch or not?

>> I'd be embarassed to admit that being an IT guy... ;) I believe there is yes.

@Pete999 - The sparks is certified yup, nothing sinister. Maybe just a little new to the trade.

@Charlie_ Rereading that has just made me cringe lol - These electrical issues have got me rattled...
 

Pete999

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@Barnanby: are you sure your kitchen lights aren't on a smart switch that your unfriendly neighbour is controlling? :) Is there a permanent live at that switch or not?

>> I'd be embarassed to admit that being an IT guy... ;) I believe there is yes.

@Pete999 - The sparks is certified yup, nothing sinister. Maybe just a little new to the trade.

@Charlie_ Rereading that has just made me cringe lol - These electrical issues have got me rattled...
Did this "Electrician" issue any form of certificate on completion?
 

Pete999

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@Barnanby: are you sure your kitchen lights aren't on a smart switch that your unfriendly neighbour is controlling? :) Is there a permanent live at that switch or not?

>> I'd be embarassed to admit that being an IT guy... ;) I believe there is yes.

@Pete999 - The sparks is certified yup, nothing sinister. Maybe just a little new to the trade.

@Charlie_ Rereading that has just made me cringe lol - These electrical issues have got me rattled...
Does this "electrician" belong to any of the CP Schemes NICEIC as an example only, you say he is certified.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #21
Any idea why the blender has tripped my downstairs breaker? Annoyingly when the extension was built they took the lounge feed and extended it round the kitchen but never bought it back to the CU (Concrete floors maybe put them off) So when the CU was upgraded this year a different sparks could only throw in a 16amp fuse as opposed to a 32amp. Could it simply just be a matter of to much on the circuit when the blender is running with it's 1560w motor?
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #23
@ Hi Murdoch - I'm in Esher. No skimpy skirts i promise.
@ Charlie - Obviously the skirts...
 

Charlie_

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You definitely need a 2nd opinion, especially if you are holding money back..
Before engaging somebody to rectify his work though you should give him notice of what the issues are and the opportunity to rectify them himself
 
Well I would ask - have you run a jumper to the 2nd gang of the switch from the other gang when you wired the outside lights into that 2nd gang?
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #29
@Murdoch - None yet. Should i ask for any if it's just socket/switch replacements and a security light? I'm not really up with when to request them to be honest. Sparky's not finished the job yet though so nothing as of yet. The sparks hasn't technically finished the job yet, but my plan was to arm myself with some good questioning and recommendations to see what answers i got back when i bring it up.

@Pete999 - NAPIT Membership and insurance. Is it enough for this type of routine domestic work?
 
O

Octopus

@Beefy
so if he's coming back would suggest an email to him with some questions and highlighting some of the "snags" ............ best keep it between you and him for the time being.

As for testing & certs, if new cables have been added / extended then yes I would say a certificate is necessary.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #31
@Murdoch - I think your right, one socket was added additionally and an extension from an original socket to the loft socket was added. I'll keep you posted. Would i be right in simply asking for the switch that controls the security light to be troubleshooted. Sounds like i'm stuck with raising the plug socket due to the majority saying that extending it is a bit dodgy?
 

littlespark

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I don’t think raising the socket height is an impossibility.
If cables come from above, easy to shorten.
If cables come from below, I would think a wooden floor. MFT joint under the floor and a spur up to socket.
Worse case is concrete floor. Just make your joint in the old box and put a very flat blank plate over it.

It does sound like the spark is out of his depth. And his “solutions” make him out to be a bit of a t!t.
 

James

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You definitely need a 2nd opinion, especially if you are holding money back..
Before engaging somebody to rectify his work though you should give him notice of what the issues are and the opportunity to rectify them himself
I'm sure I said something like that on page one. agree whole heartedly.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #34
@littlespark - Thanks. What's an MFT joint sorry?
@James the Spark1976 - You did, which is affirming for me. Cheers..

The reason i've opted to do it this way round. ie. reach out for advice prior to emailing him is that i've already has the answers to the questions in a round about way. Howeverm he has asked me to let him know of any issues prior to the last visit to finish off 2 small pieces of work. However without the electrical knowledge and being able to make suggestions and challenge the reasoning, the email/discussion could be a bit one sided.

