I have old wiring in my bathroom.
It has two black wires and one red. Also some exposed wire which seems to be coming from the two black wire sleeves
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I want to fit a new light. From my understand i have brown = live yellow = earth blue = neutral. Which wires do i put where. On the old light brown goes to one of the blacks and blue to the other. So i can assume the black with the current blue is neutral? Then I would assume i wire the red wires into my new brown? However, on the old light the brown goes into the other black, and the red doesnt seem to connect anywhere. If i put the red into my new brown. What do i then do with the black thats left it cant be earth can it? Maybe there is no earth. Also what about the other copper looking wires.

I am guessing this maybe down to switching or something. I know the light switch that runs the bathroom light is a double switch and the landing light can be switched from the landing switch and a switch at the bottom of the stairs. However, the bathroom light doesnt have two switches - just one.

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I have old wiring in my bathroom.
It has two black wires and one red. Also some exposed wire which seems to be coming from the two black wire sleeves
View attachment 63895View attachment 63894

I want to fit a new light. From my understand i have brown = live yellow = earth blue = neutral. Which wires do i put where. On the old light brown goes to one of the blacks and blue to the other. So i can assume the black with the current blue is neutral? Then I would assume i wire the red wires into my new brown? However, on the old light the brown goes into the other black, and the red doesnt seem to connect anywhere. If i put the red into my new brown. What do i then do with the black thats left it cant be earth can it? Maybe there is no earth. Also what about the other copper looking wires.

I am guessing this maybe down to switching or something. I know the light switch that runs the bathroom light is a double switch and the landing light can be switched from the landing switch and a switch at the bottom of the stairs. However, the bathroom light doesnt have two switches - just one.

View attachment 63893
First, I am assuming that the "old" light was working OK until you decided to replace it. With that established we can then conclude that the red cables are in fact permanent live wires that simply need to be left in a connector on their own as they currently are.
Put a little tape or something on the black wire connected to the brown on the "old" light. This will be your switched live and will be connected to the brown on your new light. The other black wire goes to the blue on your new light.
It would appear the "old" light was a type of recessed fitting. This means you have plenty of room to fit a junction box on the 3 T&E cables. The "exposed" wires are in fact earth wires which should be sleeved, but as they are already twisted together I would advise you tape them up in green/yellow earth tape and check their connector screws.
You can then connect a little fkex(brown blue, green/yellow) to the junction box conne tors on one end and onto the new light fitting on the other. Finally, and I, m sure you won't need the reminder but make sure the power is off before you proceed
 
It looks like the existing light is incorrectly connected, the live should connect to the single black [the switched live which should be marked with red sleeve in accordance with those wiring colours] and the neutral should connect to the two blacks which are the looped neutrals.
 
First, I am assuming that the "old" light was working OK until you decided to replace it. With that established we can then conclude that the red cables are in fact permanent live wires that simply need to be left in a connector on their own as they currently are.
Put a little tape or something on the black wire connected to the brown on the "old" light. This will be your switched live and will be connected to the brown on your new light. The other black wire goes to the blue on your new light.
It would appear the "old" light was a type of recessed fitting. This means you have plenty of room to fit a junction box on the 3 T&E cables. The "exposed" wires are in fact earth wires which should be sleeved, but as they are already twisted together I would advise you tape them up in green/yellow earth tape and check their connector screws.
You can then connect a little fkex(brown blue, green/yellow) to the junction box conne tors on one end and onto the new light fitting on the other. Finally, and I, m sure you won't need the reminder but make sure the power is off before you proceed
Thanks. Yes the light was working ok
1) I get all of that. So I remove the yellow wire from the new connector box. This allows me to put the red wire into the middle slow on its own
2) Tape black wire connected to old brown. Remove from old connector box and connect it to the new connector in the brown slot
3)Remove other black wire and put it into blue on new box
4) The light fitting comes from the loft so lots of room. What do you mean by ' fit a junction box on the 3 T&E cables'
5) Exposed wires I can tape. There is no connector screw they weren't connected to or touching anything.
6) You can then connect a little fkex(brown blue, green/yellow) to the junction box conne tors on one end and onto the new light fitting on the other. Not sure what this means
7) If i remove the new yellow earth to allow for the red what do i do with this wire?
 
