Discuss Hardwiring under cabinet lights in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
Then they chuck the non-rewirable, moulded 13A plugtop into the waste basket, with fuse intact and bare copper exposed, ready for an inquisitive kid to retrieve and take to their bedroom.
The 13A socket will often be the most suitable means of connection, since most freestanding/table luminaires are supplied with a moulded 13A plugtop. Whilst 2A or 5A BS546 sockets do offer the benefit of being less likely to be misused for appliances with greater current draw, the downside is, an Ordinary Person will more often than not be the one to cut the moulded plugtop from the luminaire and fit the BS546 plugtop, often badly. Then they chuck the non-rewirable, moulded 13A plugtop into the waste basket, with fuse intact and bare copper exposed, ready for an inquisitive kid to retrieve and take to their bedroom. Months later when the luminaire is moved to a different room, or area without BS546 outlets, it again requires rewiring by an Ordinary Person.
That's ok George... we're in the EU over here... we're not allowed high powered vacuum cleaners !Thousands of examples of bad practice does,'t make it right. Imagine someone, maybe a wife, going up there and deciding it needs a clean, lugging a high power vacuum cleaner up, and plunging the place into darkness with no floor boards there!...
AC/DC???? It all sounds like a highway to hell to me.
Seriously though... if there’s space down the back of the units, just drop the lights down there, driver on top of unit, hidden... and plugged in.
Most of these LED kits come with one driver with a number of outputs. If plugging in multiple lights into one, just make sure the total load on each driver doesn’t exceed the max stated output of the driver.
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