I'd like the job to finish with the outstanding issues resolved, however if he turns round and says, "well.. Thats your parts" or " I can do that, but i feel it's outside of the quote and could take days to rectify" or "I can do that, but it's going to be very destructive (even if it's not)" then armed with a little knowledge i can help sway the convo.
 

telectrix

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the socket that you want moving up should not be an issue. joint cables with crimps or soldered joints, heat shrink over, plaster in.
as for certification, should be a MWC ( minor works certificate) issued on completion.
 

littlespark

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MFT = maintenance free termination.
Basically a joint that doesn’t need to be accessed in the future.
Crimps, as @telectrix mentions or spring loaded push in connections.
Screw terminals in the old choc block are not classed as maintenance free
 

123

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MFT = maintenance free termination.
Basically a joint that doesn’t need to be accessed in the future.
Crimps, as @telectrix mentions or spring loaded push in connections.
Screw terminals in the old choc block are not classed as maintenance free
Thank goodness for that, I thought for a moment you had left your MFT under the floor, which would make for rather an expensive job.
 

richy3333

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the socket that you want moving up should not be an issue. joint cables with crimps or soldered joints, heat shrink over, plaster in.
as for certification, should be a MWC ( minor works certificate) issued on completion.
Finally somebody states the simple and obvious. Why can’t this cable be crimped and sleeved. Absolutely no need for MF junction boxes.
 

littlespark

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Ooo. My bad. MFT is multi function tester.
I meant MF, as maintenance free.

It’s only Tuesday and I’m already getting my words muddled
 

Tony Reidy

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Any idea why the blender has tripped my downstairs breaker? Annoyingly when the extension was built they took the lounge feed and extended it round the kitchen but never bought it back to the CU (Concrete floors maybe put them off) So when the CU was upgraded this year a different sparks could only throw in a 16amp fuse as opposed to a 32amp. Could it simply just be a matter of to much on the circuit when the blender is running with it's 1560w motor?
Oh dear that is a bad news your kitchen needs a ring main 32A preferably on it own circuit suggest you get a proper sparks in to see how little damage he can do to rectify this
 

Charlie_

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Rubbish. If they are claiming that they are liars. There is no such thing as part P registered. Part P is a building regulation not a qualification. Try asking for their registration certificate to call their bluff.
If somebody is on a register of competent part p electricians then aren’t they part p registered?
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #51
Well i'm confused. :)

@ sparkyAndGeorge - (Great name by the way! - It's the MCB at the CU that governs my downstairs sockets (16amper apparantly as the ring was never extended back to the CU.
 
Perhaps you could tell us what advice you need now? The socket would be easy enough to reposition, the lights needs further investigation by somebody on site we can only speculate from here. Does the blender trip the mcb on another circuit or just that one?
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #54
I havn't checked it to be honest. I'll give it a go on another circuit and find out. Can the lighting faults be isolated via testing aparatus? I take it most sparks would have the tools to do this in the van. Trying to understand the process of how one narrows down where it occurs so i know what to expect in terms of work and time for any further spend. If the problem is existing and has been amplified by the addition of my new switches and sockets then i'm assuming this troubleshooting would be deemed additional works for quoting? What do you think?
 
O

Octopus

What do I think ...

Address your issues in writing to your spark .....
 
I’m an approved part p electrician and and also registered as such..
As I keep saying part P is a building regulation not a qualification.

Perhaps you would show us a copy of this qualification that you claim to have!

All electrical work must be carried out in accordance to part P of the building regulations. But there is no part P qualification as such.
 
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Charlie_

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Rubbish. If they are claiming that they are liars. There is no such thing as part P registered. Part P is a building regulation not a qualification. Try asking for their registration certificate to call their bluff.
As I keep saying part P is a building regulation not a qualification.

Perhaps you would show us a copy of this qualification that you claim to have!

All electrical work must be carried out in accordance to part P of the building regulations. But there is no part P qualification as such.
I am part p registered not qualified..
I suggest you get your terminology right before you start calling people liars..
What is it you mean?
Part P Qualified or registered??

I am not claiming to be part p qualified, I said I am part p approved/registered..
Please read and understand what I have written before you twist it into something else
 

Charlie_

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As I keep saying part P is a building regulation not a qualification.

Perhaps you would show us a copy of this qualification that you claim to have!