For Gods sake stop right now and please call in an electrician. What you're suggesting with the permanent live red cores will make the whole fitting live and most likely kill you or someone else.
No offence intended but I think you're out of your depth with this.
Fair enough. One is coming tomorrow to quote for some other work anyway so I will ask him. Slightly concerned now Ive got a light thats been in my bathroom for years which is wired incorrectly and live...
 
Hi,if you have a spark visiting,then it is a wise decision to have maybe 30 minutes of his time,to sort things out,
Although in truth,the positioning and tightening of half a dozen wires,is not rocket science.... the assessing of existing arrangements ,and any previous or required safety functions,does warrant specific knowledge.

Unfortunately,the casting of advice,without actual hands-on electrical access,can be problematic.

The three areas where we worry the most,after advice is offered,are

1) It works - but something is still not correct...

2) You get a belt,and get away with a cautionary tale,for your mates,and

3) .....i don't want to mention ?
 
Hi,if you have a spark visiting,then it is a wise decision to have maybe 30 minutes of his time,to sort things out,
Although in truth,the positioning and tightening of half a dozen wires,is not rocket science.... the assessing of existing arrangements ,and any previous or required safety functions,does warrant specific knowledge.

Unfortunately,the casting of advice,without actual hands-on electrical access,can be problematic.

The three areas where we worry the most,after advice is offered,are

1) It works - but something is still not correct...

2) You get a belt,and get away with a cautionary tale,for your mates,and

3) .....i don't want to mention ?
I agree. He’s been and he says
2 blacks together go into my new connector into the blue neutral
Single black (should brown sleeve it)- into new brown
The copper I need to sleeve and connect to yellow on my new connector.
The old red leave in old connector as they are.
 
I agree. He’s been and he says
2 blacks together go into my new connector into the blue neutral
Single black (should brown sleeve it)- into new brown
The copper I need to sleeve and connect to yellow on my new connector.
The old red leave in old connector as they are.
Spot on, but I would add sleeve the bare earths in green/yellow.

I’m sure the visiting electrician also mentioned it, and it’s been stated earlier in the thread, the reds together are permanent live.... it won’t go off when the switch is off. Isolate at your consumer unit.
 
Spot on, but I would add sleeve the bare earths in green/yellow.

I’m sure the visiting electrician also mentioned it, and it’s been stated earlier in the thread, the reds together are permanent live.... it won’t go off when the switch is off. Isolate at your consumer unit.
The consumer unit is a whole other story ? it’s from 1940 and has asbestos fuses. That’s the job he’s quoting for to come and replace the unit and make it safe.
 
and post what he's quoting to fit and how much. we could then advise if he's giving you a good deal. if it's a written quote redact personal details and post it.
 
Not withstanding any of the advice already given, it looks as though you have lichen growing on the cables, in which case you have a damp problem, borne out by the green copper contamination, this needs addressing.
 
Not withstanding any of the advice already given, it looks as though you have lichen growing on the cables, in which case you have a damp problem, borne out by the green copper contamination, this needs addressing.
It’s cobwebs. Price for a new box is 815. That’s a new consumer unit, wiring in a new oven extractor feed, wiring in new ceiling spot lights x 8, and wiring in new under cupboard kitchen spot lights running to main light switch. That includes all materials including lights. Picture of my current unit attached
 

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It’s cobwebs. Price for a new box is 815. That’s a new consumer unit, wiring in a new oven extractor feed, wiring in new ceiling spot lights x 8, and wiring in new under cupboard kitchen spot lights running to main light switch. That includes all materials including lights. Picture of my current unit attached
Lovely vintage gear? but it confirms that any possible tactile mishap,would have less of a tickle,and more like the dude on The Green Mile,with the dry sponge ?
 
That was a very disturbing scene, I'm just glad the perpetrator got his comeuppance in the end. Brilliant film though.

C'mon... who amongst us,having just completed a load of electrical work,and prior to switching the main switch back on,hasn't paused,and said aloud... "...Roll on one!..." ?
 

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Bathroom light - old wiring to new
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Lighting Forum
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