Discuss Am I wrong to install 28 downlights? in the Australia area at ElectriciansForums.net

M

mylocalplumber

Hello sparkys,

I just bought the hbouse to raise the family and doing alot of the work myself. Before you start, I wouldnt dare mess around with the electrics apart from maybe running some cable to save costs for sparky.

Know I had planned to to install downlights in living room and kitchen which is open planned (now I've knocked the wall down.)

I just assumed downlights were the fancy, good looking way to go and have always liked the look.

Now I'm hearing otherwise so..please..can you convince me not to go for them.

I am buying 50w Aurora lights..and was planning to have 20 of these lights off a 400w 3 point dimmer - thats not gonna happen is it?


Now all these lights will be adjustable so that solves the shadow/beam problem doesnt it?

Lastly - should I get sepereate transformers for each light or can I run a few off one transformer?

Gonna talk to my sparks next week but I'm just impatient.

Know I've asked some silly questions but go easy on me eh?
 
Speak to your sparks before you start running any cables in as you could be wasting your time and money.

Personally I'm looking at staying away from the Low Voltage down lights now, the advances in the LED technology is fantastic and even if the dimmable LED stuff isn't the cheapest yet its getting there, and the GU10 mains voltage stuff is the easier/cheaper to retro fit further down the line as you won't need to change anything other than the bulb.

Another thing against the Low Voltage stuff is you may need to spend a fortune on a dimmer. I generally find if you have 400W of Low Voltage Halogens, you need an 800W dimmer. Have never had a problem with the mains voltage ones though.

Personally I'd strongly think about the LED option, it will be much cheaper to run and maintain but it's going to be a big outlay on lamps.
 
hmmmmmmmm

50w X 20 = 1000w
the 400w dimmer is to small

re-transformer

you can either get a spider transformer (prewired with multiple cables going out from it (DO NOT CUT THE CABLE SHORT, IT WILL BLOW THE TRANSFORMER)

I would suggest separate transformers, if one blows, you loose 1 light
 
I think that you better get your spark in to help you - and also I'd be thinking about have multple switchesso you don't have to have too many on at once.
 
second above posts. GU10 fittings with LED lamps. i would not use LEDs of less than 5 watts (each), as anything less will not give sufficient light. with halogen spots, it's not only the running costs, but heat dissipation is a major headache especially if some muppet has stuffed insulation above.
 
Fit as many GU10 enclosures as you like. Spend £300 on LED lamps, at least your cieling won't get too warm!

Seen many transformers wrongly installed/overloaded. Great source of ignition!

LED lamps are cost neutral after 12 months due to using much less energy than standard GU10s.

Don't go below 4 watts as the quality of light output is far from impressive. Link below detailing T8 tube comparison. Gives info on watt/lux/lumen values.

Some LED lamp manufactureres make elaborate claims on what their lamps will do. I would guess a decent Wholesaler will let you try a sample if you are going to buy 28 lamps from them.

http://apps1.eere.energy.gov/buildings/publications/pdfs/ssl/t8_replacement-lamps.pdf
 
You know me too well Tel I hate these blithering things. Until the advent of LED I never could understand how these things got approval to be fitted into a solid ceiling without ventilation or a large space above them.

They were Halogen lamps and to me it was literally putting mini heaters into a ceiling ....................and don't start me on the light spread lol
 
HALERS Evolved need I say more? go to their web site n see the cost/life savings the light output is as good if not better than 50w gu10 they are dimmable and 7year warranty Cost a fair bit to start with but over the years of no lamps and a fith of the power soon saves dosh
 
Thanks for all your replys,

Well I'm still not decided but have given myself these options. Oh and the downlights will cover a living area into dining area and kitchen.

1. Have pendants and uplighters in living and dining area and downlights in kitchen and bathroom
2. Fit 12v downlights for whole area
3. Fit 240v downlights for entire area and upgrade to led when cheaper.
4. Fit pendant in living room, downlights in dining area and kitchen.

I took down old lath and plaster ceiling so its a good opportunity to have downlights installed but if pendants are way forward it would save a bit on cost

Cheers
 
go down the GU10 SMD led route the new ones(they look like little flat squares with yellow dots when you look at the lamp and are very bright) bit expensive to start with but it they get left on by the family at least they wont eat the elec.
 
thats a bit of a massive comment Pendants are the way forward isnt whats being said Lighting is a very personal issue as it can enhance the ambiance of a room and different lighting can create different effects its all down to personal preferance and use of areas
Kitchens require a more direct light when in use BUT as yours seems by description to be visable then a nice glow under worktop LED set would look fantastic same about the dining area nice and romantic some nights bright when being used for doing the paperwork of jigsaw
Dont make a descision after asking a forum where
1 you dont know anyone
2 noone has seen your job
3 there isnt a complaints box for taking advice ( be it good or bad ) from a bunch of nutters sat by their P.C.s
4 would you be happy telling the MRS "the forum I just joined and asked about lighting said XXXXXXXX" ? Cos I know exactly where my wife would shove my means of access to said forum

Take the mrs out to look round some of the new show homes do it around 3 -4 pm then have a look at the way they are lit ( I mean the BIG POSH ones) you may find insperation there
 
Don't forget the lights in the kitchen come under part P.

Best get your sparky round (if he exists) and talk through the options. You say you've taken the lathe and plaster ceiling down - is it still down or have you put a new ceiling up?
 
I agree with mogga - it's too simplistic to say a certain kind of fitting is 'right' and another is 'wrong' without considering what effect you're trying to achieve, size shape and usage of each room, style of decor, budget etc.
 
Hi,

Thanks again for responses especially yours mogga,

The ceilings are still down so makes it easier to fit downlights.

My Mrs is happy with pendants but shes never fussed with anything! lucky me eh?

Anyway, Ive made a decision. The living room will have a pendant light and two uplighters between fire place.

Then 240v downlights in dining and kitchen. two uplighters in dining area between old blocked up fireplace.

Then a 3.5m of led strips behind a vertical rad for effect.

The living room will have a 3 gang dimmer for pendant and uplighters

The dining area will have a 600w 1 gang dimmer (for 9x50w halogens) and 1 gang 600w dimmer for kithchen (6x50w halogens) and led strips.

Now the spark I have is going to run cable and test terminlas but I will be fitting lights, socket covers and switches.

I'm happy with him but he seems to agree with everything I say which is why im on here.

I dont take anyones, who I dont know, advice as gospel but I like to get an overall feel of whats going on. Ive worked bloomin hard for this house so excuse me if i sound a bit OTT :)

Cheers
 
600w 1 gang dimmer (for 9x50w halogens. ​i'd go for a 1000w dimmer here.
 

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