All electrical work must be carried out in accordance to part P of the building regulations. But there is no part P qualification as such.
Not all electrical works !
 

davesparks

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I am part p registered not qualified..
I suggest you get your terminology right before you start calling people liars..
What is it you mean?
Part P Qualified or registered??

I am not claiming to be part p qualified, I said I am part p approved/registered..
Please read and understand what I have written before you twist it into something else
The point he is trying to make is that you are registered with a CPS (competent person scheme) to satisfy the requirements of approved document P of the building regulations.
 

Charlie_

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The point he is trying to make is that you are registered with a CPS (competent person scheme) to satisfy the requirements of approved document P of the building regulations.
His point was that anybody claiming to be part p approved/registered is a liar.
I am on a government register of approved part p electricians.
 

davesparks

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His point was that anybody claiming to be part p approved/registered is a liar.
I am on a government register of approved part p electricians.
I didn't know that the government kept such a register, where can this be found?
 

James

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I didn't know that the government kept such a register, where can this be found?
Here
Home - http://www.electricalcompetentperson.co.uk/

The Registered Competent Person Electrical single mark and register went live on 30th June 2014 and was officially launched in Parliament on 2nd July 2014. It was created following an agreement between all Government-approved electrical Competent Person Scheme Operators in England and Wales.

The single mark and register aims to raise awareness of electrical safety in the home by simplifying the task of finding and checking a competent, registered electrician.

All electrical enterprises listed and permitted to display the mark are registered to undertake work on domestic electrical installations under the Competent Person Scheme, introduced by the Government, to allow individuals and enterprises to self-certify that their work complies with the Building Regulations.

These electricians meet strict qualification requirements and their work is regularly assessed by their electrical Competent Person Scheme Operator to ensure their ongoing competence. The list of Government-approved electrical Competent Person Scheme Operators, their requirements and how they are authorised can be found on the Gov.uk website.

This mark and register is open to all competent, registered electrical installers in England and Wales undertaking work for householders.
 
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  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #70
Thought i'd check back in with an update.

So the sparky has come back and has advised that they can heighten the plug that is low to the skirting board. Would mean pulling a board, fitting an electrical fitting/box and extending the cable from there.

In regards to the lighting, they've discussed looking at the original kitchen light wiring to see if they can spot the issue. However as the issue only happened after the works my moneys on the new switches potentially bringing an old issue to the surface. So it seems a little fruitless.

In regards to the issue of my downstairs sockets tripping due to the use of my blender, there telling me that it's likely something i should learn to live with due to having older wiring. I mentioned about completing the downstairs socket so it could be upgraded from a 16amp circuit to a 32 amp circuit but was told that it could be a lot of work and not to worry about it and maybe consider it in the future if i knocked the lounge through.

And in regards to the outdoor PIR security lighting, rather than troubleshoot the current wiring, probably best to spur off a feed from an upstairs plug socket and run the security lighting from that.

After the last visit to explain all the above to me, they also replaced my downstairs WC light (which is also connected to the extractor fan just for info) And now i find that every 1 in 10 times i turn this light on it flips my downstairs lighting circuit.

Any advice? :)
 

Wilko

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After the last visit to explain all the above to me, they also replaced my downstairs WC light (which is also connected to the extractor fan just for info) And now i find that every 1 in 10 times i turn this light on it flips my downstairs lighting circuit.
Hi - it needs testing, but sometimes this can be caused by a failing light switch’s contact bounce. Or not :) .
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #72
@Wilko - Thanks for the reply. Would this likely still be the case when using an RF light switch as opposed to a traditional mechanical switch though?
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #73
Thanks for all the replies guys it's been super helpful to hear everyones tips and opinions. I think a lot of you were in agreeance that i let the sparky advise on the fixes and give them an opportunity to rectify the situation. It dosn't seem to me that there particularly interested in troubleshooting the issues. Do you think it's time to part ways and get someone in with more experience to finish the job? And if so is anyone near my neck of the woods (Surrey) that could help?
 

Wilko

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@Wilko - Thanks for the reply. Would this likely still be the case when using an RF light switch as opposed to a traditional mechanical switch though?
Hi - you are right, RF light switch failure modes likely to be different. If this is an RF light switch that causes a trip then the receiver unit would be on the list of suspects, along with a wiring fault.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #75
@Wilko - Yeah, That's what i thought. What's weird is that the other new switches on the same circuit have never tripped the downstairs breaker but turning on the new WC light with the new switch does. The bulb has gone from 8.5w to 24w LED (dome light) for what it's worth. I have the same setup in the upstairs bathroom and it's been solid. It feels like the new switch and light have either tapped into an existing wiring issue or tat they've been badly installed recently.
 

