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junior-sparky

Hi All,

I've just been to do a couple of thing s for a friend and she had a jack of all trades doing a kitchen and she wanted me to see what he was doing is ok.

1. He wants to install the cooker hood into the fused spur that also controls the heating. I said that i wouldnt do that incase something trips and you lose both cooker hood and heating if a fault happened during the night.

2. THE PART P PART - he is installing a new electric cooker and top for her and the existing cooker switch is withing 50mm(5cm) of the back hob. He is arguing with her that it is completly fine with that, Im just stating white I believe part P says.

Also there is a 2 Gang socket and the fused spur for the boiler within 300mm of the cooker top (hop).
 
Hi All,

I've just been to do a couple of thing s for a friend and she had a jack of all trades doing a kitchen and she wanted me to see what he was doing is ok.

1. He wants to install the cooker hood into the fused spur that also controls the heating. I said that i wouldnt do that incase something trips and you lose both cooker hood and heating if a fault happened during the night.

2. THE PART P PART - he is installing a new electric cooker and top for her and the existing cooker switch is withing 50mm(5cm) of the back hob. He is arguing with her that it is completly fine with that, Im just stating white I believe part P says.

Also there is a 2 Gang socket and the fused spur for the boiler within 300mm of the cooker top (hop).

1. he's a muppet.

2 .as above.

3. within 300mm is fine as long as heat from the hob will not affect the socket . the plug and flex that's plugged in it, and the FCU and it's associated flex.
 
Thanks for the reply,

I thought the 300mm was set in gold and that nothing could be within the 300mm or is that no watery thing can be 300mm of a electrics etc unless low voltage. I don't have any of my books handy today.

I will tell her that he has to move the cooker switch as it's with 50mm of the back hop ring and it will deff affect that and incase of fire she might not get to it..

The cooker hood will be plugged in at the top of a cupboard with the flex buried into the wall going into the fcu but I'm suggesting not to do that as anything could happen fault wise and you wouldnt wanna lose your heating because of an extra 15 minutes work.
 
the 300mm is a guide only. more usual for sockets close to a sink. 150mm to the side of a hob is OK.
 
Is there a prize for anyone who posts a sentence with "knob" and "part P kitchen fitter" in it?
Oops I just did ;-)


For the avoidance of doubt this post is intended to be interpreted as humour only and is in no way intended to cast doubt on the ability of kitchen fitters; part P registered, Electrical Trainee or otherwise.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I had the same thing with a kitchen company last year,the guy thought he was being clever stating the 300mm was advisory only,however he hadn't heard of the bit in the regs about external detrimental influences and that's what I got him with.After all heat is an external influence and it has to be detrimental to the safe operation and life of anything too close to it.
where there's a will there's a way.
 
...mmmmmm kitchenfitters...they love posing us dilemmas,and,to be fair,have earned some of us a fortune in fault finding...last one i was called in on,had four lollipop rings off the kitchen ring in a 4m x 3m space,my sister had her SFU's wired off plug tops hidden in cupboards,and a friends under-unit LED's were powered via the upstairs RFC...nice mood lighting when the downstairs lights go...but good uns' seem to do well,not seen one on a pushbike...:pirate:
 

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KItchen fitter arguing part P
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