Extending socket fronts & switches

eskimo39 · Mar 16, 2009

Hi, a neighour is installing a stud wall over an existing wall to allow sound proofing to be put in between.

They have asked if I can move all their existing sockets and switches outwards to fit on the new wall, however upon inspection there is not enough wire to allow this.

Will I have to quote for a full rewire or am I able to extend the cables using terminal blocks insite the switch boxes, with an additional 8" of cable to the plate?

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Many Thanks

Spudnik · Mar 16, 2009

Not sure on terminal blocks really unless they will be accessible for inspection at a later date.

I would use through crimps, or better still, solder and heat shrink.

eskimo39 · Mar 16, 2009

TIM77 said:
Cant you pull the back box out slightly and use 75mm screws to fix the socket face.

Thought about that but it is coming out about 150mm to allow soundproofing.

Solder and heatshrink seems possible. Will dust off the old gas iron.

Cheers

DanBrown · Mar 17, 2009

Hey Guys..

Im not sure if soundproofing could be a fire risk as in a bit inexperienced at the min as i dont know what its made up of.. But i'd make sure you test the circuit off after the work has been completed just to make sure the joint has little resistance, as a bad joint leads to heat build-up, and with it been surrounded by sound proofing, may slightly be a fire risk. Just a thaught..

EddieB · Mar 17, 2009

Crimp and forget my friend

pushrod · Mar 17, 2009

you do need to ensure that the sound-proofing is not insulating and so derating the cable .

johnnyb · Mar 17, 2009

If the sockets are on a ring main, you could crimp the end ones and rewire the middle ones and it probably be a quicker job, run new t&e between then at least only 2XS/O,s are crimped.
Lighting i would put on a J/B and put a faster fix dry line box in then if you ever need to get to it again its not a problem, infact you could do that with the S/O,s as well.