Matthewd29

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After reading the original comments I was willing to give the spark the benefit of the doubt because the work wasn't finished but the solutions they have provided for your problems are pretty poor in truth it actually sounds like they don't particularly know whay they are doing or how to go about fixing what could be a simple problem
 

Pete999

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Hi Pete - The work was done by an electrician, and they havn't yet finished the job. But i'm guessing the answers i'm likely to recieve are:

1. Can't do anything about the heightening the plug.
2. Take off all your switches and go back to how it was before.
3. Accept you can't have a light switch for your outdoor security lights.

So i'd rather get other's views ahead of time really.
The socket that your Electrician said "can't be heightened" the cables come up from the floor, correct so far? if yes is the floor a solid floor, or of wooden construction? if wooden can the boards be taken up? if yes then any decent Electrician could extend the cables under the floor using a MF JB (Maintenance Free Joint Box) doesn't sound like a difficult job. The other two faults may look serious to you but a simple fix can be found, is this Electrician a member of any of the CP Schemes, NICEIC as an example? sounds like a bit of a chancer to me.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #79
After reading the original comments I was willing to give the spark the benefit of the doubt because the work wasn't finished but the solutions they have provided for your problems are pretty poor in truth it actually sounds like they don't particularly know whay they are doing or how to go about fixing what could be a simple problem
That's the same conclusion i've come too. I think there comfortable with the basics but not interested in scratching the surface when a problem or issue needs to be rectified. I'm now on the hunt for someone that has some troubleshooting acumen.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #80
The socket that your Electrician said "can't be heightened" the cables come up from the floor, correct so far? if yes is the floor a solid floor, or of wooden construction? if wooden can the boards be taken up? if yes then any decent Electrician could extend the cables under the floor using a MF JB (Maintenance Free Joint Box) doesn't sound like a difficult job. The other two faults may look serious to you but a simple fix can be found, is this Electrician a member of any of the CP Schemes, NICEIC as an example? sounds like a bit of a chancer to me.
That's right the electrician has suggested after me presenting the solutions from this post that indeed the boards could be lifted and extended that way. The other 2 faults are my main concern and is really ruining as being able to enjoy our new property. The downstairs WC (With extractor fan on the circuit) tripping the downstairs lighting circuit 1 in 10 times it's turned on is a pain. And the flickering of lights on the downstairs circuit is a pain. Although i may have a solution for that.

Lastly, having no on/off switch for the security lighting is a drag as there's no way to override it when keeping it on for a prolonged period of time. (Timeguard units)
 

Pete999

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That's the same conclusion i've come too. I think there comfortable with the basics but not interested in scratching the surface when a problem or issue needs to be rectified. I'm now on the hunt for someone that has some troubleshooting acumen.
Where are you based? a member near you may offer to help
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #83
Where are you based? a member near you may offer to help
Hey Pete999 - I'm based in Esher, Surrey. Just looking for someone who knows there stuff for this piece of work. The majority has already been done which is good!
 

telectrix

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and mine. i now got solar guru though i know nothing about solar except it 's run by the sun.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #90
Hey guys - Hope it's been a good weekend.

Does anyone have any contacts or know anyone that can help me remediate the job. The most important thing is that i get someone competent with some solid experience to see out the end of the job. If anyone has any suggestions of electricians that may be interested, i could drop them a DM and see if there interested?
 
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Thanks for visiting ElectriciansForums.net, the worlds largest electrical and electricians community. This area of the website is for those who are looking for electricians jobs, electricians mate jobs, or electrical apprenticeship schemes. We have opened up our website to the world after being UK-only for more than 10 years. We now have jobs posted to the forum for domestic, industrial and commercial electrical work from all over the world. Anybody is welcome to register to our forum for free. You can post jobs you have going, or know of. And you can also post to the forum if you're looking for employment or recruitment. Full or part time. Just let us know the full details of the job you have on offer or are looking for and we'll do the rest.

Also note that we have tiling jobs, and plumbing work too.

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